littleren

Second that on ZTherapy. Great guys to deal with and their stuff is high-quality. I bought their rebuild kit recently and while kind of pricey, I think it was well worth the money.

Guys, Rebuilding my 4-screw SU's today and one of my old nozzles was completely stuck. Could not get it to budge and ended up having to basically write the thing off. Attached is a picture of the mixture-control wheel/screw thing and the chamber that the nozzle is supposed to slide up and down in. Thankfully this whole component screws into the carb body itself so while this piece is a mess, the carb itself is fine. Does anybody have one of these pieces in an old carb that I can buy or does anyone know where I can get one? Not even sure what this component is actually called. attached picture is pretty crappy but hopefully you'll know what it is. Thanks in advance.

A few questions for the collective genius that is this list. I put an L28 into my 240z and utilized the 4-speed tranny and clutch components that were with the L24 that I removed. Didn't make any component changes or part changes or anything like that to the tranny/clutch assembly....simply bolted them up to the new L28. We thought we did everything right...clutch plate facing the right direction...all of that good stuff. The tranny shifted fine when the car wasn't running but once it was fired up it wouldn't go into gear. I'm not much of a tranny/clutch expert at all. In fact, I'm pretty much clueless on that front. That said, I know from the list that you usually want to keep the original components of the tranny/clutch when swapping out the L24 for an L28 so that's what I did. We now have the engine and tranny back out of the car and are preparing to try to fix the issue. Anyone have any ideas as to what may be the problem? Like I said, I'm no expert in this area so any advice you guys can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Would have gone anywhere else other than Midas if possible. Unfortunately that was the only option I had. I'm still going to rip the guy a new one just for fun. Not so much because of the exhorbinant price, but because they are now 2 days late in completing the job to begin with. I knew Midas sucked, just didn't have an option unfortunately.

Quick question. Had an exhaust system fabricated for my 240z over the weekend. They (Midas unfortunately) created an exhaust system from the exhaust flange back. No catalytic. They did install a factory muffler ($75). They said the pipe cost $38. The muffler was $75. A connector bracket from the pipe to the exhaust flange was $25. All said and done they charged me $420 for it which to me sounds extremely high. I'm going to pick it up today and wanted to get other people's feedback on the price and get an idea as to if I got taken or not. Anyone have any feelings as to if $420 is high for an exhaust system on basically the back half of the car?

I'm probably asking a pretty simplistic question but being relatively new to the car restoration/modification thing I'll ask it anyway. I have a 73 240z and I have dropped an L28 from an 83 280zx into it. I have the 280zx exhaust downpipe attached to the exhaust manifold so I'm in good shape there and I know that my 240 exhaust won't bolt up directly to it. My question is basically what is the best way of completing the exhaust from the exhaust flange back. My 240z exhaust is anything but stock and kind of a rusty mess. I wouldn't mind getting one of those Monza systems but I imagine that the one for the 83 280zx (so that it bolts directly to the flange) won't fit the 240 very well and the one for the 240 won't bolt up to the flange. I know this is a pretty common conversion and I'm just curious as to what most people have done. I'm thinking maybe the best bet is to tow it to an exhaust shop and have them custom fit one from the flange back. Any suggestions/ideas? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the info and the pictures. These pictures will help out a great deal. I think I'm going to try to tackle it this weekend so I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks for the reply. Obviously I need to replace the metal so if it was somehow inferred from my post that I wanted to simply leave a 3" x 6" hole in my firewall then my apologies (although I don't know how that could be inferred). All I really was interested in finding out is if one could use jb weld to secure this small section of sheet metal as opposed to using my mig welder which will be used on the battery compartment. Guess not.

