cygnusx1

I use the stock supply and return lines for the 72. My engine is a stock L28 with triples. If I got 10mpg all day I still should not outflow that pump. In theory the pump could be outflowing the return line. However, I get rock steady 3psi at the carbs at idle. I think it's just a semi poorly designed pump. Last time it locked up on me while I was driving, I pulled over and beat it with a rock from the edge of the road. The pump was barely warm to the touch. Four minutes later, it worked again.

Don't fret, my pump came used/free also. I think I will take it apart next chance I get, to see if it's anything obvious. Hmmmm, why are so many people giving away Holley Red fuel pumps?? That could be a clue. :stupid: I'll look into the Mazda pumps as well. Thanks.

I am running a Holley Red pump at the tank right now but it freezes up on me lately. It also sounds like a lawnmower under the car. Any relatively low cost ideas?

Thanks, grantf, I knew it existed but couldn't find any photos of it. My friends 78 has the sloped rear deck.

Unfortunately, or fortunately, an S30 makes a great blank canvass. Some choose to create art, some consider the canvass complete as-is, and some simply fail.

I spray painted my drums with silver brake caliper paint, years ago, and they still look great. I have had no issues with the paint, and they look good through the wheels.

As far as I have ever known, the 77's and 78's had the raised rear deck to make more room for the spare tire and tool kit. The deck rises towards the rear, up to a few inches from the hatch seal. I also don't think they have those handy tool bin storage areas just behind the seats, at the front of the rear deck. I think there are 4 or 5 wood/particle board sections to the raised deck. The front and rear are hinged together, and there are left and right sections. All of them are held up by stand-off brackets from underneath.

Use Poly on the FRONT of the TC bucket, and rubber on BACK of them. This gives the needed flexibility to reduce the bending stresses on the TC rods, and gives you all the benefits of poly. I disassembled, cleaned, and painted the entire underside/suspension/crossmember/drivetrain of my 240Z in about 2 months, on jack stands. I used all Duplicolor products. I got a barbecue brush with a scraper built into the tip, and brushed the entire undercoating clean. I then took the liberty to spray a very light coat of new undercoating under the entire car, and wheel wells. You might want to get new seals in the diff and the trans while it's all apart. Also consider, a new seal and o-ring for the speedometer pinion, and think about the ball joints if they are old. If you are dropping the entire suspension, there is much easier access to all those aforementioned things.

When my 280Z was lightly rear ended (wearing 240Z bumpers), the restoration shop cut off the valence, straightened all the metal behind the valence, painted and undercoated the areas, reformed the dented valence, and welded it back into place.

Check my "garage"

80's vintage BMW 3 series iS models, had awesome Recaro seats in them, that fit the Z, with some brackets and spacers. I have a photo somewhere in my photo gallery here.

Running, turbo motors are probably more than $150. I would say that a greasy, well used, running, turbo motor with its ECCS injection system, would average around 500-1000. It will make the car much, much, quicker, so I suspect that you will take a pretty large penalty from the race organizers. Then brakes and tires become an issue as well. Considering your great placement at the end of this last race, you may already be sitting on the correct formula. Maybe you just need some spit and polish.

+1 on the L28ET swap. How big is your shoestring budget for the swap? I can detail the swap for you if you want.

My 72 uses the door switch to activate the key buzzer. I am not quite sure what happened, but my original switches were shot, so I ordered some non originals on ebay. They each only had one wire. Now my key buzzer goes on with the dome light, or with the open doors.

If you remove the handbrake assembly, like I did, you can fab up a 1/4" - 3/16" thick aluminum plate with two holes that line up with the tap holes in the tunnel. I used a large o-ring, think vacuum cleaner drive belt, as the gasket between the tunnel and the aluminum plate. You can use the o-ring trick even if you leave the handbrake in place.

Hey $50,000 is still a lot of money for a Datsun. The car they chose is perfect for the cause. An under-privledged Datsun helping under-privledged children.

http://www.prweb.com/releases/2011/9/prweb8791119.htm The first Datsun to be valued at $1 million will shortly be travelling from London to Cape Town to raise funds and awareness on behalf of under-privileged children in India and South Africa......

EF Engine Fuel.pdf Procedures for verifying temperature components in the 280Z

I think thermistors are reverse. The resistance decreases as the temperature increases.

Yup it was me who had weak back brakes on the 77 ZAP I just worked on. It took a while to get the new brake shoes to finally take a "bite" in the drums. In retrospect, I should have used a lower grit emery paper to surface the drums. I think I used 400 or 600 grit. The FSM calls for the right way to prep the drums. The performance shoes from MSA that I used, are already beveled on the leading and trailing ends. +1 on the MSA braided brake hoses.

If you wire it like I did, the key buzzer screams at me when I open the doors with the key in the ignition AND when I turn on the dome lamp. Ughh. I think the drivers side switch is a two-wire switch and I used a one-wire switch instead.

I painted my Z silver so I could use that pen to touch up any chips...and it works! I did the same thing.

Simply PERFECT! I think the tail muffler can be turned around end to end, 180 degrees, and tucked fully up into the space behind the wheel.

I stick about a 2"x2" pad of clear 3M Stoneguard film on the buckets, where each cover bracket is supposed to be drilled. Then I epoxy the brackets onto the stoneguard. If I ever need to remove the brackets, I can just peel off the stoneguard film with the bracket and epoxy, leaving no trace. When I do a track day, I run a 5" length of clear tape along the hoodline edge of the cover for added security at 130mph. The magnets are a great idea too. They are strong. I use them to keep the canopies on my RC Planes.

Sounds nice. Just a bit of my experience. The color of my engines changes with age. Maybe it's the constant heat cycling. The blues get a little dimmer and less intense with age. I am wondering if white would turn brownish to off-white as it aged. Just a thought. I have used both POR-15 Chrysler Blue, and Dupli-Color GM Blue to paint my engines. POR15 new: POR15 after 5 years: