Zs-ondabrain

TOXIC, Very Supportive!! Gary, Like the Title says, "Just for fun" Nough said. rdefabri, All stock on the bottom end, Triple Weber 40DCOE's, Ceramic Coated 6into1 Header, 480/280 'ish stage 2 cam, Mallory Unilite Dizzy, Mallory Promaster Coil, MSD 6AL, 2.5" exhaust and a turbo Muffler. 3:90 R200 diff w/ CV's from a 280ZX turbo, 79' ZX 5-speed. Luv24ds, I could do a burn out like the 455 if I had a puddle to start with as well, ya know? 280~MASTER, That was 2nd gear and no shifting on that run. I was still rolling forward when I put it in reverse, that's what you heard near the end, no gaurd rails but there was a big ditch on that side. Sheriff was too slow to respond, as usual, so try again later. hehehe

70´ 240Z burn-out just for fun Couldn´t help myself and the wife forgot to stop the camera after the burn-out. Enjoy, I did.... English LINK

Picture #1 My 70' and I think that's the Original, I could be wrong The red bolts are 1/8" longer than stock because the stock screws kept trying to strip when tightened down. Picture #2 My 2/74 but the Round top conversion was done so it may be from another Z? Not sure as I don't know the whole history of either car and their P.O's Dave

Try this. http://www.racetep.com/webdiag.html There are expolded diagrams of the 151's and 152's

Before I could help with that, What style of 40DCOE's do you have. I have 151's but I'll almost bet you don't. On the top lip facing the air cleaners, there should be a model no. What are yours?

What's that Brite stuff on the ground? It looks like sun but I haven't seen anything like that for months..... Anyways. Yup, that's a late 260Z early to late 280Z spoiler. You're supposed to have a 240Z spoiler and lower marker lights like mine. Easy fix would be to buy the correct spoiler and new or used (more likely) lower lights. Couple hundred for the spoiler and lights together. Those ARE black connectors under the red paint. Read your PM after I'm done with this post. SHow us some good pics of the triples, intake, throttle linkage and what ever else he sent with the car. You'll need the full set of triples, Cannon or similar intake manifold, Correct throttle linkage, your 260Z came with a electric and manual fuel pump (unless the PO messed with it, so you're good to go there. You'll need to make or set up a fuel delivery hose system and hopefully the triples came with the correct fittings (2 "T" fittings and a single fitting) or 3) "T"s. Lets see what you got before we go too specific. Dave

I hope to have the 260Z done by then and possible find a way to get them both down there. We'll see. Dave

I'd say it's an Internal Spring. The 40DCOE Webers have a spring loaded choke and it it slips or pops off, the pump also falls down. Sounds like it's time for a tear down. Find the spring that "Sprung the coop. ya know?

that's correct see this..... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30868 mine is correct but looks weird cause of the Mallory. the rotor was 180 off. but it's stil the same firing order. Just make sure you put your #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke (put your thumb ober the spark plug hole and as the piston comes up, it should blow air out past your finger) Look at your rotor, mark the outside of the dist. where the rotor is pointing, put the cap on and put the #1 plug wire on that spot. Then wire the rest in place (153624) Counter-clockwise. That should give you a good starting point. Advance or retard from there. That's what I did and it works great. Dave

Yup, sounds like your spring is broke. Take that assembly apart and get it to stand up again. Don't put fuel in the top as I suggested earlier. You've obviously got enough being pumped up there. Fix that piece and try again.

Before you order 2 of them, check the drivers side left rear quarter for the original speaker bracket. If it's there, I'll make you the right side one to match 'em up get you some Hi Fi sound in there. hehehe Dave.

Well there ya go. It's not the rheostat at all. Your parking light circuit is bad. This is why I tell everyone to check the fuses. Put a new fuse in there and try again. If that don't work, check the switch. When you say R/B are you talking red/blue or red/black? Dave.

not sure on the last question but the Parkingl ight fuse is a 15 amp fuse. Minus the outer parking lights and I'd say the dash lights are 1/4 of the original load of the entire circuit.

