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cygnusx1

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Everything posted by cygnusx1

  1. cygnusx1
    If you know it's going to run better at speed, you can be more tolerant of the poor startup. ;-)
  2. cygnusx1
    You can ask whatever you want....
  3. cygnusx1
    How much money do you have in the car already, and how long have you owned it? If I didn't have a ton of dough in it already, and I got good use out of it, I would not worry about how much I sell it for. Put it on ebay with bidding, to see what it's worth. However, DO NOT start a refresh project on that car. You will be wasting your time and money. I am not going to put a number on it, but I am going to tell you NOT to put any more money into it. That's my advice. Find a cleaner chassis, unless you are a great welder and painter, and have lots of free time. 240/280 I don't care what the badge says. Common sense applies to both. P.S. Consider parting it out to maximize your profits.
  4. cygnusx1
    Exhaust, I agree, nothing in a can really works. Aluminum (non exhaust related), different story. My engine is going on 8+ years with the rattle can stuff, even the aluminum head painted with VHT is holding up. Polishing is nice too, but I like the cast look. I will do some sort of hot coating on the headers on my 240 someday too. I am tired of the rusty look. That intake was painted 8+ years ago and it's over a turbocharger: Here is 2003 when I first painted it:
  5. cygnusx1
    VHT is probably the thinnest spray coating that I have ever used from a rattle can. I am sure it's thermal barrier properties are negligible for automotive applications. Their engine paints make claims that they have low thermal barrier properties. From what I have seen, I believe it.
  6. cygnusx1
    VHT brake caliper paint stands up to almost anything. It is a bit brighter than bare aluminum at first but it does dull down with heat cycles and age. It's still much nicer than aluminum oxide pittting.
  7. cygnusx1
    I think the BRZ weight goal was around 2500lbs with a 53F-47R distribution. Pretty darn close to a Z.
  8. cygnusx1
    http://classicshowcase.com/index.php/inventory/detail/8 I wish my pockets didn't have holes in them. :mad: ...or plan-B if you live in the UK--> http://www.ycsc.co.uk/vehicle%205.html
  9. cygnusx1
    Aluminum flake brake paint in a rattlecan. Looks exactly like fresh cast aluminum and will last a looooong time on drums, with a non-daily driver. If it chips or gets grungy, a can of brake-kleen and a fresh coat of spray good for another 5-10 years. Cheap and effective. Put the money elsewhere. I swear by this. http://www.amazon.com/Corvette-Paints-Silver-Brake-Caliper/dp/B001M9FZLW
  10. cygnusx1
    BAT? What's that.
  11. cygnusx1
    Article mentioning a 240Z: http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20120208/LIFESTYLE/120209667/1010/sports?Title=Greg-Graziano-s-unique-path-to-success
  12. cygnusx1
    This is my 72 It has horizontal glass. I am second owner and the original owner spoke about it being repainted after a hailstorm in the mid 80's... I think the receipts include a new hood and hatch. This may explain my horizontal lines, unless it was a build transition anomaly prior to VIN 62001.
  13. cygnusx1
    I don't dispute linkage versus cable. When I say "linkage", I mean anything in between your foot and the throttle plate. That does include your shoes. I imagine cables can be more reliable than mechanical joints. Whatever it is that you use, should be buttery smooth, and allow very small throttle changes with no "stepping". Smooth driving is imperative for performance. I have driven Z's with stock throttles, that made smooth driving impossible. I am sure there are many out there, that don't even realize they have an issue.
  14. cygnusx1
    Very nice work and the car reflects that.
  15. cygnusx1
    Can you share your experience with this? When I had my crank out, I considered doing it, but I ended up leaving it alone.
  16. cygnusx1
    Smooth linkage with low friction is so underrated. You don't know what you've been missing until the linkage is working properly. Going from a sticky linkage to a smooth linkage, changes the whole operation of the car. It even effects the infamous rear end clunk in a positive way. The ball end link will pry off with a flat screwdriver, and snap back on with a channel lock. I usually protect the plastic ball with tape first.
  17. cygnusx1
    Some Z's go through "framerails-rusted-off", or "floors-rusted-off", restorations...but that's different than "frame-off", for sure.
  18. cygnusx1
    Nice, I can't wait until each of my Z cars can fetch $60,000. I guess I'll have to wait until next year too.
  19. cygnusx1
    Thanks Mitchell, but I would gladly trade my 240Z up to your Z any day! If I ever get caught up, and need a little side project, I'll give that Lokar kit a try.
  20. cygnusx1
    I have always had much success with the original linkage. If there is slop or stickiness in it, it's worn out, dirty, or maladjusted. Setup correctly, it should be as good as a cable. If you NEED to replace worn stock parts, then you might as well go to a cable though. Here is a little detail that I conjured up to assure a solid connection at the weakest link. Silicone rubber hose to replace the weak spring.
  21. cygnusx1
    When I had to pay sales tax at the DMV for my engine-less, disassembled, rolling chassis, 72, they said, according to their books, I needed to pay up taxes for a car worth $12,500. I had just paid around $3000 for the car! I know I paid a bit too much for that car at $3000, and now they wanted to tax me 8 point something percent, for $12,500 because I didn't bring the bill of sale with me. I took a trip to get the B.O.S., needless to say. I am not sure what "book" they were using to determine the value of the 72. It's funny that they just assume the car is worth $12,500 with total disregard to any other factors.
  22. cygnusx1
    Add up the parts, and the labor (which appears to be of top quality). $'s are in the details. When parts, build quality, and attention to detail come together, 2+2=5. Take a look at the door shot of the orange 240Z. The door frame area is iffy, as are the door seals. Disclaimer: Judging ONLY from the photos. I could be way off.
  23. cygnusx1
    They are worth what the market will bear. Silver 280Z and the BRE were good buy's. The 73 was overbought.
  24. cygnusx1
    Looks great, happy birthday, and finally, what cam is it?
  25. cygnusx1
    Correct. Additionally you can trace the wire from the fuel pump, from connector to connector. 77 uses the AFM contacts, and 78 uses an oil pressure switch to failsafe the fuel pump to the OFF position. Does your oil pressure sender have two wires on it, or is there an oil pressure switch on the block? If so, you have an oil-switched setup.
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