Zs-ondabrain

I never said that you could'nt check his lights with your switch. I rebuild combo and Turn signals on the side. Look at the pictures below. If the 240Z in question still overheats the fuses and switch, maybe it's time to get one of my upgrade harness's??? Maybe. write me or PM me. Dave. This is 3/4 of my switch stock. In total, I own over 80 pounds of switches from 69' to 78'. Need spare parts??

Thanks for the compliments Seth, but Arne was only involved with the ZXP (ZX alternator adaptor plug) and the SCP's (Sidemarker conversion plugs) I owe Arne alot for his ideas and help but I take full credit for the Headlight Harness and Parking light harness. Necessity is the mother of invention. My fusebox melted and lights went to hell, so I Needed a good fix. Everyone offered wiring diagrams but nobody MADE a Harness except for Black Dragon, and that harness is a Joke. Period. So I designed and made my own and the rest is history. I do make a Hardwire version for the 280Z but you'll obviously need to cut a few plugs off. But that's it, no tearing the car apart like the BD and Painless require. Dave.

Knew it was something weird like that. And as far as the Long in the rear goes, probably to ballance it out? don't know. glad you got an answer, Dave.

I love those things but there is a problem with using those on the intake/exhaust nuts. Most of the nuts sit back on the stud, just out of reach of that socket. Or at least that's been my experience with them. I usually go for the deep socket on a swivel. I got a drawer full of those but they rarely get used unless it's for the head of a bolt, but almost useless on a nut that sits on a too long stud. Good advice though, in most cases. Dave.

The earlier models are 2x3 (6-pin connectors) The additional 3 wires are for the intermittant wipers and the 2nd wire on the washer fluid, which activates the wipers when the fluid button is pushed. The top switch consists of 4 wires. the 2 green based wires are for the parking lights and the red and white (or red and black,it varies) are for the headlight switch. Check the switch with an ohms meter to see if the switch is working. Also check for power on the larger gauge red or white wire. Have fun. Dave.

I agree, if a butt load of white smoke was coming out of the exhaust, then I'd be worried.

The water tube can be unscrwed, with a bit of brute force, and brass plugged as SBlake01 said. Carl said to use "a universal swivel, a 10" extension and the socket" That sounds about right. But if possible, use a 6-point socket instead of a universal 12 point. It's a tighter grip, in my opinion, and should do the trick. I have small hands and am able to occasionally able to get a box wrench between the block and the exhaust manifold. I like the 8" long ones for more torque when removing those nuts. but I can't remember if it's possible to use those on stock manifolds, Headers are easier. You circled the "Air injection tubes" They are the 6 small tubes that all go into the larger cross tube. It's not impossible to remove the nuts that hold those tubes to the manifold but few have been able to do it easily. Then and only if you get them out, brass plug them or Braze them shut. As for that water line that comes out of the back carb and over to the passenger side "T" fitting. If you remove the water pipe from the thermostat housing, you'll need to do something about the "T" fitting. Most people use a bit of rubber water hose to clamp onto the "T" then fill the other end of the rubber hose with a bolt or plug and clamp it off. This will allow water to still go to the heater core and not dump out the open hole. You can also, instead, use a "Flushing T" to remove that "Y" pipe. Don't forget to have the exhaust Manifold checked for flatness. maybe even take it to a shop for resurfacing. One thing I usually do when installing a used intake manifold is loosen the ballance tube bolts just before installing. This will help when the studs or bolts on the head don't wanna line up with the intake. After tightening the intakes, retighten the ballance tube bolts. Did I miss anything? Probably. Dave.

Off the top of my head, there are 4 springs, 2 of which have a sticker or printing saying where they go, that leaves the other 2 for the other half of the car. I'm sure that sounded stupid but my set had identifying stickers. Look for those markers and go from there.

I did'nt read the whole thread but if I had to throw something into the mix, I say that your end-links need to be shortened by 3/4". That should clear the axles and allow the rear to sit correct without lowering too much. By the way, Why so big on the sway bars? Dave.

I know this may sound dumb but, did you get the nuts or bolts on the exhaust manifold that have a large washer overlapping the intake flange? And just remember that heat and gooo tend to Glue the intake to the head. Also, on the new set-up in the second picture, that vaccum tube that goes from the #1 carb to the balance tube is suppost to go to the Distributor for vaccum advance. And don't forget to cap off the ballance tube aftr you remove the hose from it. And yes, there are a lot less parts on a clean set-up, compared to the Flat-top set-up. All those emmisions tubes and crap are unneeded for a 35+ year old car. Unless you're going for that "Concorse" look. Also, if you';re gonna go with a newer set-up and toss that old crap, toss the exhaust manifold for a new Header. You'll love the look and sound, not to mention a couple extra Horse Power. Dave