Do us a favor and Step out of the Car when you turn the parking lights on.... Are the parking lights on, outside the car?? The Parking light fuse is the 3rd fuse down on the right, in the fuse box. You mentioned using the upper right hand fuse to test the lights. I think that fuse is for the right headlight. Just FYI. I know you said you did'nt Unplug anything but it's a 240Z, you need to get under there and check first hand. $^!# happens and usually without you knowing it happened.

There is no real such thing as an OEM speaker for a 36 year old car. BUT Pioneer and Kenwood make an excellent option. The both have a slim style speaker that work great on low wattage radio's. And being thin, they will fit on both sides of the 240Z's rear, even with fuel hoses in the way. Your other option is a "Walmart" generic speaker. Under $10 and low wattage. But it's a generic versus a Pioneer or Kenwood, No warranties implied on how long the Generic will last. So ask yourself this.... "Do I want to have to tear into the rear panel every time the Generic speaker craps out"?? Dave.

OK lets clear up a few things first. To "Crank" means to engage the starter so that the motor is spinning in an effort to start the motor. If you drained the Bowl, the bowl needs time to refill. If you have 40DCOE's, you should be able to unscrew the tops and pour a little gas in there to help. I noticed that you did'nt mention a Fuel pump of any kind. I'm guessing that you have a stock mechanical fuel pump. If you do, it is barely sufficiant but will work. But to get true fuel and performance out of your 40DCOE's, you need an electric Fuel pump with at least 4 pounds of pressure. Most are happy with the Carter fuel pump and it should be mounted near the stock location, near the tank. Being a 73', it most likely has a fuel pump but maybe it's time to check it out and make sure the filters are new or at least clean and putting out the propper amount of fuel. Buy a regular can of starting Fluid and spray all three carbs (all 6 holes) Your plugs should be NGK's and nothing else. Same goes for the plug wires. I've run into the same issue with mine but the above listed seem to work wonders for me. I have.... 70' 240Z L24 w/ an E88 head Manuel fuel pump (Stock) Weber 40DCOE's Mallory Unilte Distributor Mallory Promaster Coil MSD 6AL MSD Tach adaptor NGK wires and Plugs (set the gap at 0.065) As this set-up spits lightning!! With this set-up, I get an easy 25 HP over stock. Great fuel, great spark, great starting. Killer MPG, about 28 on the freeway. Good luck, Dave.

Ouch!!! Now that devotion, or love of a higher power. I only paid $2800 for the whole car when I bought mine over 6 years ago. Actually it's more like White Magic, which in some circles, is Stronger than Black Magic. Either way, Look into my upgrades, they'll work on your US based 240Z and make a world of difference on the lights. And I do ship World Wide. Plus a little more for shipping, of coarse. PM me if you're interested, Dave.

The Sun was also out here but it was still kinda chilly. But Sunny enough that I could bear it and finally instal the New MSD 6AL. Seemed like it took forever cause it was cold. Got her all hooked up and layed a Posi-Patch thru the local intersection, it kicked sideways so I decided to take a left. It was a blast. Wish I had a spot like you, to take a decent "Scenary Shot" Great Pictures Randy!! Dave

Actually Mike, You might know him. His name is Ken and he lives in Port Orchard. He drives a Beautiful Cream Yellow 240Z. He was at Golden Gardens with us last year. Maybe, maybe not. Gary Saling is interested in one of them as well as he really needs a new dash. Gary's car is a 71 and the dashes are both 72's but I think Gary is willing to comprimise at this point. Dave. Kens pics below

Use Page 24 of the PDF above. Orange to Coil (+) Black to Coil (-) Red to Black/white wire from the coil White to the wire from the neg wire from the coil. The Purple and green are not used. The E12-80's © wire is the one connected to the white wire The ( wire on the E12-80 is connected to the Red MSD wire and the Black white from the Coil Put a Jumper between the 2 wires on the Ballast resistor. The E12-80 doesn't need it. You will need an MSD Tach Adaptor. It's red wire to the Small red or the MSD box and the White to the White MSD box I think the above is correct but use the PDF as a guide.