Cut the battery box out of my 73 Z today and also ended up having to cut about a 6" x 3" section out of the firewall where the battery box butts up against it. My question primarily involves repairing the firewall section. Have the wire harness really close to the cut out section on the right and have a lot of the firewall insulation to deal with as well. Is this an area where, instead of welding in a new piece of sheet metal, I could utilize something like JB Weld to hold a piece of sheet metal in place? I plan on welding in fabricated sheet metal for the battery box but I'm concerned about having to remove the insulation and wire harness to keep from damaging them should I have to weld the firewall section. Hope this makes sense. I'd love to be able to utilize something like JB Weld since the firewall section is pretty inconspicuous and doesn't really bear any weight. As always, thanks in advance.

Trying to learn as much about the L28 that I just bought as I possibly can. It is an L28 with an N54 casting code. It has an N47 head and the cam is an "E Marked". I was doing some reading and I can't tell if this is the normal cam that came in the N47 head or if this is more of a performance cam. It is my understanding that the engine was built by a guy who has rebuilt a number of these for racing. If anyone has some info as to whether this is the stock cam or what sort of performance I can expect from this setup let me know. As always, thanks again! Just learning as much as I can about my engine configuration before I drop it into my 73 240.

Does anyone have the details of the rx7 fuel pump I should look for (model etc). I'm not even sure exactly what to search for or ask for if I go to a local parts house. Also, does anyone have any pictures of how it hooks up? Thanks again for all of the advice.

Great information Arnie. I'm in the process of doing the FI to SU conversion as well. My N47 head doesn't have the hole for my old mechanical fuel pump to go into it. I have a 73z and it had an electronic fuel pump directly in front of the gas tank (unfortunately it is in really bad shape). My question is, can I get a new/refurbished stock electronic fuel pump for my 73z and use it in lieu of trying to find an rx7 fuel pump or using a 280z fuel pump and a pressure regulator?

Bought a professionally rebuilt L28 engine today. I hadn't planned on buying it and instead planned on rebuilding the L24 I had in my Z but got a great deal and couldn't resist. Now I have a few questions so I figured I'd ask all of the experts here. This place is a goldmine of information. Anyway, I have a 73 240z with an L24 block and E88 heads. It has a 71 intake manifold on it with 71 SU carbs. The new engine I bought is a L28 with N47 heads on it. I have the fuel injection to go with it but I'm debating whether to just put my 71 intake and carbs on it (I prefer the carbs more than the FI but I'm on the fence at this point whether I should go carbs or FI). I think the intake manifold and will bolt up directly to the N47 heads. What was interesting to me is that the exhaust ports on the N47 heads are round whereas the ones on the E88 are square. I'm assuming, regardless of what I do with the FI/Carbs, I need to get a different exhaust manifold to fit the N47. Can anyone confirm this? I guess my question(s) is basically what would you recommend regarding the carbs/FI and are there any issues that I need to keep in mind when putting the L28 in instead of the existing L24. I also assume the tranny will match right up but can someone confirm this too? Thanks for all of your assistance.

Thanks for all of the feedback guys. Sounds like I'll pull both the engine and tranny at the same time. Sounds like whether I remove manifolds etc before or after pulling isn't as important as insuring I pull tranny and engine simultaneously. I was checking my car yesterday and I'm missing the back engine lift bracket (god only knows how that happened). Anyone have one I can buy? I can't find any universal ones where the bolt is metric.

Hi Guys, Pulling the engine out of my 73 Z and had a couple of questions. I guess first, would you recommend I remove the intake mainfold, carburetors, valve cover, and heads before I lift the engine out? I've seen pictures where people take off pretty much everything they can from the engine before pulling it but then the Haynes manual shows them pulling it with all of these things attached. Does it really matter? Second question. I want to pull the engine while leaving the tranny in place under the car. I was going to support the tranny and unbolt it from the engine prior to pulling it. The tranny is in good shape so I'd prefer not to have to pull it out. Does leaving it pose any difficulties and would you recommend that I pull the tranny too or am I ok leaving it in? Kind of a restoration newbie so I appreciate your advice. Thanks in advance!