Zs-ondabrain

It's a privately owned, gated off road. No road signs or traffic, No Police or anything of that sort. It's rentable for $250 for 4 hours (I believe) Located in Maryhill, WA on the Columbia river off SR 14? I think. And when you have 20+ people, $250 devided among 20 drivers is only $12.50 each. If you want more info on the road itself, cantact Ken at czcc.org as he knows about renting it and so on. It's a complete dead end road that ends at the top of a hill with enough room for about 25 cars and easily enough room to turn around and go back down. Ya'll missed a hell of a drive and week-end. So if you NW guys can't make it to MSA next year, plan on this trip as an alternative. It's cheaper, closer and more active and personal. If I go next year, I'll bring a better camera for Videos. My car handled beautifully and sounded great, though the wind proved louder than the car as the Mic picked up the slightest breeze. Dave.

Well, you all missed out on an AWESOME weekend of traveling thru the great Northwest in lower Washington and upper Oregon. We went to the Maryhill Winery, Museum, Stonehenge replica and the famous Maryhill Loop Road. Met some great people and friends, drove many a winding road, hit speeds of over 125MPH on SR 14 and the scenery was Breath taking. Go to Youtube and look up " Maryhill Loop Road " ZCCW.org 4/26/09 Here's a link to my 70' 240Z going down the hill. It's little grainy but it's me. Leah was recording so yo get what ya get. I still love her though. Dave

Thanks Arne, and you're right about needing some real software but a new computer is in order first. Like it says though, The write up is there for what ever interpritation you choose. And the pertronix is a great unit but only as good as the chassis it's installed into. The Full listed ignition system above is on the pricey side but when installed is an awesome system as a whole.

I've been asked by many members and non members about my ignition set-up and after writing the info so many times, I figure it would'nt hurt to post the needed info here at CZCC. And now you can send this thread link to others who may be looking for the same info. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I typically put a lot of praise on the Unilite, versus the worn bearings and parts of the stock distributor. Changing the set-up from points to infra-red is always a great idea but it's like putting a New head on an Old block, the head can't perform optimumly because the pistons and rings are worn. The optical pick-ups of the Unitlite and the Pertronix are are basically the same but the the chassis and bearings of the Unilite were built to work in unison with the Mallory infra-red circuit board. So in short the Pertronix is a band-aid over an untreated, infected wound. Here's what I have in my 70' and everything works great. Not to mention that it's pretty easy to wire up. Mallory Unilite, Stock Ballast resistor, MSD 6A, MSD tach adaptor, Mallory Promaster Coil, stock tach. #1) The OEM tach was designed to work around 1.5 ohms, where as the Flamethrower puts twice the resistance in the circuit (3.0 ohms) and the tach strains under the resistance, therefore only working at half it's potencial.. (about 4000 RPM) on occasion #2) The wiring is pretty simple. I use male and female connectors, so that the MSD can be bypassed upon failure, if it should occur. The small red and white wire of the tach adaptor connect to the small red and white of the MSD 6A (and even the 6AL) I've attached a diagram of the wiring that should be pretty easy to follow. I also included a diagram of Just wiring the unilite w/o the MSD. On the Unilite.... Brown wire gets grounded to a clean grounding bolt (I use the bolt of the ballast resistor) Green wire connects to the white wire of the MSD and the tach adaptor Red wire connects to the datsuns green/white wire on the ballast resistor On the MSD.... Ground the Large Black wire close to the MSD unit. Large Red wire gets a (10 amp fuse) and goes to the battery. (draws 1 amp per 1000 RPM) small White to the white wire of the tach adaptor and they both connect to the green Unilite wire. small red to the small red of the Tach adaptor and they both go to the black/white wire that was connected to the stock coils (+) bolt Black and orange sleeved wires go to the Coil (black to (-) and Orange to the (+) The green and purple wires are NOT used, as they are for a crank type sensor. #3) Will this work on my stock 240Z tach? This all works on the Stock Tach. The Promaster coil is rated at 0.60 ohms but I've Never had an issue and I know for fact that the needle will swing to 8000RPM (My throttle stuck when I forgot to instal a return spring on the SU's after I installed them. OOPS #4) What are the part numbers and prices?? Mallory Unilite p/n 4763901 w/vaccum advance. $389 at Jegs and Summit Racing. MSD 6A (6200 series) $171 at Jegs and Summit Racing MSD 8910 Tach Adaptor $40 at both Jegs and Summit Racing Mallory Promaster Coil W/ correct Ballast resistor $82 at Jegs If the link does work, go to Jegs and type in promaster coil 29440 and make sure the picture shows the ballast resistor http://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/29440/10002/-1# I use nothing but NGK plugs (BP6ES) gapped at .060 and NGK Blue spark plug wires. You can pick up the plugs and wires from most auto parts stores. The plugs run about $2 a peice and the wires are around $20 to $35 http://www-b.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Nissan/240Z/NGK/Ignition_Wire_Set/19701973/W0133-1625833.html #5) Is it worth it?? Definately worth it. I installed the Unilite 3 years ago and haven't had to touch it once, other than to clean the brass tips inside the cap. I still have the same cap and rotor that came with the Distributor. The rotor has a removable brass arm that can be pulled and cleaned and reinstalled when needed. The total of everything NEW is about $720 before shipping but you now have part numbers and can research them and probably find them cheaper on eBay or elsewhere. I did'nt pay that much because I do a lot of Trade work which results in some great deals from friends and such. If anyone has pertinent info to add to this thread feel free. I did not however, write this thread to be debated or commented on. What you see is what you get, as all the info is true to the best of my knowledge and current as of 4/23/09 Additional charges for tax and shipping will and can be found on the above web-sites. MSD Unilite Promastr Ballast wiring.bmp Unilite Ballast wiring.bmp