And not one of you mentioned ELECTRICAL. So let me say electrical, electrical, electrical.. Non of the upgrades will matter if the electrical or Ignition system sucks. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking any advice, just pointing out the obvious. The headwork, intake and exhaust upgrades are awesome but you need Spark and lots of it. Make sure to stick with NGK plugs and wires. I'd suggest an infra-red / optical ignition system. It will stay true at higher RPM's and not peeter out or float like points do. It's more expensive but I'd go with a Mallory Unilite Distributor. Great solid distributor that's right up there with the other top names in Datsun Upgrades (Rebello, Tokico, Eiback, MSA and Weber) And on top of that distributor, you can go with an MSD 6A to multiply that spark and a Mallory Promaster Coil to increase that spark. I have this set-up in my Z and my NGK BP6ES plugs are gapped at 0.70 This set-up throws a 6+ inch white hot spark that'll make you think you're having a fricken heart attack. Take my word for it, it hurt, a lot. And I could go with a full 0.10 gap if I wanted. Look into different options, or cheaper ones but Do Not Skip the ignition system. And increase the size of your stock battery cables to no less than 4 gauge and make sure the ground points are optimum. Dave.

It's been a while since I added to this thread so I thought I'd Bump it up to let the readers know that everything still works great. Never blown a fuse, no issues with the wiring between the body and doors, still nice and quiet and strong. I've been asked 3 times this month about "Power windows" so I figured an update was in order and this bring it closer to the front page when people search for info on the subject. Dave.

It's a large gauge (12 ga?) red/ white wire and it splits near the right headlight.

First.. The stock alternator only put out 40 amps, max. The ZX internally regulated alternator puts out 60 Amps, Max. That's 15 to 20 amps more than stock. That's the 15 to 20+ increase that you're seeing. No big mystery there. DeesZ, you can't check the VR because it's now internal. good suggestion though, on a stock 240z alternator, not the case here. If the stereo system is fairly new to the Z, don't dismiss it. If it's a large system like mine (800 watts) a newer battery and larger power wires are almost Required. I personally run 2 gauge battery wires from the battery to the distribution block and to the ground. From there, I run 4 gauge to the starter and to the amps. GROUNDING cables are more important than most people think. Great connections from the battery to the block, frame and ground cable on the engine harness are VERY important. I would personally enlarge the cables, upgrade the battery, refresh the grounds (clean them and make sure they are bolted down properly). THEN.... Loosen the ground terminal on the battery, remove it from the battery. wait 1 minute, make sure the doors are closed and everything is off, then slowly bring the terminal close to the battery post. Watch for even the smallest spark upon touching the terminal to the battery. If you see a spark, something is on and you need to address it. Use the old "process of elimination" by disconnecting electrical items and retest with each removal. You can also use a volt meter between the battery and the disconnected battery ground terminal. just remember that the internal clock and memory on your stereo has a very small draw and should be ignored. Make sure the stereo and amp(s) (if any) are well grounded and powered with the proper size power wires. Back to the original question. The ammeter will fluctuate more than before due to the increased amperage. Think of the ammeter as a mid-valve. If power is being drawn from the battery side, the meter will swing to the positive and if you're drawing from the fusebox, your needle will swing to the negative. Hope some of this clears things up a bit. just another 2 cents in the pot. Dave.

I went with a Satin black. I primed the tank with black primer then coated the whole thing with Dupli-color Professional Undercoating. Then I painted the straps to match the Z's top coat.

Also not in the movies, but.... On Saturday Night Live, in the 80's?? They did a "MR. Bill" skit where Mr. Bill is placed in his travel Trailer and Mr. Hand says "we're gonna go for a little ride" Much to Mr. Bills dismay. Mr. Hand ties a rope to the trailer and the next scene is a 280Z doing doughnuts in the parking lot with the trailer attached and the playdough dog is being drug behing the trailer as well. It was a short movie but it was a Z and on TV. so does it count? Of coarse it does. Dave.

Anyone else besides Jeff and his friend, and me and leah? If I'm gonna wait for a ferry for up to 3 hours, in 90 degree heat, it'd be nice to know that I'll know some people who will be there, when we Finally get there. What sucks is that it's a 25 minute drive, as the crow flies, but it'll take Hours after waiting for 2 ferries and riding them, driving the whole length of 525 and finally putting (Driving slowly) thru town to avoid a ticket. I need a break from building upgrades and it'll be nice to spend a whole day with my two favorite Ladies (Leah and the Z). So like I first said..... Anyone else??

So I'll bring up the subject again, Being as how it's only a day away. Me and Leah will show up on Saturday for the day only. So all who are going or making an appearence, please chime in now. Hope to see as many as possible on Saturday, Finally got my "FairLady Z" emblems from MSA and installed them last night. JFYI Dave.

That's when you say " If you're gonna give me a ticket, then just do it. But don't pull me over then Insult me AND my car" Basically, Don't make me take my seatbelt off, you would'nt like me Outside my Z"

Sorry bout that guys, #86 is correct. just click on the Bitmap image on the first post. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21025&d=1198483165 Also, TARMAC, I sent a picture of the correct Relay info to your Regular email. 20/30 or 30/40 amp relay 5-pin SPDT Dave.