Zs-ondabrain

We all know what they are worth, and what a pain in the butt they can be to tune and keep tuned. I was just wondering about where you stand when it comes to parting out the items you don't want or have any use for. I have 40DCOE's and love them, but I also have a 260Z that I'm thinking of doing a triple set-up on. Just throwing it out there. My full line of upgrades is about $650 (Headlight ($125) and parking light ($50) harness's, LED taillights ($250), front ($100) and side marker LED's ($80), ZX adaptor plug ($15) I'm strapped for cash so that's out of the question. Have a great time with your parts car, I wish I had one. And the room to store everything I need. Dave.

So I guess my next question would be "Are you willing to part with the triple set-up?" We could do some trading or something. PM me if you're interested in a full line of My upgrades or something for your 240Z. Dave

I don't foresee any issues by removing the items above. A baffled oil pan and cooler just keeps the oil near the pickup under hard cornering and racing. The cooler keeps the oil at a decent temp under heavy driving. If you plan on using it under normal driving conditions, you should be more than fine without the pan and cooler. The Triples can be detuned and you'll actually get decent milage and power out of them. I personally get over 25 MPG on the HWY with my triple Weber 40DCOE's. Dave.

I live in Marysville, a whole 7 minutes from Lake Stevens. Oliver at Z-Specialties is on HWY 9 in clearview, just south of Snohomish. Gary is the Owner of Z-Sport in Everett on Smith Ave, just east of the Brown Bear car wash on Broadway. I do upgrades for the lighting systems in 240Z's, mostly. You're welcome to stop by after you get the Z, Just write me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com I have 2 great Z car guys coming up from Oregon on Thursday, for me to work on one of their Z's. (wiper upgrade and some other stuff). Dave.

Actually, when tuned properly and driven like a baby, you can pull over 25 MPG. I have a series 1 70' 240Z and have gotten as much as 28 MPG, using a 79' 280ZX 5-speed and a 3:90 Diff on 225/50ZR16's. I also have triple Weber sidedraft carbs, so I can detune it and get more power but worse mpg. Keep up on the tune-ups (plugs, cap and rotor) and make sure you only use NGK plugs and wires (plugs are BP6ES gapped betwwen .032 and 0.35) You can upgrade the ignition system with a better coil, 79' 280ZX electronic distributor, or a Crane Fireball Infra-red upgrade.(XR3000) Like John said, Rust is the enemy. All is true with any older vehicle. Yours is 37 years old so keep an eye on the frame rails, floor pans, dog legs (between the doors and rear wheels) and the hatch area. You'll find everything you ever wanted to know about your future Z within this site. Wether it's rust treatment, electrical, upgrading, swapping parts, or whatever, it's in here somewhere. Just use the search button and go nuts. If after searching hard, you can't find an answer to your question, Ask. Someone will chime in, but be patient as most of us are in the garage or in the car. Don't forget to add some pictures as soon as you can. We love pictures, Dave.

That's AWESOME Randy. Hate to ask how much you paid cause I know I'll probably put twice that amount into the 260Z I have, and it still won't be an early 240Z. Dave.

You mean to tell me that there are other cars who's hoods open from the front? That's Ludicris!! The only hoods I open are opened near the windshield. HAHAHA Anyways, I'm gonna go bullistic on the 260Z.. Shaved door handles w/ Door poppers and a hidden in plain site switch Electric door locks (because of the almost visible push buttton handle) -OR- relay controlled power wire so it won't open when armed Electric windows Shaved Hatch w/ electric hatch pop w/ Linear actuator to open it (still dual hatch strut assisted) Electric hood pop w/ 4" linear actuator (still spring assisted) w/ back up cable pull Shaved Fuel door (modern style, no handle, lock or lip) Frenched or shaved power antenna w/ trap door Mirrors w/ turn signal LED's Smoothed side markers with LED "Z"s LED lit quarter panel emblems LED taillights and front markers. I'm sure there will be more but only the budget will tell. I hope to have her done in time for MSA in April and find someone to drive it down with me and Leah in the 70' Dave.

