cygnusx1

Because my 240Z came as a roller and the original motor from my 280Z was full of cobwebs on the garage floor. Put two and two together and I have an L28 240Z. I wish I did have the original block to match the engine plate in the bay. It's somewhere in GA, North of Atlanta.

Yes, pull and service the tank, and flush all the lines with a cleaner. Don't take chances.

Soldering vs crimping is a debate as old as, well... soldering and crimping. Airplane wiring=no solder, for the reasons given above. But in a car, 99% of the wires don't ever see enough use or vibration to make a difference, nor are the results of electrical failure usually as dire.

Good point, if you are making your own cables and need a new battery, get a reversed polarity battery. Much safer IMHO. Both of my Z cars now have reversed polarity units. I am always nervous when tightening the positive post, on a regular battery, under the fender! The wrench comes so close to the body work that you should remove the ground post to tighten the hot post.

To make really classy and super high quality cables, get some welder cable in black and red. Then get universal battery terminals and solder them on with a small plumbing torch. They are very flexible and soft, and flame resistant.

Hmm makes me want to go buy a decent 260Z.

Thats a pretty tight budget. The red one I just resto-freshed last Winter cost me right around that figure as well, plus cost of the car, but I didn't paint it. I was able to buff it out. I figure I have a grand total between 7k and 8k into it. I need to add up the stuff someday...or not.

Thats exactly what I was about to post....check the two nuts for the diff behind the mustache bar. Usual suspects. Edit: I added locktite to mine.

Did your instructor get a chance to drive your Z? Many of them have no idea what it's like to be behind the wheel of an old Z car and might be more aware of what you are dealing with after they drive it. My first instructor asked permission to "feel" the Z before he instructed me in it. I thought it was a great move on his part. He was taken aback by the steering effort and feedback.

Haha, thumbs up, the pair look great together! The first thing I did when I fired up my second Z, was to take it up the block and back. The second thing was to mount the hood. The third thing was to park it next to my other Z and take photos.

There are lots of people up here in the NorthEast that will DD a car in that condition...although I would recommend some safety checks first!

He said GT3 and track in the same sentence. I think he forgot about the thud.

The Z cars were well adapted track cars in 1970, and still are in 2011. Beware the slippery slope! A race track is a playground for Z cars. Enjoy and be safe. We eagerly await pictures and videos!

You can buy nylon "stockings" for the hoses that looks half way decent. I use it on most of my hoses when I build. It comes in colors but of course black is what you want. It's a bit glossy but if you hit it with a little bit of flat black after you slip it over the hoses, it looks pretty good. Here you can see it on my heater hose in its original gloss. I think I bought a generic braiding kit from Summit but I don't see it listed anymore. Here is another source http://www.electricalhub.com/braided-sleeving?gclid=CIDTrvOTz6YCFQY65QodXV6cIw

See below...double post..

I never said it was a bad thing that Gary came to make his peace. :paranoid:

Wow, killing Z cars and resurrecting threads from 2002! ;-) Welcome to the site!

I don't think that would hold up in court. These cars are 40+ years old. Previous owners don't even know the real history anymore. Besides, he manned up and stated up front that the car has been totaled and repaired. I think he is entitled to the opinion in his prior post..even though it sounds like a statement, I think it's obvious that it's an opinion. Of course anyone can sue anyone for anything nowadays..or at least they think they can. Back on topic, time...

Turbo can fix that! Congrats.

No matter what, we can only speculate on it's value from behind the computer screen. The seller admitted the salvage title, therefore the car MUST be thoroughly trammed and inspected by a body shop to determine the extent and quality of the repairs. ASSUMING the originality and functionality is 100%, 100% rust free, and collision repair was done 100% correctly you can look at the top of the asking price range, and higher potentially. If it is shoddy, you are looking at Carl's guesstimate which would be dead on. I have heard that cars can sell through auction in certain states, lose their title history, and any skeletons in the closet get eradicated. Another factor is the piece price of the car. What are all those high-desire parts worth on the market if they are in primo condition? Possibly right up there with the top asking price?

Maybe not as an investment, but from the pictures, it looks like it is original, albeit "repaired". Which I would take over a marginal backyard "rustoration" any day, upon inspection. Marginal rustorations are going for more the 5k if they "look" good with no regard to history or paperwork. This is a step above those cars, IF it was repaired right, and is not just lipstick. Rust runs deep, even after a repair there is usually rust in places you don't or can't see. Accident damage ends at the damage zone if you know what I mean. It's akin to cancer versus a broken leg. A rust free chassis with original panels and glass, and all original parts intact and functional, with no cut and weld rust repairs has got some value to us middle budget, non-collectors. It's probably matching number as well. The interior color could easily have been changed with a can of spray. This is a car that should go on a bidding site with professional pictures and possibly with an independent appraisal. The parts alone are well worth the asking price.

I won't comment on the $11k appraisal because it's not my place, but I recommend that, if and when, you do insure it for agreed value, add at least $4000 to the value. Think about what you would need to replace it, shipping, travel, and then a buffer just in case you need it when looking at accident damage. For example, my 280Z was insured for $8k and when the accident repairs estimated to around $6500, they were talking about totaling the car. My point is that you need to go some percentage OVER what it's worth with agreed value coverage to truly be safe. It was repaired, and is now covered for $15k, at my discretion, with Hagerty.

Congrats! It is a nice car. Great attention to detail!

Perfectly fine.

The top end of an intact motor will take years and years to dry out enough to rust, if the car is in an average garage space. No need to worry about top end lubrication. My 280Z motor sat on my garage floor for about 6 years, neglected, untouched. When I dropped it onto the 240Z, it was in great shape upon inspection, and turned over easily by hand. I squirted some WD-40 into the spark plug holes about 4 years into the neglect. Before I re-ignited the motor, I did, pour oil over the cam, and cranked the starter with no ignition to build some oil pressure. Here is the motor firing after over 6 years on the garage floor.