cygnusx1

I drove an Alfa, have no hair to dress, don't dress anyone else's hair, but I still annunciate a "Z" to rhyme with B, C, D, E, G, P, T, and V.

I can't answer your question exactly but I can give you some advice. When the exhaust manifold gets hot, the unburned fuel mixture can ignite in the manifold causing a backfire. To exacerbate the situation, an exhaust manifold leak can allow oxygen into the manifold for even more likelyhood of combustion. Chirping, is the sound that a leaking exhaust manifold gasket often makes. Under load, an exhaust manifold leak can sound like a loud ticking that could be confused with valve noise. All in all, I am betting on you needing a new gasket. If you do, check the manifolds for straightness.

With my setup, you really have to look hard to notice any light in the hatch. I would say it's about 99% invisible to you in the rear view, when the brakes are applied. When the brakes are off, 99% of the onlookers never ever notice it.

Which valve are you referring to?

Open the heater valve by putting the HVAC controls to the heating position. Nose the car down a hill, or jack up the rear end after opening the drain **** on the bottom of the radiator. Then jack the front up and fill it with antifreeze mix. Squeezing (pumping the radiator hoses) helps to push the fluids around a little. Getting the coolants to flow by cranking or gravity is much easier if you remove the thermostat (optional). Plug the vents in the inner fenders inside the engine bay, and the air intake, with steel wool wrapped in a baggie, or something the mice won't chew. Place a note on the steering wheel to REMOVE THE BLOCKAGES BEFORE DRIVING. Get the car on jackstands OR at least put about 50psi in the tires to keep them round. Fuel stabil is a good idea. 10 months should be a walk in the park. No problem if the car is kept relatively sheltered. Put the battery on a charge tender, or put it in a car that will be used regularly. A secured car cover is a good idea too.

I dont get any glare, but I can tell the light turns on by the faint red glow.

I agree, this should be a MUST for all you guys and gals that drive their S30's in traffic. Nice work. I just used a simple stick on strip of LED lights. Not as bright as yours but better then nothing. Too bad I thought of it AFTER my Z was rear ended by an SUV.

Well, it was very oxidized, weathered, worn, and dirty. It arrived in ripped, scrambled, boxes of random greasy parts, with rusty steel wheels, no engine, no carpets, ripped seats, and a barren engine bay. The chassis was pretty straight and rust free, the dash, glass, and weather stripping, were near perfect, and I was told that I was getting all the parts I would need to put it back together, which is why I bought it. It was about as "basket case" as I ever want a car project to begin with. I can't do "real" body work or welding/cutting, so this was right up my alley.

Took the 240Z out for a shakedown, testing my new camera mount, before the road trip to the annual Connecticut Z Club barbecue tomorrow. Here is a 20 minute drive showing some nice roads. At one point the radiator cap let out a bunch of coolant but you can't see it in the video. I replaced the cap and will keep fingers crossed for tomorrow. I had to hose down the engine bay. Enjoy the ride. It gets fun around the 7:20 minute mark. http://www.streetfire.net/video/a-long-scenic-drive-in-a-240z-in-the-fall-2010_2070446.htm

Oh the deals you guys find for clean cars on the left coast makes me cringe. Good luck and I eagerly await updates!

Yes, you may loosen the clip a tad, if you feel like you will crack the windshield with the pressure needed. I loosened mind a tad with a large flat bladed screw driver and a vice. It went on much easier with no apparent ill effects.

My 72 basket case came with a paper trail from the original owner until it was parked in 1987. It has to be about 100 pages of stuff, plus manuals and other neat stuff from the original sale. I need to find a ring binder with plastic sleeves so I can display it all. I also got to speak with the original owner's husband at length on the phone. I took notes, and am in the process of writing a short story about the history of the car that will also detail what I have done with it.

+1 with Dave. My 240Z runs that EXACT setup 225 (all around)but it's lowered with 1" Tokico springs and it does not rub. However, on my 280Z the exact same wheels/tires with 1" drop DO rub on heavy dips in the road. Go figure. PS There is more clearance up front than in the rear when it comes to the fender arches. Also, 215 will work on an 8" rim but will look a bit stretched.

All 1979-1983 280ZX motors fit.

Here is a tip that I assume most people know about. Set your steering column in it's center lock position with the key out. The steering wheel should be dead straight when in that position. Center lock is also your center reference when you reinstall the wheel. This will also reveal if someone installed the wheel crooked and then aligned the front end to the crooked wheel. Yes, it happens. The wheel resto's look GREAT!

Either completely untouched, OR clean, easily reversible upgrades that would leave no evidence if brought back to original. Intact factory harnesses and plugs. Note: Here is where it gets tricky. A really poorly preserved car, with rust, dust, faded paint, torn upholstery with a cracked dash could be considered "unmolested" as long as it has ONLY been "molested" by time.

I think Toyota may have used the same bolt pattern for a while.

Here is a local fellow, Jason, that repaired the cracks and then flocked the dash. I think it looks phenomenal. Read through the thread starting here. http://nyzcc.com/forums/s30-series/433?start=40

Many people scoff at my dash toupee but I think it keeps the two biggest crack promoters off the dash; the sun and the heat. I apply some Vaseline and then install the dash carpets. It keeps the glare off the windshield as well. Of course, parking them indoors is a big plus also. You can always remove the toupee for shows.

Hagerty has given me no issues, and I use my Z's as I please. I even used them for a major claim on my turbo 280Z. They have been nothing but great. They haggled with the resto shop to keep my Z from being totalled. Whatever you do, stay about 10% - 15% above what the car would cost to replace. Ask me how I know.

POR15 applied properly is really tough stuff.

Makes sense. I thought maybe he had sold them off or something.

I was watching an episode of "My Classic Car" where they visited the Lane Motor Museum, and I spotted a few Z's in the background. Upon visiting their website, I found no Datsuns listed. Hmm? Anyone know why? http://lanemotormuseum.org/Cars/

Glad to hear she was OK. Some, if not all the Subies, feature a Boron steel hoop that runs up the B-pillars and over the roof. There is a memo that went out to all the fire and rescue squads on how to cut through that hoop in the event of a roof removal procedure. The jaws won't cut it!

I bet they run ballast and I notice a degree or two of forward rake.