cygnusx1

It's not too hard to do. By the second try you should be a pro. Do you have a spare wheel? It took me 3 tries on this wheel...but I did it with experimental methods. Two of which did not work. ;-) I'm sure if I did another one it would be even nicer.

Here is an updated version of my tuning log: A (original setup) Date-4/10/10 125/F11/170 55F9 28mm choke 4.5mm aux choke 55 accel bleed Comments: Starts, Idles well when warm, runs smoothly, low on power above 3000rpms but runs great, stalls on quick application of heavy throttle below 2700rpm. Suspected: Chokes too small, running a tad lean, accel circuit to bee tuned later. B Date-4/24/10 Drilled Mains, Installed Chokes 150/F11/170 55F9 32mm Choke 4.5mm aux choke 55 accel bleed Comments: Starts, Idles well when warm, will not take any heavy throttle below 3000, drives ok with light throttles below 3000rpm, will take full throttle at 3000+, decent power up top. Suspected: Mains coming on too late, measure fuel levels in bowl, open air corrector to 200. C Date-4/25/10 Raised fuel level to about 26mm from top of bodies, soldered accel pump bleed holes. 150/F11/170 55F9 32mm 4.5mm 0 accel Bleed. Comments: Idles well, good throttle response in neutral, much less lag when rolling on throttle from 2000-3000, very strong from 3000+, a little black smoke around 4500 wot, feels nice overall but still has some lag and bumpiness around 2000-2700 with more than half throttle. reponse to snap open throttle iffy below 3000. D Date-4/25/10 Checked fuel level again > Need 2mm more in #1 and #2, 1mm more in #3. Drilled Air Correctors to 195. Confirmed position of throttles to progression ports perfect. 150/F11/195 55F9 32mm 4.5mm 0 accel Bleed. Comments: Idles well, good throttle response in neutral, much less lag when medium rolling on throttle from 2000-3000, very strong from 3000+, power seems to flatten out past 4000, no black smoke. feels nice overall but still has some lag and bumpiness around 2500 with more than half throttle. Snap throttle 2000-2500 results in almost complete stall. E Date-4/25/10 Turned idle mix screws out 1/4 turn each to fatten idle to maybe help progression. 150/F11/195 55F9 32mm 4.5mm 0 accel Bleed. Comments: No test drive yet.

Thanks, I am getting closer. Soldering and drilling to save money takes time. The rainy weather delays my test drives. By this weekend, I should have it fairly well dialed in.

Z's are too flexible for V8's, it throws off their balance, makes them heavy, raises the CG and makes it a terrible handling car.....oh and the R200 and half shafts can't handle it. Before your panties get bunched...this is a joke and all those statements are MYTHS that have been proven otherwise. Sorry if I raised too many brows! It certainly changes the feel of the car. I like them both ways! Good luck with the build.

Does anyone have a baseline recommendation for triple 40DCOE's on a stock 280Z (L28)? The 240Z is well documented. Not the 280Z. Feel free to throw some suggestions or combinations that work, or just keep an eye on my notes as I set it up by ear. I have performed all the basics: throttle plate angles, idle speed, best lean idle +1/4 turn rich, synch, float levels.... Here are my notes so far: 240Z Running with stock L28E and Triple Weber DCOE40-151 carburetors. Date-4/10/10 125/F11/170 55F9 28mm choke 4.5mm aux choke Comments: Starts, Idles well when warm, runs smoothly, low on power above 3000rpms but runs great, stalls on quick application of heavy throttle below 2700rpm. Suspected: Chokes too small, running a tad lean, accel circuit to be tuned later. Date-4/24/10 Drilled Mains, Installed Chokes 150/F11/170 55F9 32mm Choke 4.5mm aux choke Comments: Starts, Idles well when warm, will not take any heavy throttle below 3000, drives ok with light throttles below 3000rpm, will take full throttle at 3000+, decent power up top. Suspected: Mains coming on too late, measure fuel levels in bowl, open air corrector to 200.

IF, those lash pads were found free floating under the valve cover, I am going to bet you have sticky valves. Caused by gum or rust on the stems. This also may explain loss of compression in cylinder two! Suspicions also supported by the rust on the lash pads in the photo, if those are yours. I think that is a stock MSA image though. MSA sells rusty lash pads these days anyhow. Just clean them up and use them. Anyone have any magic potion to pour down onto the valve stems when he changes the seals that might free up the valves a little?

