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cygnusx1

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Everything posted by cygnusx1

  1. cygnusx1
    This is my personal series 1 wheel. This one came out like glass. Lots and lots of sanding from 400 to 800 to 1000 grit between all coats. NOT FOR SALE https://dcer.smugmug.com/Series-1-240Z-Wheel/
  2. cygnusx1
    Wow nice woodwork. I made a 15' curved handrail for my mezzanine almost using the exact same method. Offset segments routered into a smooth curve. My wheel has been sold.
  3. cygnusx1
    I find that on most series 1 wheels you don't really need a stain if you get them really clean. Just a GOOD cleaning, a proper regimen of careful sanding, and a proper application of your choice of semi-gloss, or gloss, spar urethane. The series 2 wheels seem a bit different. The one I just did, required bleaching, and a red stain, but I learn as I go. I will be listing this series 2, I just finished tonight.
  4. cygnusx1
    I have never used the international shipping feature before. I usually limit to the USofA. I will look into it, and thanks!
  5. cygnusx1
    Here is a link to my ebay ad. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-Datsun-240Z-Series-1-Steering-Wheel-OEM-Classic-/331782612391?hash=item4d3fc8e5a7:g:CFMAAOSwWTRWx1EI&vxp=mtr I host high resolution photos here. https://dcer.smugmug.com/Steering-wheel-1/ Thanks for looking
  6. cygnusx1
    Trudged through knee deep slurpie-like snow, about 200 feet back up the hill to the sheds where they have been sleeping, unseen, in total darkness, since, mid-November...To my dismay, I could only knock on the doors and say hello through the plywood. The snow is still too deep to unlatch the doors.... :-( <---yes that was my facial expression
  7. cygnusx1
    I'll sell my 72 S30 as it is, with "potential" to become a Z432, starting bids $50k hahah Call it the "base" kit for Z432 conversion. ;-) All kidding aside, it's nice to see some real money being thrown towards a classic Japanese sports car, that's not a Toyota.
  8. cygnusx1
    Chipping an early S30 EFI is as easy as.... I suggest these. http://www.kettlebrand.com/our_products/potato_chips/#/our_products/potato_chips/?pid=61
  9. cygnusx1
    I use the MS2 in my 280Z, but played around with the factory ECCS for years before I made the switch. Having said all that, the factory ECCs was VERY good for its time.
  10. cygnusx1
    Yes, I noticed the lambda reference, and the rev limiter, which the S30's don't have. I wonder if any of that L-Jet resistor info is translatable to the S30 boards, since they are of the same L-Jet family. I was mainly wondering how much of it is JECS design, and how much of it is just straight copy of the Bosch L-Jet design. The experiment could always be duplicated, so that the S30 ECCS could be more "tuneable", but in this day and age, it is much more wise to replace the whole thing with a modern programmable unit.
  11. cygnusx1
    Well, that info was for the L-Jetronic. I suppose we got the knockoff version in the 75-78 Z cars? JECS?
  12. cygnusx1
    Here is info I scavenged, from before Al Gore invented the internets. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/#entry896858
  13. cygnusx1
    I once tried side gapping an old set of NGK's and it made an appreciative difference in smoothness of idle, and smoothness of revving. I am not sure about the power, but it felt slightly torquier...of course that's completely unscientific. Save Gas And Incerase Horsepower By Side Gapping Spark Plugs I was inspired by the four electrode "Golden Lodge" plugs of my past Alfa Romeo.
  14. cygnusx1
    I have been looking at all these seat installs with custom plates and brackets but I find that, although they work, many seem too weak to hold the seat firmly fixed in an accident. As a back of the napkin suggestion, I would try to use at least 3/8" x 3" wide steel plates, and instead of flat bar, try to incorporate angle iron. Of course material size depends on the design of the mount... but whatever the case, you don't want that seat to move; the forces involved in a collision, can be enormous. The seat can't hold you in place if it's going to bend the mounting adapters. They should be strong enough to be able to yank the seat bolts right through the Datsun floor seat frames. They should not be the weakest link. Just my 2c.
  15. cygnusx1
    Sounding like a bad diff due to either the bearings, or uneven gear lash around the ring at this point. If it is wind noise, it should change by opening/closing windows.
  16. cygnusx1
    I figured he probably hit a racoon or a curb with it at some point. I wasn't sure because I have never seen FG valences in the after market. Must have been a long time ago. I have all the paperwork for the car. It shows the repaint due to hail damage in 1987, and the Nissan euro bumper new for $70 as a separate purchase. There is no mention of the valence, however.
  17. cygnusx1
    Tape up some body seams and test. Some other ideas...warped or dragging brake drums, worn shocks, misaligned u-joints, bent rim or stub axle, worn rear control arm bushings.
  18. cygnusx1
    I purchased my 72 from the original owner's son in law. It had been repainted, but was pretty much unmolested. It has what appears to be a fiberglass OEM style valence, and headlight buckets. Are these typically after market or could they be OEM? I am just curious.
  19. cygnusx1
    A huge percentage of Weber problems are linkage related...problem is when the linkage doesn't work precisely, tuning them is a moot point.
  20. cygnusx1
    Love the wheels, and the car. My baby was born Silver with Red, but the original and previous owner painted the interior black, and the outside wine-red. Nice to see what she would have looked like.
  21. cygnusx1
    My first car inherited. I had to make it run, and fix the rust. I mastered the SPICA injection, and then on a trip to Italy, I pulled DCOE Doubles and an intake in a Milan junkyard for $100,000 lire. About $60. I added some hot Ereminas cams and the car was incredible. The music! The only thing that you need to get used to is the driving position. The Italian cars are pretty far off from everything else....mainly the pedal to steering wheel position. Me next to it when it was new in the family. Now I have a 240 and a 280 but REALLY have the GTV bug myself. I feel your pain.
  22. cygnusx1
    I took the 240Z for its Winter fuel fill up this morning. I actually hit a few snow flakes on the way back from the gas station. That's how badly I don't want to put it away. I wait until literally, the first flakes. I also put in some Sta-Bil to keep those triples from gumming up. I keep both Z's full to eliminate tank condensation, and in case I need fuel for the generator. They are easy to siphon in a pinch.
  23. cygnusx1
    Each car is different. I like the sway bars all around but it totally depends on your springs, expectations, and condition of roads. Fortunately, they are relatively easy to add/subtract. I would try with, and if you feel too bumpy, try without. Definitely leave at least a front bar in though. You also have the option of using rubber bushings, or a harder bushing to slightly alter the ride and roll effect.
  24. cygnusx1
    What materials do you work with?
  25. cygnusx1
    I just decided, and purchased an original radio for my 72. I can't wait to hear mono AM and FM in there! I think restoring the radios, is a good investment. Prices are going up rather quickly. I am considering trying a Bluetooth to FM modulator to play music off my phone, and broadcast it to the original radio on FM. Too bad its only mono. iSimple Bluetooth FM Modulator ISFM21 - Best Buy
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