cygnusx1

If it's not a survivor wearing original paint, but the repaint is at least as good and comprehensive as the factory paint job was, I think it does not matter what color it is, the value will be stable...assuming you don't pick too eccentric a color or scheme.

It's a D.D. so use the speaker holes for speakers. Might as well. Just get some decent looking speaker grills. Save the 240 panels for a resto.

Nice ride, I am sure whatever you paid it will be worth it. I like it. MORE PICS!!

I believe my air dam is a Xenon. I bought it over 20 years ago from a place in NY called Impact Parts. I remember driving the Z there and then stuffing the spoiler in the hatch to bring it home. It is urethane which is why it has lasted so long.

I solid mounted the 72 bumpers to my 76. On the rear sides, I used a rubber washer, about 1/4" thick, right on the mounting bolt between the body and the bumper tab. On the front, I installed some clear 3M film to protect the paint, and then pulled the bumper as tight to the body work as I could. I have the front bumper pulled in really tight to the body for the look I wanted.

Why, do you suspect, did the first flasher unit not work? Glad to hear you got it working though! Very excited to see the results.

Yes, Pipe wrenches are indispensable in any toolbox. They provide the grip of death to anything short of hard chrome. My inner tie rod had a slight amount of play on the drivers side in my 280Z. When I got it apart, I saw no visible sign of excessive wear or damage so I simply fit a washer behind the spring to increase the preload slightly. I don't endorse this, but I like to be frugal sometimes, and tend to "make due" when I can. Let the flames begin.

I believe I loosened mine with a punch and hammer, but a spanner wrench might be the right tool.

Kind of like the rear control arms...sort of.

Forestry work sounds good to me, except, are there forests in NJ? . Maybe I will just switch out all the corner marker lights, plate, dome, and tails, to LED, but leave the rest alone. That should lighten some load and still leave the blinker circuits factory.

Watching this like a hawk! Thanks for the info so far and keep us up to date. Did you select wide or narrow angle LED's? and does the factory flasher relay work with the lower LED currents?

If they ran fine before, you most likely have the wrong float levels. I have found that setting the float levels by measuring between the cover and the float is only half accurate. The best bet is to remove the butterfly caps when the carbs are full of fuel, and measure the fuel level with a "dipstick" of sorts. Higher fuel levels bring the main jets on sooner...and vice versa. BTW I have a friend that I lost communications with who lives in Boynton Beach. He drives a blue corvette with a tan ragtop last I heard. From your photos, it looks like he might even live near you.

I have to say that the MSA set worked for me. Just saying. Not trying to sway your decision but just my 2 cents.

Waaaay to go!!! Make it rock and roll....THEN make it pretty. That's the right way to do it! Enjoy every minute of it.

Where in Italy are you? I know of a fine fellow Italian that has a beautiful Silver 240Z, and might be more than willing to advise you. I think Switzerland has had a pretty active Z car club also. Start here> http://www.zhome.com/IZCC/ClubMaster96.html http://zhome.com/Dec99/Italy.htm DO NOT BUY A CAR ON EBAY BECAUSE IT SAYS "NO RUST". You need an honest inspector. Ciao.

Who's silver turbo 280Z is that? I have an affinity for silver turbo 280Z's.

Looks great! I didn't even know that was an option. ;-)

You can probably get an exact replacement through Mcmaster.com if you know the dimensions of it. In that size you might need to buy a pack of ten though. They are fairly cheap. Check the material compatibility chart on the same site. I think Buna, Viton, or Silicone will work for fuel. I think Viton would be the best bet.

I think he only shows loss on public TV...IRS might be watching.

Thanks for the synopsis Jeff. Very interesting.

I can't imagine that the driving experience of a 350Z or 370Z can be nearly like any S30. Can it? I need to try it myself, but I would be very surprised. I am not saying one is better than the other. I just can't imagine them being remotely similar, asides from the front engine RWD layout, characteristics.

I saw a preview of the new episode that will air tonight. I saw what looked like a Z (maybe Big Sam?) and some other Nissan race cars in the creation of the ultimate collection. It airs at 10pm east. I hope it's not another "Al Capone's vault." If so, I apologize in advance. :laugh:

Check out alsacorp.com for some cool stuff.

I haven't tried the Eastwood kit but it looks awfully familiar. In the hobby world there is a paint system made by Spastix. It's a high gloss black base coat and then a chrome coat for a top coat. Both are in rattle cans. I tried it on a plastic spoon. That is not a metal spoon. It is a white plastic cafeteria spoon with the paint on it. The spoon on the right was clear coated. Unfortunately, the coating is very fragile, and when I tried to topcoat with a clear, almost all of it's "chrome" look turned into a cast aluminum look. Next I tried to just dip it in epoxy to cover up the chrome. Better, but still not great. It looks great at first, but it's fragile, and seems impossible to topcoat with a clear. In all fairness, this chrome is designed to be sprayed INSIDE a clear lexan body shell to create a chrome look from the outside. Might be cool to make chrome headlight covers!

Personally, I would not sweat the difference in engine sizes. In fact the 240Z may be quicker, due to it's lighter weight. Also the motor rev's nicer and feels livelier with the carbs and smaller displacement. Adding liters was a band-aid to cover up weight.