Zs-ondabrain

So as most of you know, I'm rebuilding the 260Z this winter but I think I ran into a snag. As the picture below shows, the 240Z front left spindle/strut assemble is 3/16" shorter than the 260Z assembly (2/74) And the 260Z's spring perch is 1" lower than the 240Z's. So my question is........ If I use the 240Z spindles/strut assemblies and 240Z Eibach PR springs and KYB struts like I would on a 240Z, would there be any ride height differences or unforeseen issues?? From what I can tell, and off the top of my head, The 260Z springs and struts are a slight bit longer, because the spring perch is lower on the strut tube and the tube is 3/16" taller. But it seems like everything else is identical (torsion bar, steering knuckle and control arm) So what did the change in tube length and lower perch do for the 260Z versus the 240Z??? Thanks for the facts and not overloading the thread with opinions (hint hint) Dave.

If you're worried about noise thru the stero system, re-attach that wire to another condensor and ground it. The points caused haveck but since you're now going electronic, it's not likely to be needed. Dave.

The only yellowish or faded white/yellow wire should be going to the temp unit.

So basically, You've chosen the right car if you're looking for a good community of fellow Z owners that will help when they can. You're in good hands, Dave.

I just have the Stock fuel pump for now. Till I get serious about a new electric pump. The 240Z runs but needs the Triples tuned badly. Keep an eye on my Gallery for updates on the 260Z. I started some tear down a week ago, the fenders and hood are in the metal bin at the local recyclers and the good ones (buttload of metal work) are on the wall. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=29130&ppuser=4921 The D.S. seat, center console, sound deadener and steering wheel are out but I have to minimize what I take out cause I don't have much room to store everything once it's off the car. Found a few holes in the floor that I was unaware of but nothing major that I can't fix. Started using the Phosphoric Acid on the rust and I'll finish with the Ryno-liner like we did on your Z. Lots of surface rust issues but just surface. The doglegs are shot and I need to redo them but everything else is loking better than I first expected. Lots of plans for it, like.... Electric windows, shaved door handles and locks, shaved hatch, frenched antenna with hide-away door, slightly hidden push-button door handles (electric switch behind a false thumb print size panel) Linear actuators on the hood and hatch, hood and hatch poppers, H4's, LED stuff, Full suspension everything, and too much more to add and still keep this a decent size post. Keep in touch and watch for updates. Dave.

In post number 8, he stated that he found the box of needed (missing) parts. Now all he has to do is instal the correct 6 cyl. spacer peice and the optical pick-up and he's good to go. Maybe he'll chime in soon and give us an update on his progress. Thanks for your input though, I know I appreciate it. Dave.

I have one similar to it. They were the Ads for Nissan when they decided to resale the 240Z's in 97'. The one I have is of Mr. K's Yellow ZG, facing the lower left corner of the page. They were mostly found in Magazine centerfolds, good place for them, eh? Dave.

We all know what they are worth, and what a pain in the butt they can be to tune and keep tuned. I was just wondering about where you stand when it comes to parting out the items you don't want or have any use for. I have 40DCOE's and love them, but I also have a 260Z that I'm thinking of doing a triple set-up on. Just throwing it out there. My full line of upgrades is about $650 (Headlight ($125) and parking light ($50) harness's, LED taillights ($250), front ($100) and side marker LED's ($80), ZX adaptor plug ($15) I'm strapped for cash so that's out of the question. Have a great time with your parts car, I wish I had one. And the room to store everything I need. Dave.

So I guess my next question would be "Are you willing to part with the triple set-up?" We could do some trading or something. PM me if you're interested in a full line of My upgrades or something for your 240Z. Dave

I don't foresee any issues by removing the items above. A baffled oil pan and cooler just keeps the oil near the pickup under hard cornering and racing. The cooler keeps the oil at a decent temp under heavy driving. If you plan on using it under normal driving conditions, you should be more than fine without the pan and cooler. The Triples can be detuned and you'll actually get decent milage and power out of them. I personally get over 25 MPG on the HWY with my triple Weber 40DCOE's. Dave.

