cygnusx1

Right, because yours does not vapor lock, no cars with FI do? Read the FSM. What is the allowable decay time for the factory fuel pressure after shutdown?

They don't all do it. It depends on how much heat transfers into the fuel rail and injectors. How do you know it's not happening? If you have a wideband O2, it can correct for it and you would never feel it. Nice engine bay BTW. Can you watch the EGO correction factors in a cold vs hot start? Is the hood vented? Oh yeah and you are the "merchant of cool!"

Yes less likely to. But they still can and do. Saying that they DO NOT vapor lock is FALSE, especially in our older systems. Why else would Nissan add the cooling snorkel in the latest evolutions? For the comfort and pleasure of the injection system? As a matter of fact, the hot fuel that sits INSIDE the bodies of the hot injectors WILL flash vaporize when the injectors are first fired, as the pressure drops to near atmosphere for the split second, each time the pintle fires. Yes, it happens that quickly, and affects how the FI car runs, until it clears up with cooler fuel. Note: Nissan pointed the blower snorkel at the injector bodies, not the rail. I have datalogged the effect and can offer hard evidence of this. Vapor lock in the rail of a 240Z is the same as the vapor lock in an injector of a 280Z. Just on a different scale.

Here we go again. FI cars can, and do vapor lock. It's the fuel that vaporizes. Fuel does not care if the car is carb or EFI, if fuel gets hot enough to exceed vapor pressure...it vaporizes. In a hose, a bucket, a tank, a fuel rail, or ANYWHERE.

How else would you go about squeezing efficiency out of the L motor without going to internal engine work? Skinny tires, remove the side mirrors, driving habits, AND a modern engine management system? If it's not your daily driver, then don't bother because the payoff will be pretty far away. However, if you want to have fun, learn a ton about IC engines, and push your tuning skills into power and efficiency, an engine management system that is programmable, is an ice cream sundae. Do it because it's there.

You guys are digging up a dead horse and beating the skeleton. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/68628-batch-vs-sequential-injection-for-turbo-application/

Megasquirt tuning is really fun. You don't get that with the factory EFI. Worth it or not. ;-)

Hmm, interesting. Your passengers side door is a 77 or 78 and the latch has been converted too!

Awesome! Carpet kit, door seal, seat upholstery kit, brake overhaul, check the suspension, steering, and bushings over, and you have a great classic ride!

If you need any help. Hit me up. BTW Beautiful car! On a side note, I keep seeing those rear quarter arches on a lot of Z's. That rear wheel arch lip is not stock IMHO. What is the story with those? Here is the stock rear wheel arch lip. With about $2000 to $3000 dollars in parts, you can fix ALL the problems in your list and have a GREAT car. I wouldn't worry about paint bubbles unless they were caused by rust. Sometimes, like mine, they are just caused by poor prep work under the paint.

Oh I forgot to add the cost of the ford EDIS-6 ignition can be around $100 or less. I mounted the DIY Autotune trigger wheel to my stock crank pulley and fabbbed up a small bracket to hold the magnet. This thread is about the efficiency potential of the L. Without changing the fuel and spark system to a flexible system, you will not be able to "push" a given motor to its full potential in power and/or efficiency.

Lots of good info in this thread. I happen to make somewhere North of 350 crank hp so I need 440cc injectors. Stock injectors will work with MS just fine. MS2 is batch injection, there are two banks. They don't need to both fire at the same time. You can break up the banks and alternate them. I do. Just do it based on the firing order. It's not sequential but it works with almost zero practical pitfalls compared to sequential. I have zero issues idling with 440cc injectors. Although it might be better and snappier off idle with smaller ones. MS hardware can run from about $300 to about $1000 depending on how much DIY you do, and what bells and whistles you want to add. A decent wideband O2 system will run you around $200. It is an absolute must have. You can solder the entire thing from ziplock baggies of electronic parts if you want to save some cash. I bought the finished brain, the terminated cable, an LC1 wideband system, and a few temp senders. I think it was around $500 or so. I fabricated my own power and relay board.

MSII can work with a stock dizzy. It has a coil driver built into the board that you can use. I am NOT an electronics guy so I can't give you too much more than that, but I know it has those capabilities and more. DIY Autotune is a great place. Also check out MSEFI.com. Don't be afraid to give DIY a call or an email. They are very helpful. PS, I am sure you can use the vacuum advance OR block the mechanical functions and use the onboard MAP sensor to build a timing advance map based on RPM vs vacuum. The AFM becomes a restriction, but if you like it, you can keep it and use it. The MS system is totally flexible and the software is all open source so you can find a firmware version with the features you like and use it...or write your own. Go download the tuning software from DIY and play with it offline.

MS can run an AFM. At least I know MSII can. I have it turned off in my tune since I am using the MAP sensor built into the brain box. MS can run better and probably more efficient than the factory system...having said that, you will NEVER be done tweaking the tune, if you are like me. Seems like every little bump or burp I hear, I whip out the laptop and tune some more. It never ends. Sometimes I wish I had the stock system back and just drove it. It can be made to look totally stealthy installed in the car. You could probably use the factory EFI harness for most of the install if you wished to. I mounted my box under the drivers seat but it will mount in the stock location. Heck, it would probably fit into the original ECU case. My boost gauge is double taped on top center of the column clamshell. An AFR gauge could go there nicely as well.

My L28ET will not run smoothly at anything much above a 14.5:1 AFR with megasquirt. If I try REALLY hard, I could manage about a 22mpg. That's about it. The L motors LOVE to run on the rich side. They really don't seem to run smoothly, or make any smooth power/torque unless you feast them with gas. It might have everything to do with combustion chamber design. I am using 440cc Ford Lightning injectors made by Bosch. My megasquirt box happily runs a Ford EDIS-6 crank triggered ignition with no distributor of course. A nice healthy spark for sure.

+1 for a gorgeous 280Z with the 240Z look. I could feel the difference just from the weight loss of the 280 bumpers when I did the conversion.

He is just telling us what everyone else has heard for 40 years...not his fault. Don't shoot the messenger.

Shameless plug: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330580441715&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT This is the FIRST performance thing you should do. Right behind making the car road safe, ie. brakes, tires, ball joints...etc. Suspension and tire mods are useless if your steering rack moves 1/4" in either direction! Pop your hood, roll down the drivers window, now grab the steering wheel with your right hand(unless you have a Fairlady) and peer down at the rack while you rock the wheel. Is the rack moving? It shouldn't!

Nice. Someone giving attention to the Z cars at Disney...I'll check it out. My son will love it.

I can hear the vacuum leak. Look for it. Pull off the oil cap slowly. Does the idle change significantly worse? If not, you have a significant vacuum leak.

I have been hovering a 3D capable Micro RC heli for a couple of years now. I just can't bring myself to fly it around. I can see it cutting off my head. I am primarily an RC Plane pilot. Welcome aboard.

Improvements from the stock Z in order of effectiveness. 1) Poly rack bushings. 2) Front Spoiler. 3) RT Mount. 4) Plus sized wheels and tires 5) New shocks.

Wow that is really nice! When I run out of the other million things to do, I'll give it a shot. I suppose the plastic grip will not separate from the metal, to make it easier, will it?

Take out the rearmost exhaust stud and put in a long bolt, OR just slip a chain link over the stud, and secure it with a thick washer and a nut. I always do it that way. Of course this assumes that the tap hole in the head is in good order. make sure you get at least 3/4" of threads into the aluminum.

So if you work your way to the end of the trouble shooting algorhythms, what do they call it then?