Zs-ondabrain

After picking up Transmissions all day long, 2 years ago, I felt fine. But later on, while picking up tools, I reached for a Torque wrench and only made it half way back up when my back wrenched in pain. I froze until I dropped to my knees for about 10 minutes. Never had the pain again, so I'm guessing I just pinched a nerve but nothing since. Sorry Enigma, That really sucks. My dad had bone spurs in his feet till they operated. No fun at all. Dave.

All depends on the way you drive, the ride you like and the originality you'd like to keep or don't mind losing. Obviously, Urethane IS stiffer than rubber, new rubber is stiffer than old rubber, and old rubber is squishy and likely decaying. Worn rubber can cause other parts to wear faster than normal. SO the final say so is up to you. Urethane is a great substitute and there is plenty of it for all around your whole suspension. Urethane is also typicaly cheaper than Real NOS rubber parts. let your budget do the talking. And Tom is correct, don't use Urethane on the Torsion rods. There are reports of them snapping under hard steering, but those reports are typically from Racers and Cone dodgers. Dave.

No need for overkill. just keep in mind that the 240z was designed for a 40 amp system. You don't have enough stuff to worry about going to 100 or more amps. the 81' to 83' IR alt will be more than sufficiant, even with the H4's, stereo, etc. I have an 800 watt system, MSD 6AL, Unilite, 100 watt H4's, 55 wat fog/driving lights, power windows and locks, etc, etc. And the 60 amp alt with my Interstate battery works great with no fuss or worries. Dave.

If your voltage regulator is missing and those wires that are spliced, are supposed to go to the VR, then you have an internally regulated alternator. Pull it, take it to your local Auto parts shop and have them test it. If it's bad, have tem do the research and find the exact replacement. Simple. Dave

Exactly!! WHat is this? Grammer School or CZCC? Just answer the damn question if you know the answer. I get where you're coming from but why waste time and space giving the guy crap. He's obviously a kid that uses his "Text Messaging" skills beyond his phone. He'll figure it out when he gets fired from lack of writing skills or something along those lines. Get over it. If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the problem. JMHO.... Anyways, Removing the sidemarkers is only making your small car less visable to others at night. Replace them with something more suitable to your tastes, but don't eliminate them. that's my opinion. Dave.

I've seen them go from $50 to $400, all depending on quality of the assemblies and the need of the buyer.

I like it, it's got that retro 70's thing going on. But I like red better, for obvious reasons. Dave

There are 3 harness's in your 73' Which one(s) are you looking for. Engine harness (from the temp sender to the firewall Dash Harness (from under the dash Body harness (from right side dash to left rear corner

Hopefully, one of these will help. first one is a 70' and the 3rd is a Later 240Z diagram. Dave 70_240z_wiring.pdf full automotive Wiring_Diagram_240Z.zip

""That 3-D "printer" is incredible. It even replicates moving parts."" And the original "Terminator" could'nt even do that.

True, but how much money has the info on this site, saved you? The ultimate question in some places. I'm sure your $10 was put to good use. Dave

I'm sold. Hell, that's pocket change, I'll take 2. In about 10 years....... Does Will know about this one??

John, seeing that you have asked a lot of questions today, have you tried the "Search" button?? It can come in pretty handy when you use it right. As old as your Z may be, might be time to upgrade to a good set of KYB's, Koni's, or any of the other aftermarket struts inserts that are readily available from many vendors here on the site. Like MotorSport Auto. ( www.zcarparts.com ) Dave.

all depends on the optical unit that is being used. If it's a low voltage unit, removing the ballast from the circuit will burn up the electronics of the optical pick-up. The Mallory Unilite will burn up after 10 volts, so a ballast is needed. Not sure on the others. Dave

I am marked as a MONTHLY Donator. For one full year. Good Challenge though. Dave.

Datsun-Parts... Nuff said. Sorry for your trouble. Guess you were one of the UN-forewarned. Sorry, Dave.

OK, now I understand. That one is a P.I.T.A. Just warn it up as suggested. Slide the top into place first, then pull the bottom out to give it enough bend to slide it into place. The slide it forward to get the front tabs under the other plastic trim above the wheel well. Have fun and keep it warm while installing it. Dave.

I'm confused. I've installed dozens of those and never had anything in the way. Just remove the taillight cover, load the panel with speakers, load it in the car, slide it back and into place, lift it a little to get the screws started, after loading the screw clips onto the tabs, screw it down snd crank it up. Dave.

Hey Bruce, I'm working on a set of 3-screw wide tab (bulky adjuster nut) and the needles were a little wobly (bent). I went to swap them out for some narrow tab 3-screw needles and noticed they are different sizes. I searched everything in ZTherapy but couldn't find anything on the subject. Is this common?? I think (if memory serves) the wide tab needles were longer than the narrow set. common? Also, What SU's did the Solid Brass dipsticks come from. Roadster? Picture below show the current progress of my current build. Sorry to hijack the thread but it is SU related. Dave.

Or better yet, if it has SU carbs. Check the "Last Chance" filters inside the Banjo fittings (on the float bowls) to see if they are clogged. If so, try and clean them or flat out remove them for testing purposes. Maybe even put the old carbs back on and try again. What have ya got to lose? Dave.

Time for a valve job or honing of the pistons. Mine does the same exact thing. Bad rings, and valve guides are the colprit. Dave

Awesome, just let me know. Dave.

Could be. First things first, Flush the system. This will knock out any loose crap that may cause blockage. (let's everything move better) Go buy a thermostat (180 should be fine but you can always do a 170 or 175) If you live in a normally warm or hot climate, a fan shroud is almost a must. If you don't have one, get one. (Directs that air where it needs to be) Check the belt and pulley on the water pump. And while you're at it, how much tension does the clutch fan have. The more resistance, the better cooling affect of the fan. These are my own top 4 things to check and do. Your situation may very but you can't go wrong with a good flush, new thermostat, shroud and water pump and fan inspection. Dave. PS. I have an Aluminum Radiator and it NEVER moved past the mid point while sitting in 95 degree Anaheim heat, while stuck in traffic, idling in stop and go traffic, Never. Something to think about.

Just remember that the crap on the surface is what slows you down and causes the most work. By bead blasting, you'll remove the "Crust" that is basically, dirt, grease, baked on hard-water and coolant, and maybe even get some dirt out of the cracks. But try and only do a light "Dusting of the surface" to avoid pitting the aluminum with the Glass bead. The Wet-sanding will remove the rest of the crap and Level the high spots and make the pits and divots, not so deep. Like many others, I've done this a few times and if you've seen my engine compartment, you'll know what I'm talking about. It's very time consuming and I hope your arm and hands are up to the task. Just remember that the more surface you remove, the easier the polishing will be. Dave

And I'll take what ever you don't use. I'm trying to get a few together for my 240 and 260Z. Let me know, Dave