cygnusx1

That's OK, I already have the Datsun I want.

$5.00/gal is enough to make me AND my Z's depressed for sure.

Plugs and wires? You might have the wrong spec in the car.

I hate to ask but have you tried another set of plug wires and plugs?

Love the color. My favorite as of late. Next time I come down to MD I'll chime in.

I can vouch that after 1976, 280Z doors will not work on anything earlier, without a lot of modification.

Possible rust on the lower passengers side front fender. Some strange lighting or rust on the driver's side rear rocker panel seam. Also, both lower front fenders are curled up a little, just behind the front wheels (a pet peeve of mine but an easy fix). Good luck on the negotiation. You have plenty of ammo.

Found this one that looks very interesting. http://thewestcoastclassics.com/detail/396-datsun-240z-1971 I would question the missing paint on the front of the driver's door jamb, what's hanging from under the glove box area, and whether or not the dash has a cap or cracks on it. Definitely negotiable price and with parts from your old Z, this one would be sweet.

NOT the second one for sure. Don't jump on anything right away. Take your time and the right one will come through. The first one is nice but there are others. I would hold out for a 71 or earlier if you can wait for it.

Watch this http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/en/don_norman_on_design_and_emotion.html

A 280Z bumper would have helped. A 240Z Bumper would have helped to build up the repair bill. Sorry to see this.

Phenominal ideas. I wish you had posted those 4 days earlier. ;-) McMaster threaded rod or studs would have been perfect to slip the trans into place. I found a plastic cap that is the perfect size to slide INTO the rear seal. It makes a perfect seal. Sometimes it helps to leave the trans in 4th or 5th gear so you can twist the output shaft a little, to get the clutch splines to mate.

I sold all the rubber from my 76 last year. It was in excellent shape. I seem to remember that there was overmolded metal in the parts. Judging from the metal that was visible and the stiffness of the part, I assumed there was metal structure in it. Could be wrong.

I think they tend to warp with age but first make sure you have the bumper as high as it can go by using the slop in all the mount points; including the shock mounts. Then you may be able to file the holes in the rubber strip to lower it even more. You may also try to bend the internal metal structure of it.

Me too, but they smell like wet dog...must get new ones.

I did it myself just yesterday. Took me about 4 hours. My arms and shoulders are sore today (I am no weight lifter). I was using a regular floor jack, pumping it up with my leg and guiding the trans with both arms. Laying on the cold floor was no fun.

She saved your life. Glad you are here to post it. The car can be replaced. Save the VIN and ID plates if you can, as mementos, that you can frame along with photos of her. Feel better soon.

Here you see about 150k miles with about 30k of those miles running 16psi boost making 300+ wheel horsepower, with stock long block. Bores still have the factory hatch. I was changing the head gasket. Later I turned up the wick to 18psi and eventually shatterd three piston skirts. The bores still looked fine. I bored it anyhow. In my book, with new pistons and rings, with over 150k miles, merits a rebore. Ultimately as the guys said, it's about the measurments, not what it looks like. Interestingly, even though my bores were slightly out of spec in taper and ovality, you could still see the crosshatch all over. What does that mean? A) either the factory never made perfect bores in the first place. or the block deforms with age. c) or true measurements were not obtained because I didn't use a torque plate to mimic the force from the head bolts. D) all of the above.

Piston skirt scuffs are not indicators of problems at all. That's normal. Even low mile pistons can look like that. You can probably throw in new rings, give it a hand hone, and be OK for another 200k but while it's apart...nuff said.

Yup bore it. It will be good for another 200k miles. Make sure you involve the machinist with the pistons and rings before he does the boring. He needs to check all the clearances specific to the supplied parts. rpmrons.com has tons of valuable info that is interesting and informative. The layout of the site is a bit rough, but it's worth the dig.

Have a look-see at these photo gems I found in cyberspace. Scroll to the year appropriate galleries to see the Datsuns. I love the photo of Paul Newman in Oldsmobile colors. http://www.comicozzie.com/gallery2/main.php another example:

sblake...just playing around. I don't smoke either...never have. Z fumes are plenty. Dennis, you overlook that the, infinitely more complex to manufacture, model car, on top of the box, costs about $5.50 and a quarter to make. By contrast, I could probably replicate that "wooden drive box" (I like the pun), for around the same cost (sans drive), or even much less, when mass produced. Visions of the toy headlights flashing on read/write, make me warm and fuzzy all over! No snuggie needed.

I am not wearing a Z snuggie, unlike sblake , (does it get cold enough in Cali for snuggies anyhow?), but I do have a Datsun on my desk. It would be cool if that "Desksun" had a purpose besides wasting my desk real estate. Maybe the Californians would be better served by a satin "smoking snuggie" for dealing with the three or four dreary days every millennium.

all the naysayers. Snuggie. ??

It is a good idea. At first I thought, why? poo poo...but then I realized that something like this is what turns people into millionaires.