cygnusx1

Making it run that badly, I would start thinking about an AFM, the AFM connector, or ECU connector, IF the fuel pump and pressures are good.

Absolutely! Download the original factory manual and it gives HIGHLY detailed step by step instructions and specifications. It also has a beautiful trouble shooting chart. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html There are three sensors that I remember...coolant temp sender for the EFI, thermo-time switch for the ignition timing/cold start injector, and the sender for the temp gauge in the dash (the one that has the broken wire in your car). I am going to the manual now....

Thanks Tomohawk. Those things are tiny. Would be cool to cover the entire exterior of the car with those! You'd be able to see it from space.

The "LED" strips that I used for the third brake light and for my halo effect are actually "SMD", sub-micro-diodes?, embedded in a clear silicone strip. They power directly off of 12v DC. They appear pretty bright at dusk and in daytime shade but they do get drowned out by the headlights at night, or in direct sunlight. They were designed for illuminating personal computers. I am not sure is they are the same product as Dave used on his car. His look very bright. Either way, ask any motorcyclist, more light is better, even if you are accused of being "blingy". With today's number of inattentive "drivers" on the road, brighter is better.

Even if you can see the rear upper weather strip in your mirror, the way my LED strip is mounted, it points directly backwards. You can not see it at all in the mirror; not even a reflection of it. You can hardly see it at all when you are standing behind the car, unless it's lit.

That shot was taken with my little Panasonic FX35 in automatic mode. The garage was dimly lit and the flash did fire. I did manually drop the exposure by -1EV. Most point and shoots overexpose, which is impossible to correct, so I usually keep mine manually underexposed. Simply try reducing the exposure on your camera.

Not quite R8 but... I like the way you laid yours out too. Horizontal layout was my first thought but I wanted to go a little BMW and a little Audi.

Rush are an amazing group of musicians. Can you take a photo of the sensors to help ID them? Also you need to make sure the temp sender for the ECU is giving you the proper resistance values. If it's out of spec, it could cause weird fuel mixtures and rough running for sure.

Is your cold start injector stuck open or closed? Does the spec fuel pressure remain in the rail for at least a few minutes after the car has been turned off? It should. Distributor cap, rotor, and wires checked or changed? Check the CTS, coolant temp sender and it's signal path back to the ECU for proper R vs Temp values. System fuel pressure should never be able to exceed that which is specified in the manual, regardless of whether the injectors are firing or not. If spec pressure was exceeded for some reason, the fuel return circuit is suspect, including the FPR. As the cold weather approaches, the injector hoses are notorious for leaking. Tighten them a bit.

It might burn the coating around the fitting though. Not the end of the world.

I agree with Carl. Many of these "restoration" places need to be rudely awakened. My buddies 72 Challenger convertible is undergoing a three year resto-rape as well. Peppered with excuses and shoddy workmanship. The worse part is that the shop continues to hold the vehicle, and the cash. His legal advisor says that there is not much he can do. Sorry to hear that after three years the Z is not in a deserving condition.

Very nice! It scared me when the camera flipped. I thought the car rolled over!

Did it break free because of rust or just a weld/solder separation? I am sure it can be repaired if the surrounding metal is clean.

My '72 sat for 23 years with gas in the tank. After draining out the molasses-like fuel. I dropped the tank and brought it to a tank shop. The crust was so bad that the shop did not want to mess with it. I found a better, cleaner tank, and then used a DIY tank cleaning and coating kit from KBS. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/ It worked well but you MUST follow every step exactly. Watch their videos. They are helpful. BTW The gunk is probably a varnish formed from old fuel.

You have a better stomach than I do. Good luck with the repairs!

The second pic is nice but the stop sign and man-lift growing out of the hood and roof, is a photographers no-no. I love the next to last one as well. The car looks great.

I have one in my garage...analog though. Sorry ;-)

Very sweet. Maybe you'll get to drive it before Winter sets in hard. I love the color of the car. I also used the Duplicolor paints on my recent resto-mod. Your project sounds very similar to the one I just finished.

Actually it is possible but you aren't going to save much time/labor. The outer rear bushings are arguably, the most difficult parts to access on an S30. Besides, since you just had them out, it should be easy. It's always easier the second time.

it ends with "meeee." My wife is calling a shrink now. :stupid:

I drove an Alfa, have no hair to dress, don't dress anyone else's hair, but I still annunciate a "Z" to rhyme with B, C, D, E, G, P, T, and V.

I can't answer your question exactly but I can give you some advice. When the exhaust manifold gets hot, the unburned fuel mixture can ignite in the manifold causing a backfire. To exacerbate the situation, an exhaust manifold leak can allow oxygen into the manifold for even more likelyhood of combustion. Chirping, is the sound that a leaking exhaust manifold gasket often makes. Under load, an exhaust manifold leak can sound like a loud ticking that could be confused with valve noise. All in all, I am betting on you needing a new gasket. If you do, check the manifolds for straightness.

With my setup, you really have to look hard to notice any light in the hatch. I would say it's about 99% invisible to you in the rear view, when the brakes are applied. When the brakes are off, 99% of the onlookers never ever notice it.

Which valve are you referring to?

Open the heater valve by putting the HVAC controls to the heating position. Nose the car down a hill, or jack up the rear end after opening the drain **** on the bottom of the radiator. Then jack the front up and fill it with antifreeze mix. Squeezing (pumping the radiator hoses) helps to push the fluids around a little. Getting the coolants to flow by cranking or gravity is much easier if you remove the thermostat (optional). Plug the vents in the inner fenders inside the engine bay, and the air intake, with steel wool wrapped in a baggie, or something the mice won't chew. Place a note on the steering wheel to REMOVE THE BLOCKAGES BEFORE DRIVING. Get the car on jackstands OR at least put about 50psi in the tires to keep them round. Fuel stabil is a good idea. 10 months should be a walk in the park. No problem if the car is kept relatively sheltered. Put the battery on a charge tender, or put it in a car that will be used regularly. A secured car cover is a good idea too.