Good find. That's why you REGULARLY inspect for cleanliness and fluids. It's not always what you think. Make sure the keyway in the crank is not mushed also.

Thanks. I will have to remember to turn it off when I am working on it, or pull out the trigger ring.

Excellent photos and congrats to Greg Ira. Someday I will make the trek to watch the Z that could...I mean, can!

I am running the Pertronix in my newly built 240Z with Webers and it was a no brainer to set up. So far so good. I don't know if this means anything, but the coil is only warm to the touch after a long drive. Current limiter for the Pertronix? Is there a way to protect the Pertronix from toasting if you leave the key on by accident?

Good idea.

Thanks! The map and dome lights both work but the map is blinding, and the dome is too dim to light the panel. I know, it's an old car so some things are compromises... I'll probably get used to, which lever does what, with time. I don't want to swap in a different panel since the car is pretty original inside. I have some LED's...I'll experiment when I get a chance.

Since I just got my "resurrected" 72 on the road and drove it at night for the first time, I noticed a severe lack of illumination for the HVAC controls. My 280Z controls are lit. I feel like Helen Keller, trying to adjust the controls in the 72 at night. Are they supposed to be pitch black? If so, do you get used to it, or has anyone added some kind of auxiliary illumination to light up that panel a bit? I was thinking about adding an LED or two that would shine up from the center console to front-light the panel.

I agree. Both my Z batteries are "R" or "reverse post" models. However, if you are using the original metal frame to hold down the battery, make sure that the cut outs in the frame, designed to clear the posts, are n the proper location. You DO NOT want the hold-down frame to be too close to the + post. Hitting the frame with a wrench on the positive post is a bad thing.

It's a cap over the pintle of the injector. I was about to play Taps but you got the tap out. :stupid: OK I'm tapping out.

Nice. I have a few 76 parts laying around. Let me know if you need anything specific. I have a nice front bumper, OK rear bumper, and their rubber surround parts that are in decent condition.

Hey wait a minute my earthquake prediction paraphernalia predicts that there will be a pretty potent planetary earthquake somewhere, sometime!

I have been using the silver sharpie trick for many years. I am lucky that my silver Z is a nearly perfect match for the sharpie. I can use it to quickly cover up pebble nicks in the paint. I also used it to highlight the lettering on the valve cover, after painting the cover a contrasting satin black.

The rear quarter panels of a 280Z do not have indentations for the 240Z style bumper sides. However, the 240Z bumper will still fit the rear of the 280Z. That is the only "apparent" external difference in sheet metal. Smooth rear quarter panels. Of course the rear valence is different to accomodate the bumper shocks of the 280Z. I have owned a 76 280Z since 1989 and just finished a semi-restoration of a 1972 240Z. There are differences everywhere if you look close enough. From 20 feet, it's just bumpers and lights.

Since when can we predict earthquakes? Did I miss something while I was immersed in my 240Z resto-mod project? I should get a radio or TV in the garage huh? I once met a guy that was visiting NY from San Diego, and he swore up and down that hover boards were the latest and greatest invention. Yes, like the ones in Back to the Future 2. He swore they were real!

I am flattered! The paint is simply a matched color can of paint from the web. It's not that I have a lot of drive, it's that I have been laid off since May of last year, and I am making the most of it. ;-) http://www.automotivetouchup.com/ Fortunately, the previous owner knew the paint code! It was an easy pick off the shelf for a Ford Medium Merlot. Automotivetouchup.com gives you a nice can with an excellent nozzle. It's great for engine bay and touch up work. Not a substitute for a "real" paint job, but for 1000% less money, you get a 75%+ quality job. Just make sure you follow standard preparation routines for painting to get good results.

Ready for battle!

I buy bulk film from xpel.com I don't like the pre-cut kits because if you goof, you lose the kit. With bulk film, it's cheaper, you can section the covering into smaller pieces so they are easier to apply, and you can try again if you goof a section.

A few updates for Classiczcars. I am close, but taking a break for Easter weekend. I should be turning the key around Wed or Thur of next week.

Belt or no belts...the best music was from the Z...a close second goes to the 928.