It's easy to turn your sidemarkers into blinkers. Connect a wire to the Blinker wire from the front markers (green/red (L) & green/black ® Disconnect the black ground wire on your sidemarkers and connect the black wire from the sidemarker to the Turn signal wire noted above. The sides will blink in tandom when the parking lights are OFF and they will blink in a "Flip-Flop" when the Parking lights are ON. Just MAKE SURE the sidemarkers are isolated from the body, by using the rubber seal. Use an ohms meter to make sure the screws are not touching the metal of the sidemarker as well. Leave the ground coming from the engine harness hanging, it's no longer needed. It's this easy. Dave.

That actually sounds pretty damn familiar. ME - "Hunny, I found a motor and tranny in Monroe for only $400" Wife - "Isn't that a lot of Money?" ME - " Nope, it's a totally rebuild, low miles 260Z motor with a rebuilt tranny" Wife - "Can we afford that right now" ME - "Yup, Remember all those harness's I just built? I'll even have money left over" Wife - "Okee Dokee, it's Your money, you earned it and if you think you can afford it, Go for it" Me - "Great, I love you, I'll be back in about 2 hours, hopefully" 3 hour later............ I pull up behind my buddy who is driving a tow truck, with the whole damn Z and she's looking out the window with THAT look on her face. ME - "UH.... Hi hunny.....?" Wife - "What the hell is that?" ME - "Our new 260Z????" on my knees... "PLEEAASSEE, Let me keep it, it followed me home" Wife - "HOW MUCH??" ME - "The car was only $150" Wife - "I thought you said $400?" Me - "I did, the motor and tranny IN THE CAR was $400 and the rest of it was another $150" Wife - "Fine, you can keep it, Smart arse. But you OWE me a full back massage and dinner away from the kids" Me - " Wait a minute, How do I....... Yes dear" I WUVVVV YOU!!!! Wife - " Shut up, you weirdo, and get off your knees, the neighbors are watching" YES dear.........

The white wire that goes to the starter connects to the Amp meter and the fusebox. My guess is that the wire is grounded near the fusebox or at the amp gauge. I've seen it happen before. The insulator on the Amp guage wears out and the post that holds the white wire, contacts the frame or housing and smokes the wire. You should have an inline fuse or fusable link on the white wire, at the starter. Here's how to find where the short is. Find where the white wire comes thru the firewall, there should be a single connector, up near the underside of the dash, that connects the white wire to the Dash harness. Disconnect it right there. Use and Ohm meter to find where it's grounding by grounding one of the test leads and touching the other test lead to the white wire coming from the firewall. If the meter moves, the grounding is between the connector and the starter and easily replaced. If the nothing happens when you test that wire, test the other connector that goes up into the dash. If the meter moves, the wire is grounding up in the dash somewhere. Reach up there and disconnect the white wire from the Amp gauge. This is harder because I think you'll need to remove the glove box in order to reach the connections back there. If you find that the problem is at the Gauge, you'll likely need to replace the Amp gauge. The white wire that comes away from the ampgauge goes to the fusebox, so if the meter appears to not be the problem, then the issue is between the amp gauge and the fuse box. There are a lot of sharp edges in the 240Z, to cut into wiring, and hands if you're not carefull. Dave.

1) When we go out to dinner, I park the car wher I can see it while dining. 2) I use the drive thru rather than go in the bank. 3) I have NEVER left the car outside over night. I stays in the garage. Period... 4) When I go to the grocery store store, I park as close to the front door as possible. This way, if anything happens, Everyone will notice the Classic Red Datsun being messed with. It sorta begs to be watched, by everyone. Paranoid, NO, Cautious, Yes. Concerned about something I've put years of blood sweat and tears into, YES. If my wife had 4 wheels and a steering wheel, I'd still be the same way. It's perfectly natural to worry about the things you love. Dave.

And that's almost the whole idea. I bought it for the kids. But they LOVE to Jam with their Dad. It's a bonding thing and it keeps the kids busy on those crappy Washington days when the homework and housework is done. They have a choice though, Challenge dad, or clean their rooms... Hehehe That's ok Tom, we'll play with ourselves, you know what that's like, right?