cygnusx1

I knew there was a hill in Florida somewhere. Up here in the NE there are a lot of rumors about Floridians, and over the hill? I never knew what hills they were referring to. There are a few rally's that run through the US but I suppose none of them would have a vintage class? I spectated a few rally's here in upstate NY, and the one out in PA pretty recently. I think I even remember seeing an S30 run in one of them.

Ken, are you interested in racing the car, or just building it as a tribute?

Just an FYI. I once installed new dust boots and then squirted in some unknown type of grease. One season later, the mystery grease had pretty much melted the OEM rubber. Now I use silicone Mobile 1 grease, with no issues.

I put 300+ foot pounds and 350hp through mine regularly. It's built like a tank. I would venture to say that it will do whatever an R200 can do and more. BEFORE INSTALLATION GO TO HYBRIDZ.ORG AND READ ABOUT GEAR FLIPPING AND BELVILLE WASHERS. SOME UNITS ARE ASSEMBLED WRONG FROM THE FACTORY.

I am going to link your post into the vintage Z footage thread. Thanks! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40833

Here is some rally footage contributed by Zedyone_kenobi: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=354399&postcount=1

Pictures of the progress would be great! Good luck on the project, and enjoy the Z! If the engine block matches the ID plate, then keep it original...or at least keep the parts. If the numbers don't match, then build whatever engine you like.

I soaked mine in silicone spray, 10 years ago, while my 76 car was in paint jail. Although they were in good shape then, I thought it would do no harm to them. Ten years later, and they still look like new. Also did the same to all the other rubber on the car.

Slightly off topic but I was looking at the photos of the ZG in Japan and saw this steering wheel. It claims to be original. Is that a high polished leather or something?

Carl, that's exactly what I was saying....for 8k you either get a driver that you can show at all the stop lights and gas statoins, or a pocket full of parts with value. Either way it was a decent buy. Where else can you get ALL the Z parts from a 240Z with only 10k miles on them?

40 minutes left at ebay! Look at all the attention this "salvage" got! One more data point to show that the spread between "all original clean survivor Z" versus "salvaged, or shade tree restored Z" isn't as great as we would like to believe. I think it's because MOST Z's are still being traded/sold to be driven, regardless of their prowess.

Do you do logos for burger joints? Maybe that's the correlation? Anyhow, I like Chili's burgers.

I have seen 5-10 psi rises in rail pressure, after 5-10 minutes of being parked hot, on a warm day.

I have said it before and I'll say it again. Cold air is mother nature's supercharger. The unfortunate cars in the warmer climates don't get to experience it often. When it gets down in the 0 degree range the cars feel like angry bulls. Even the exhaust note changes to a more mellow, even growl. Add a turbo and intercooler in those conditions, with frozen tires, and you have a handful of loose rear end in 4th gear! That said, I had some separation issues this afternoon. I grabbed an ice pick and shovel. I Carefully shuffled out to my outbuilding, on the thin crust of ice on top of 20" of snow. I fell through a few times. I spent 30 minutes hacking away ice and snow, just so I could pry the door open enough to see my 240Z for the first time in 6 weeks.

Hmm that's funny, Nissan engineers found vapor lock to be enough of an issue that they added vents to the hood, and later a cooling fan on a timer to cool the injectors after driving a ZX. The problem does exist and is very real. That said, it is highly dependent on fuel system condition and ambient temperatures. The fuel system should remain pressurized for enough time to pass peak engine bay temperature after parking. How long that is, is spelled out in the FSM. Common issues are micro leaks in the injector hoses, and sticky check valve at the fuel pump exit. I have tried wrapping my original 76 rails and there is a difference, but not worth the effort. Hood vents are a much more effective solution.

The prices are controlled by supply and demand. Not by what we ask for our cars.

Thats a really good find. However, I switched over to Megasquirt II about 5 years ago and all that ECCS stuff is way behind me now. Good to know for the future though.

Many, many, many times, especially on the ZXT's I find the ECU connector makes poor contact with the pins and simply wiggling or reconnecting solve the issues temporarily. Dielectric grease smeared in the connector pins helps prolong the fix. Ditto for the AFM connector.

Marmitta is the Italian word for muffler. Marmitte is the plural form.

I drove an 1100hp 76 Corvette, and a 750hp SRT-8 Jeep. Both were impressive to say the least. I liked the Jeep better. I filmed the speedometer for a few seconds and captured 30mph -80mph in about 3 seconds in the Jeep.

The old Canon 20DA I believe, is an IR/hydrogen-alpha wavelength capable camera. It's a derivative of the 20D which I shoot with. The 20DA is intended for astro-photography and can be had for pretty cheap these days. http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/EQ_TESTS/INFRARED.HTM

Roger is always helpful when you get him on the phone and his prices and parts are very honest.

Just google the power to weight ratios of the cars of interest, and you get a pretty decent idea of their "quickness". Next question is, in a straight line, or on a road course?

It's not always the o-ring. Don't forget to replace the tiny oil seal, down inside the cast housing, that the pinion shaft slides into. Take out the speedo drive unit, punch out the tiny split pin, slide out the gear and shaft, use a drill bit that fits loosely into the housing. Insert the drill bit while twisting it hard by hand. The sharp tip will bite into the oil seal. Then yank it out. Hopefully the old seal comes up with the bit. Assembly is reverse of removal. I like to use a tiny bit of RTV on the outside of the new seal as a lube and sealant. Use the butt end of a snug fitting drill bit to press the new seal down. It's a bit confusing at MSA: Speedo Pinion O-Ring, Large, 70-83 Z/ZX All, 84-89 ZX Manual Code:20-1552 Price: $1.27 Speedometer Pinion O-Ring, Small, 70-86 Z/ZX Code:20-1550 Price: $3.38 One is an O-Ring and one is an oil seal. You need both when you try to fix the leak.

R mean REAR, and F means FRONT. I often ignore the obvious too. Don't feel too bad.