I live in Marysville, a whole 7 minutes from Lake Stevens. Oliver at Z-Specialties is on HWY 9 in clearview, just south of Snohomish. Gary is the Owner of Z-Sport in Everett on Smith Ave, just east of the Brown Bear car wash on Broadway. I do upgrades for the lighting systems in 240Z's, mostly. You're welcome to stop by after you get the Z, Just write me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com I have 2 great Z car guys coming up from Oregon on Thursday, for me to work on one of their Z's. (wiper upgrade and some other stuff). Dave.

Actually, when tuned properly and driven like a baby, you can pull over 25 MPG. I have a series 1 70' 240Z and have gotten as much as 28 MPG, using a 79' 280ZX 5-speed and a 3:90 Diff on 225/50ZR16's. I also have triple Weber sidedraft carbs, so I can detune it and get more power but worse mpg. Keep up on the tune-ups (plugs, cap and rotor) and make sure you only use NGK plugs and wires (plugs are BP6ES gapped betwwen .032 and 0.35) You can upgrade the ignition system with a better coil, 79' 280ZX electronic distributor, or a Crane Fireball Infra-red upgrade.(XR3000) Like John said, Rust is the enemy. All is true with any older vehicle. Yours is 37 years old so keep an eye on the frame rails, floor pans, dog legs (between the doors and rear wheels) and the hatch area. You'll find everything you ever wanted to know about your future Z within this site. Wether it's rust treatment, electrical, upgrading, swapping parts, or whatever, it's in here somewhere. Just use the search button and go nuts. If after searching hard, you can't find an answer to your question, Ask. Someone will chime in, but be patient as most of us are in the garage or in the car. Don't forget to add some pictures as soon as you can. We love pictures, Dave.

That's AWESOME Randy. Hate to ask how much you paid cause I know I'll probably put twice that amount into the 260Z I have, and it still won't be an early 240Z. Dave.

You mean to tell me that there are other cars who's hoods open from the front? That's Ludicris!! The only hoods I open are opened near the windshield. HAHAHA Anyways, I'm gonna go bullistic on the 260Z.. Shaved door handles w/ Door poppers and a hidden in plain site switch Electric door locks (because of the almost visible push buttton handle) -OR- relay controlled power wire so it won't open when armed Electric windows Shaved Hatch w/ electric hatch pop w/ Linear actuator to open it (still dual hatch strut assisted) Electric hood pop w/ 4" linear actuator (still spring assisted) w/ back up cable pull Shaved Fuel door (modern style, no handle, lock or lip) Frenched or shaved power antenna w/ trap door Mirrors w/ turn signal LED's Smoothed side markers with LED "Z"s LED lit quarter panel emblems LED taillights and front markers. I'm sure there will be more but only the budget will tell. I hope to have her done in time for MSA in April and find someone to drive it down with me and Leah in the 70' Dave.

Although this is in the "Engine and Drivetrain" section My adding to the thread is relavent. I plan on doing something similar to the 260Z. I've found that most hood cables bind at some point or another as well as rust and slowly fall apart. This is obviously a problem when it's the only way to open the hood. I plan on using a 15LB Solenoid, placed in the cowl area (towards the drivers side of the wiper motor) and the cable will go thru the firewall, 6" from the hood release mechanism. I'll also attach a Loop into the cable so that a "secondary" cable can be attached and ran to a hidden yet accessible area for emergencies. And the release button will replace the release handle, most likely in the same area. Having the hood release electronic also allows for the accessory channel on a keyless entry or alarm system to "Pop" the hood via the remote. Pretty cool huh? Dave.

same thing here. I use these guys more than vintage. http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/connectors.htm Dave.

It looks like an Alarm of sorts. What she needs to do is check the connector on the firewall then follow those same wires over to the pass. side kick panel area. the last time I checked. those wires go to a small 3-pin connector in the P.S. kick panel. Just look for those same colored wires from the firewall connector at the P.S. kick in a small 3-pin connector and one of them goes to a Larger 6-pin connector. and that is a blue/red wire. I still say it's a problem in the P.S. kick panel area or the switch itself. Dave.

Process of elimination. Toss the 4 cyl. rings. You have a 6 cylinder motor. Next. Find the one that best fits the shaft. I think the number on mine is 221? Then put it all together using the picture above. Dave

Thanks E. Do you know if anyone has that same diagram in a Clean PDF? That would be awesome, considering I probably overlook the other one a couple times a week. Dave