Although this is in the "Engine and Drivetrain" section My adding to the thread is relavent. I plan on doing something similar to the 260Z. I've found that most hood cables bind at some point or another as well as rust and slowly fall apart. This is obviously a problem when it's the only way to open the hood. I plan on using a 15LB Solenoid, placed in the cowl area (towards the drivers side of the wiper motor) and the cable will go thru the firewall, 6" from the hood release mechanism. I'll also attach a Loop into the cable so that a "secondary" cable can be attached and ran to a hidden yet accessible area for emergencies. And the release button will replace the release handle, most likely in the same area. Having the hood release electronic also allows for the accessory channel on a keyless entry or alarm system to "Pop" the hood via the remote. Pretty cool huh? Dave.

same thing here. I use these guys more than vintage. http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/connectors.htm Dave.

It looks like an Alarm of sorts. What she needs to do is check the connector on the firewall then follow those same wires over to the pass. side kick panel area. the last time I checked. those wires go to a small 3-pin connector in the P.S. kick panel. Just look for those same colored wires from the firewall connector at the P.S. kick in a small 3-pin connector and one of them goes to a Larger 6-pin connector. and that is a blue/red wire. I still say it's a problem in the P.S. kick panel area or the switch itself. Dave.

Process of elimination. Toss the 4 cyl. rings. You have a 6 cylinder motor. Next. Find the one that best fits the shaft. I think the number on mine is 221? Then put it all together using the picture above. Dave

Thanks E. Do you know if anyone has that same diagram in a Clean PDF? That would be awesome, considering I probably overlook the other one a couple times a week. Dave

That looks like an electronic ignition but difinately not an XR3000 set-up. Where did you get the xr3000? was it new in the box, get it from a friend, what? As far as I know, the XR 3000 is a complete kit that comes with the Fireball coil, ignition box (w/connectors, labels and directions) and 1 Optical insert that replaces your current (points or electronic) set-up. I think you're missing something. Dave.

I can't even remember where I got those but I'm so glad I did. They've come ion handy more than once. Dave.

Good to hear you made it OK, me and leah wish you 3 the best. You can still chat with me here though. I finally got the 260Z in the garage and started tearing her down. The hood and fenders are at the scrap yard and the replacements are on the wall. Seems like most of the rust was on the panels, the metal under them was'nt too bad. I'll just use the SEM on some spots, prime it and move on. Keep in touch, Dave.

Hope this helps. Save them to your computer, it's easier that way. Dave 70_240z_wiring.pdf

Do you have this peice in your Dizzy? If you do, and it only has 2 wires, then something is seriously wrong or you got robbed. The picture shows the optical set-up inside a converted dizzy. Take a picture of the inside of your dizzy and the rest of your set-up, Dave.

The optical assembly that goes in the distributor has 3 wires and a molex, did you instal that into the dizzy? I too have a 260Z with the XR3000 set-up. Everything is labeled. The red, Yellow and black go to the coil..... Red to (+) on the coil. Yellow to the (-) on the coil and the black gets grounded. Then the black, white and grey wires on a molex go to the dizzy, the optical insert goes in the dizzy in place of the points. Then connect the dizzy to the molex. Dave.

Patience is the biggest rule of the game. We are older, kinder, gentler, MORE patient and deserving than your local honda kid. We deserve these cars because we have spent a lifetime dealing with cars that need too much work or not enough. When people see you driving down the road in your beautiful Classic ZCar, It's because YOU put it there, it's full of your blood, sweat and tears. If you break away now, you might as well be leaving your men while they're under fire, behind enemy lines. Stick with it, fix the little things, then go enjoy your car, knowing that it did'nt break you and your that much smarter and wiser than some kid in a fricken Honda. Keep the car, put in the work, enjoy the ride, Dave.

Finally took 3 days to sell off a bunch of wood working tools (huge drill press, Grizzly table saw, Ryobi router table and a B&D Radial arm saw) Cleaned everything up and built a few shelves, tossed a bunch of crap, gave away my 300ZX B/W T-5 tranny and 79' ZX 5-speed and a few other things and found enough room to slide the 260Z in the garage, FINALLY!! There's just no way in Hell that I'm leaving the 70' outside this winter when I start working on the 74'. I'll pull the 70 out on nice days when I got body work on the 260Z but other than that, it'll sit in a corner. As you can tell from the pictures, Anything that can fit on the wall is shelved, nailed and bolted to the wall and out of the way. Parts on one side and tools on the other. It's cramped but it works. Dave.

The is a page from MSA, it's good for starting out prices, also check your local Craigslist. I found the Urethane Air Dam that MSA sells for $199 for $30 just down the road from me. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/7AD2 Dave.