cygnusx1

Awesome contribution!...hit home for me as I owned an Alfa and now Datsuns.

The oil does not get up to temp at idle, or revving in neutral, and while it warms up slowly, it runs rich. Extra hydrocarbons make their way into the oil and don't burn off like they do when the oil gets very hot from driving. Basically it contaminates your oil, which in turn, can do damage to seals and possibly bearing shells. It's not a huge deal, but you should know the facts. Also, your exhaust might not heat up all the way to the tail pipe, which allows condensation from the exhaust to wet the insides of the system, leading to rust. It's best to let it sit with a fresh oil change. Put it on a trickle charger or a solar charger if no power is available. Search for Winter storage tips.

Bring the car back to the same spot, at the same time, with the rear plate only, and stake it out. Chances are that the same thief will want a matched set. Park the car facing the opposite way this time though.

The Z of my dreams right there and only one state away! We must meet.

To keep a Z from leaning, there are a few bolt-on methods. Stiffen the springs, thicken the swaybars, and for added measure you may add poly bushings to the sway bars. I don't think there is any bolt-on method designed to keep the car flat, that will not trade some ride comfort. Not with this old suspension system. Having said that, I highly recommend a staged upgrade path. 1)larger diameter wheels with lower tirewalls. 2)Stock swaybars with poly bushings or new rubber bushings. 3)Heavier swaybars with poly 4)An aftermarket spring and strut cartridge setup. 5)Coil over setup to really dial in height and still maintain the correct suspension travel. Make sure you don't upgrade only one end of the car. Do it as a full setup. Some people like heavier spring/strut and softer swaybars, some like the opposite. It's a matter of personal preference.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=349273&postcount=18 ^ Starting to sound more and more like this scenario had happened in the past..

You need to really stay on top of the insurance company. I have a feeling that this is going down the "total loss" path, so you need to figure out your options from there. Restoration shops are very expensive and will push you further into the "total loss" zone. It happened to me. Fortunately, I was close enough to the edge that we managed to strike a deal with the resto shop to get it fixed. See what your options are if the car were to be totaled. Can you keep it? What would they give you for the damages? What would it cost to buy the car back from the insurance company after a total, if possible? Fix it? Replace it? Rental car? You need to do what makes financial sense to you without being robbed at the same time.

Yes, Sexy. Not you. Your car.

Chris, you know that you invested $12, and all that time, and now you won't get half of that back when you try to sell it! Beware.

Very detailed. Nice. Can I offer you something for those excellent euro bumpers!

OK not a 240Z but a 280Z. Anyone watching Dateline tonight heard about the two brutal murderers, Ake and Hatch, that stole a Datsun 280Z from one of their home raid victims, and eventually used it to outrun Colorado police. Eventually, the car got stuck in the driveway to a Farmhouse, in the snow I think, where they were apprehended. There is a movie coming out about one of the families that was victimized. I am not sure if they will re-enact the 280Z scenes, as that crime was committed years later. Very sad story. http://www.myspace.com/tarynmanningboomkat/blog/528987815 http://heavensrainmovie.com/

In this case, the "cheap", in cheap radiator, defines less quality control, and probably the lack of compensation given to the guy behind the band saw (outsourced labor). Functionally, if you get a good one, they seem to be good. BTW Mr. Brain, that is SEXY!!

Interesting, it had crossed my mind to ask of the car had the limiter strap over the diff, and if it was broken. I, for a moment, suspected that the front diff mount might have failed at some point, slamming the diff back into the cross bar. Not sure that's even possible, but it crossed my mind when I first saw the picture.

I always love the DIY stuff!

Wow that 510 was insane. Nice contribution!

I think they would go by car's sale prices if anything, not asking prices. Whatever the case, they will take the lower number, I assure you. The only time I had an official overestimate the value of my car was when I was to pay taxes on it. Insurance says $8k for total and DMV says $12k for taxation calculations. Go figure!

That is a serious amount of rear toe-out! Did you drive it like that? You need a new bar, and check the verticals that attach to that part too. They may be leaning inwards at the bottom. I think they should be perfectly vertical if not bent. I don't know what months/years had the curved bar versus the straight one. Microfiche with part numbers, or the voice of experience would help here.

I notice a lack of vintage footage from the good ol' days, when Datsun was bringing Porsche to its knees. I hear a lot of stories of victories, have seen short clips, and have even seen some footage straight from Bob Sharp's own projector, but searching the internet for substantial TV footage, or first hand footage of Datsuns leading Porsches around the track, seems hard to come by. I am asking for help to put together a thread, right here, with real racing footage from the 70's and maybe even the 80's featuring some Datsun action. I know there is a ton of footage out there in analog form. If you have some, and have the means, please convert it to digital. Youtube, Vimeo, there are plenty of places to host the footage for free. Let's get this stuff memorialized. I am certain that Porsche didn't confiscate the evidence of their losses! I am not looking for documentaries. I am looking for the actual raw footage used to make documentaries. Here is a modest kick start: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tM8Yq0o5nSQ&feature=related