The vaccum has nothing to do with the electric fuel gauge. Just remember the the fuel gauges are slow to respond, so as the vehicle moves, the needle will respond accordingly. Both of my Z's do the same thing, and so does my mini van. On the Z's, the more left turns and uphill drives that you do, the higher the reading, as the sender is on the right side of the tank. It also sounds like the trani mounts are tired or loose. And the motor mounts are also likely the cause. Wheel vibration can be transfered to the motor and trani just as easy. When's the last time the wheels were ballanced? Dave

I just dealt with a similar issue with coils, so I thought I'd throw that in to confuse you. Did it work? Ignore it. If you play with the choke and see no difference, that tells me electrical, which leaves the dist. and coil. Check all your connections while you're at it. Dave.

The MSD only draws 1 amp for every 1000 RPM's so I doubt the 6 amps at full throttle has much to do with it. Just for shits and giggles. adjust the dizzy down a little. Try it at 5 degrees and see what that does. Also, the blaster coil has a .700 ohm resistance and the stock unit is around 1.5 ohms (I think) Not likely an issue but there ya go.

It's almost time, ANYONE ELSE going??? Let us know, I hope to see as many of you as possible. Dave

Thanks guys. It was a pretty good birthday. Spend a little bit of it using the shop Vac to clean the broken glass out of my drivers side door. A truck kicked up a rock on the freeway and it shattered my window. Thank god the windows were tinted, or both of us would have been covered in glass and I would have likely ended up with glass in my eyes and crashed the Z. Luckily, the early 260Z window is a direct bolt in. Sent it to my window tint guy and had him tint it to match the old window. So therefore, Window Tinting Saves Lives!! On the plus side, it gave me an excuse to grease all the tracks and guides, and clean the crap out of the drain holes at the bottom of the door. I mowed the lawn, picked up dog poo, used the old weed-eater and set up Leahs new yard swing, all on a Beautiful NW day (about 65-69 degrees outside) Thanks again guys, hopefully this year will be the year I come up with a few more goodies for you guys and your Z's Dave

I LOVE SAUCY, and Ron, those are definately CUP CAKES. Arne, Leah says it's no big deal, cause Leah can remove her teeth at the drop of a hat, or my pants. hehehe And if I can ever convince Leah to allow me to eat cupcakes in bed, I'm all over it. :tapemouth

if I stop eating now, I'll be starved enough to eat anything when it shows up. How about a cupcake instead?

I LIKE CHOCOLATE CAKE AND POLISHED ALUMINUM ENGINE PARTS!!!! And now ya know.

And I really appreciate it. Spread the Gospel Brother, Praise the Dave..

Hate to be the one to say duh.... but what about the Parking light upgrade harness that eliminates the whole problem and gives you brighter lights in the process???? MSA or Motorsport Auto ( www.zcarparts.com ) sell them for about $60. The Harness plugs into the combo switch and introduces a relay into the circuit, eliminating the hi amperage that is killing your fusebox. I know you're new here so you probably never heard of me or my upgrades. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com and I'll give you links and other info on all the electrical upgrades you'll need to get your Z back in shape and ready for night driving again.. Dave. Hey Phil, did ya forget about me already? Don't you have some of my upgrades, and know what they do?

The lower control arm mounts to the crossmember via rubber or Urethane bushings. The control arm bushing is an "Offset" bushing and if installed wrong, will place the wheel wrong. Also, the control arm is stablized by a Torsion rod that mounts to the frame. If he added washers to that, if will push the wheel forward. On each torsion rod, there should be a large washer -large rubber bushing - then the body hole (attached to the frame) then rubber again and then another large washer, followed by a small washer and a large nut. The pics below will show how it should sit. The first is of the right side and the second is of the drivers side. The control arms should sit forward in the center crossmember. Hope that helps, Dave

It's got potential, if you're looking for a long term hobby or a fat piggy bank........ Your Info says "United states" Be more specific and we can help you find the right car. I may be Biast but I'd say go with an S30 instead. We're more prone to help, or rather be able to help you here. JM2CW Dave

Well, you said you replaced the ignition switch, but did you replace the actual White switch that the dash harness plugs into?? There's a 6-pin connector that plugs into a white, round switch, behind the ignition switch (metal chassis) This is what's giving you an issue. On my 260Z, the previous owner tapped the starter wire at the key, and ran it directly to the starter solenoid wire, at the starter and tapped it in ther. This leaves all the stock wiring in place but also allows a hardwire while leaving the Safety crap there to do it's job. I can't guarantee this will work for you but it's a start. Try to replace the white switch first, then do the bypass wire if that fails. Use no less than 16 or 14 gauge wire for that. Dave.

That means your floats are messed up. They are either stuck open or you adjusted them wrong. They will continue to empty fuel into the carbs and air filter and PRAY TO GOD THAT YOU DON'T BACKFIRE WITH ALL THAT FUEL IN THE FILTER.... Order the DVD and educate yourself, I did and now people ask me for help when adjusting or rebuilding their SU's.

Just order the "Just SU's" video from bruce at ZTherapy. Here's the info from the page. http://www.ztherapy.com/products/videos/just_SU.htm And order it from here. www.ztherapy.com It's the best money you'll spend for a do it yourselfer.

Great Idea. Don't forget the "Meeting of the MindZ" weekend in Port Townsend, WA in late Aug or early Sep. Put on by ZCCW. Dave.

Either way, we'd be happy to see ya there. Even for a few hours or so. Bringing the wife? Anyone else???