cygnusx1

Thanks. rockauto.com has the fuel pump inertia switch for $23.00. Small price to pay for safety. Unfortunately they also want $25.00 for the connector but I can make that up. AIRTEX Part # 1S3906

I searched "fuel pump wires". Didn't find out any detail on how to make the pump crash/stall safe on a 240Z. I figured that there was a way through the alternator output, but the oil pressure switch is a neat trick too. I also see listed, at rockauto.com some pump control switches that look like roll-over protection. They may be mercury switches, not sure.

My 72 will be getting Webers so I installed an electric fuel pump. It was nice of Datsun to give us pre-installed wires for the pump. They run from the radio area back to the fuel level sender area. A black and a green wire with T-Connector up front, and bullets in the back. Now that the pump is connected to the bullet connector out back, what should I do with the T connector up front? I need switched power for the green wire and I suppose I can just ground the black wire. But this is a fuel pump we are talking about. What is the proper way to wire a fuel pump so that it stops pumping if the engine stalls? In the 280Z, Nissan used a switch in the AFM. What do we use in a 240Z?

I just put in a two-spade electronic flasher and my flashers still dont flash. The hazards worked and still work (all four), but the car came with no T/S flasher unit in it so I picked one up, stuck it in, and no dice! Do I need a three-spade electronic flasher? or should I hunt down some other issue? There are only two wires under the dash, green and white female spades. Also two bullet connectors that I think were for the key buzzer.

Haha, just finished watching it and came here to see this thread. It's funny every time.

Thanks, I have studied factory Z manuals for hours and weeks, but I have never had a 260Z one, so all this is foreign to me. I know the 280's like the back of my hand, and I am just about done learning the 240Z's, but the 260Z is still a mystery to me. Thanks for the enlightenment.

Steve, do you have any clue what the "Emergency Switch" is and where it is located? I see it on your diagram but don't know what it refers to in the car.

I agree. I am half purist and half....well, un-pure, and I approve of this! Not that it matters ;-) It's one more low VIN Z saved from the crusher, being put to it's intended use. Yup, that is a Northeast car! Some do survive.

Been a while and I have some more progress. I shared pics at other sites. I'll post here too for the non-crossovers. ;-) The interior is almost complete. The engine bay is almost fully dressed. The car is ready for wheels. Once it's rolling, I will back it outside and build the motor for it. I polished up the paint on the drivers front fender. Lots of "age" on the paint. It came out really nice though. I hope the rest of the paint comes out as nicely.

Looks like you have the plastic spacers between the carbs and the intake. When the O-Rings in the spacers lose their elasticity, they leak. Eventually you will have a vacuum leak as well, if you don't yet. If the covers are leaking you can just buy a gasket kit for the carbs. It's not that hard to open them up and change gaskets. I bought a bunch of O-rings from Mcmaster and can sell you a set of them if they are the same as the ones in my Weber plastic spacers. Cheap. I have a ton of them.

4030K is only 4Mb right? That's an easy upload. Anyone can handle that size. Vimeo has a 500Mb limit, for example.

What you want to do is "upload" the movie. In order to resize it you need to bring it into a special program. Windows Movie Maker works well and is included in most versions of Windows. Alternatively, you can sign up for a free Vimeo.com or Youtube.com account and upload it there. If it's under their size limitations, they will take it and convert it automatically.

The dovetails were not the problem in my case. Hopefully it's that simple for you though.

Right after I cleared an entry way into the car, I was able to back it easily out of the snow bank. I went for a drive to shake off the snow like a dog coming out of water. ;-)

I have seen many many Z's with this same alignment problem. Rumor has it that they even came like that from the factory. Recently, I had a body shop take a look at that same left rear corner of my 280Z and they had to lower the entire hatch seal lip to get it to line up. They did it by "bending" the rear deck area and lip down just a hair. Another alternative would have been to trim the metal lip that retains the hatch seal. Anyone else have a fix for this? Before: (original non-accident factory mis-alignment) After:

Wow we got hammered. Wet sticky heavy snow took down tons of trees, which blocked half of all roads and took out power to a few hundred thousand homes. We lost power for three days. Luckily, no trees hit our house, we had a generator, and a wood stove. Here is my back yard after the second day of snow. The shed contains my 1976 Turbo 280Z.

1976 Bumpers and shocks removed, front and rear. Installed 1972 bumpers. Air damn did not change.

Never measured it with a ruler. I swear. Seriously. It jumps really far if you have the courage to hold a plug boot away from the plug with your bare hands. MUCH further than any stock Z system.

Wow lots of switches,relays, and logical wiring. George Orwell missed it by 9 years.

Steve what does the interlock system in the 260Z entail?

The switch is IDENTICAL to the reverse switch. Napa lists the two with the same part number, but AutoZone lists them separately. $11 at Autozone for the Neutral and $24 for the reverse(NLA). So just go to Autozone and buy a neutral safety switch if you need a reverse switch. It's cheaper AND available for $11 ;-) The neutral switch screws into the upper tail of the trans on the passengers side. My 76 280Z 4-speed had a blank boss but no sensor. My current four speed has the sensor. It must be either a 73 or 74 trans??

I edited my post with your option.

There are no balance tubes so I think the bolts will easily pull it flat against the head. Give it a try but tighten it from the outside in. Torque the first and last bolts then work towards the middle. See if that works. Do a dry run with no gasket and check with a feeler after its torqued. If not, have it milled and have the shop make you up some custom stepped washers.

Great! Then I need to ID which two harness wires will need to short out, to eliminate the neutral switch. I have never owned an automatic so I have some questions for those that do: In a 72 automatic Z car..what gadgets were in place to prevent the car from starting? I will need to bypass these gadgets when it comes time to fire the baby up. I want to find them NOW while the car is on stands and in parts. Neutral Switch? Seat switch? Seat belt switches? Retina Scanner? (just kidding) ??? any more Walter, I agree! I have driven stick all my life, and I am 42 now. I can't physically turn the ignition key unless I wiggle the shifter first ;-) Who needs interlocks!

Keep your eyes pointed where you want the car to go. Be smooth. Don't over shift; try to do it with as few gear changes as possible, and focus on corner speeds. Learn to watch the corner workers, wave at the flagmen so you learn to watch them. Glance at the gauges once or twice per lap. Drive within you and your cars limits. POST THE VIDEO!!!!!! I think Vimeo.com will accept video right out of the GoPro cam.