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cygnusx1

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Everything posted by cygnusx1

  1. I agree and disagree. I should have said, ASKING prices are starting to rise, which they are, BUT in this economic climate, there are many owners that need to thin out the fat. Those owners are listing low in comparison, and those are selling first, of course. But what we consider LOW now, was considered PREMIUM, in 2006. In 2006, $8000, for an average driven but clean 240Z was pretty high. Now it's considered fine, for an average driven car, in clean condition. But then again, what isn't more expensive now? This is strictly my loose observation. I, by no means, follow the market tightly. I bought cheap cars, and put in my sweat equity, over a very long period, with a very limited budget in mind. Not a business, or a serious investment for me. Just fun, and sanity.
  2. I recommend against doing anything. Just run modern oil which has excellent detergent properties, and the engine will self clean. Go ahead, next time your hands are dirty, use some fresh motor oil to clean them. You will see how well it actually works. Aggressive engine cleaning chemicals/procedures can cause particulate to come loose, and clog passages and/or become lodged in a bearing. 80K miles is almost within the break-in period for these L motors.
  3. Oh don't forget to also check the rear wheels for drag. They can certainly hang up and pull the car to a side. If you don't find anything obvious, bring your car to a shop with a modern wheel balance machine that tests "road force". They can tell you if your tires rolling resistance is off kilter.
  4. Do what doradox says first. But when the front end is up in the air, make sure there is no drag when you spin the wheel by hand.
  5. You can get RX7 pumps at Rockauto for $40. I chose the Facet because it was the right form factor for my current mount and hose routing. I had a regulator in line for the Holley adjusted to 3psi. When I installed the Facet, I didn't have to touch the regulator. Still sitting nicely at 3psi. I did some uphill, long pulls, at WOT and didn't notice any lack of fuel. As far as noise, once the car is running, even at idle, I barely hear the pump. My car is fairly loud though. When I find some appropriate rubber bushings around, I'll put them in between the pump and the bracket. That should really quiet it down.
  6. Yeah, they make three styles of pump. I think the one that I got is their "gold" series which hopefully...means it will last. .
  7. I removed the Holley Red this morning and installed the Facet. The facet was very easy to install and fit perfectly on the bracket I already had. I like the vertical configuration and that the fittings can line up nicely with the hoses. I also like the fact that I can remove the lower cap of the pump to change the internal screen. It is not quiet though. It's about 30% quieter than the Holley once it's primed up. I used the green fuel pump wire that is already in the 72 for +12v and since this pump is a chassis ground model, I ran the negative wire from the 72, to one of the pumps mounting lugs. I just hope this one is reliable... I finished just in time for our first snowfall. Forecast is 6"-10" tomorrow, and that means S-A-L-T.
  8. FYI, the Carter Pump P60504,specified for carbureted Mazda RX7's OEM replacement, is rated at 30GPH.
  9. Well maybe I'll just install both pumps with an A/B switch. That should be pretty safe. .
  10. I can't imagine my L28 sucking down 32 gallons in an hour. Even at continuous WOT. It's pretty much stock with 40 DCOE 151's.
  11. Thanks guys, I went to check out my Holley Red, and it was leaking fuel from the casing. Rather than try to fix it, I ordered the Facet FEP59SV. It looks like it will work with the bracket I fabricated for the Holley, and it has a built in fuel strainer. I already have an inertia switch to install. Mike, did you add a check valve to the pumps output? http://www.octaneautosupply.com/Engine-Management-Exhaust/Air-Intake-Fuel-Delivery/Fuel-Pumps/Facet-Purolator-FEP59SV-p5936799.html
  12. Yes, they call me up when I accidently order the wrong/year parts! Nice.
  13. I feel this is a great opportunity to promote downloading the original factory service manual. It's a great read, very interesting, and probably the best "time investment" you can put into your project. Especially since the car is staying in the family. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Enjoy the read! EVERYTHING you need to know is right there in black and white.
  14. I am sure you adjusted the float levels by bending the tabs right? Good. Next, you must confirm fuel level in the bowls. With the "hats" off the carbs, you can use a homemade dipstick. Low fuel level will make the fuel come into the engine later. BTW Throttle tip-in issues are at the top of the triple weber problems list. There are solutions and it's imperitive that your throttle plates are stopped in a position NOT exposing the progression ports.
  15. Either A) someone installed a steering damper on your car at some point. OR You picked up some road debris in the form of a shock, and it just fell off.
  16. It's not the noise of the Holley that bothers me, it's the sudden silence.
  17. Could it be a wheel sold out of one of the Bob Sharp Racing catalogs? Seems vaguely familiar. Especially with the red white and blue horn button insert.
  18. Twin Reds in parallel might be a good way not to get stuck when one fails. My 240 is a pretty loud car but at traffic lights and such, the pump wins the concert. I can't imagine two of them in a duet.
  19. I think they also had space saver spares, air cans, and criss cross straps. My friends 77 has the exact same deck as siteunseen.
  20. I think the changes from the carpet to the raised deck coincided with the size of the spare tire, and maybe even the fuel tank type. The sloped deck that eliminated the tail light panel, is the mystery.
  21. I can tell you with absolute certainty that at least the earlier 76 models had no wood/cardboard. Mine is a 4/76 and has the standard "240Z" style carpeting in the hatch.
  22. small coolant leaks tend to occur only while driving, and dry up by the time you even open the hood. Radiator pin-hole or a weeping waterpump is likely. Go borrow a pressure tester from the local auto parts store.
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