cygnusx1

Thanks, Mike. Appreciate it.

Offering one of my restored steering wheels. This time it's a series one. I also have non series one wheels available. $432 on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/332874874041 Thanks, Dave

I thought Hemmings was sort of global anyway.

Relisted at Hemmings https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/datsun/280z/2029317.html

Wise words.

Thanks, I had offers after the auction, higher than my reserve which was 18.5K, but I want to wait to sell it to the right type of person, and make a decent profit so I can do another one. I really didn't want it to go for 18.5K but BAT pushes for reduced reserves, and then you just hope they get blown past. I am VERY glad I held the reserve higher than what BAT wanted, and it didn't just skim the reserve. I can wait for the right new owner that will love this car. Two types of buyers for this car: An investor that would keep it for a few years, watch the value climb, and flip it (these are the guys that stop at 15K because they need ROI). The other type of buyer, which is my target, would be someone passionate that REALLY wants a truly clean Z, but wants one they could use for family fun, turn key, hassle free. This car is like owning a new car. It will go on and on, with no issues, keeping a basic maintenance schedule. I am too much of a driving enthusiast, and heavy tinkerer to keep this car long term, I won't be able to leave it stock. Besides, all my bays are full, and I want to find/fix/build/sell more Z cars in the future. Yes the ad asks for 25,280 but you know what it cost's to buy a solid 280Z, a clean dash, original radios, brand new full interior, and have a car painted these days? Try going out and finding new OEM body parts to fix one up, find clean OEM glass, the glass trim, body seals, not to mention the rubber that surrounds these bumpers, and the time it takes to put it all together. To all the naysayers, DO THE MATH.

Yep. It's in my garage and I drove it happily today. What a treat! Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

Well, few and far between, this lady is looking for a new home. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/datsun/280z/2029317.html Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

The high bidder on my Auction bid an equivalent condition and mileage late 74 260Z up to $45.5K, but only $15.5K on mine. I asked why? He said because there was nobody really bidding against him, dings in the body, and the suspension. Fair enough. Not sure about the suspension comment. Maybe the lack of cleanliness of the struts and control arms? But seriously? A $30K difference? Something is fishy over at BAT.

Bingo.

It didn't meet my reserve on BAT. Lazy Tuesday afternoon bidders only reached $15.5K, but I got off-line offers of significantly more than that. I almost let it go for less than I want, but I decided to aim and shoot again. What's it worth? I don't know yet. For sale again here: https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/datsun/280z/2029317.html

The answer is as follows: Nissan stopped using the "DATSUN" sill plate or scuff plates somewhere between 1/76 - 2/76. Nissan parts microfiche confirms this with part numbers and notes. As with most line production changes, they probably don't have a clear cut exact date, so there were probably a handful of cars that crossed the line by a few days during the change over. I bet your car was a late 1/76 car. The newer plates required two additional holes in the sill. If you take them off, you may be able to tell if two of the holes were drilled differently during the installation. If they were upgraded at a later date, you may see a different drilling.

The 280Z is the underdog to the 240Z in the collector world, but supply of low mile, true survivors, is dwindling fast. Is it the "Dino" of the Ferrari world?

Thanks, Z brother. I suspect it will exceed 17k-18k easily. If it hits 20-23K that right about on target, anymore than that and it will be a long term investor that loves Z cars, and knows it's going to be 35k-45k in 5 more years. I just want it to have a nicer climate or a climate controlled home. I can't provide that for long term.

Price is up for auction. The car is in Putnam County, NY about 50 miles North of Manhattan.

Thanks for pointing it out. It should be fixed now.

I am selling my time capsule. This was recently found locally from its original owner and was in his garage for 41 years. It has original window sticker, paperwork, and is in amazing rust free condition under original paint! https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/datsun/280z/2029317.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_-bhBus8Do

Here is a link to the sale. I spent days on this one. The spokes were stripped to metal, primed, sanded, painted. The rim got scrubbed, bleached, sanded, stained, four coats of clear, lots of sanding in between, I ran out of nice horn pads so I am including a brand new reproduction horn pad. Have a look, it sure came out pretty. http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/331796135203?

Here is a link to the sale. I spent days on this one. The spokes were stripped to metal, primed, sanded, painted. The rim got scrubbed, bleached, sanded, stained, four coats of clear, lots of sanding in between, I ran out of nice horn pads so I am including a brand new reproduction horn pad. Have a look, it sure came out pretty. http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/331796135203?

SOLD

SOLD

That's basically the same idea I have to try. I am not an expert, I have only done less than a handful of these (some of them over again to perfect the techniques), and using hobby grade cyano acrylate in medium or thin viscosity, they seem to be strong enough to lift the wheel and more. I removed and replaced one three times after I glued the cracks shut tightly, and the cracks didn't reopen. I had to use quite a bit of force 15-20lbs to pull the piece off. This is not a scientific test but it seems to be an OK, if not temporary, solution. A wrapped clamp or wire/spring around the internal cup perimeter would be a more permanent fix, but would require modifying the part internally, slightly from original state...a trade off.

I haven't see an original one yet that hasn't cracked. So far gluing and clamping them with a strap while the glue sets has worked well. I am considering wire strapping around the outside of the cup if I run across a really bad one.

Here is the series 2 wheel I just finished. This one also turned out great. Complete wheel with horn pad and nut/washer. If you would like to have your own wheel refurbished instead, contact me. Thanks. -Dave http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/331791880219?

That was the original assembly. Cleaned, and touched up.