cygnusx1

You can't put a price on sentimental value, but if my son had my old Z, and he was in your position, I would slap his wrist, tell him to put that wallet back in his pocket, and spend it more wisely.

I think she was saying that the headlights are out....

Beatiful interior. Love that wheel in there! A matching wooden shift knob would be the icing on the cake.

Silicone may not be good for the O2 sensor (S130 cars and up). Thoughts? I am not a chemist, I just recall the "sensor safe" RTV, non silicone stuff...or is it something different.

10 bucks says that if you put some vaseline, or light grease on the hatch side-guides, with some light oil where the plastic slides up and down, then rub the rubber blocks on the edge of the hatch with the same light grease, you will eliminate the noises. Also rub an oily rag on the hatch piston, and lube the hinges at the ends of the piston mounts. Works wonders.

You guys do realize it didn't specifically say "females in bikini's"...never assume. I just don't want any unwanted surprises...

Thanks for reviving this. I forgot about it. As a follow up, I have had zero issues with the fuel sender since gluing the windings into place with CA. It has been perfect.

The looks, the sounds, and the fact that he can sit up front in his booster seat. He is 5. He also likes that he can crank the window up and down with his foot, while strapped in. He also loves that he can reach the sun visor and use the vanity mirror I have, to see behind us. I don't think I've ever shown him the secret compartments. He will love those.

Makes perfect sense to me. See if you can get a price for the tail light chrome too. $50 for the heater panel chrome restoration sounds like a WIN! Vacuum plating places seem hard to come by. Watching this thread for sure. EDIT: Haha great minds think alike! I posted this at the same time as you ^

Good luck. Restoring that part will certainly separate the men from the boys. I hope to get some inspiration to do mine after I see yours done. ;-)

Yes, if there are bends in the rubber part, it wont sit flat against the chrome. I had to take out bends in the rubber part before I started. Note that there is a metal stiffener molded into the lower part of the squeegee, for those that are reading this. I think two or three more clips would be nice to keep it from leaving gaps. Try to move the clips around a bit. I agree, it's not ideal and I almost was going to put them back in the box and send them back, but when all was said and done, they function well, and look decent installed.

Back when I was young and stupider, I rode in the hatch of a Z, superman style. I think we got up to about 115mph. I would NEVER do that with what I know now. Age makes you wiser. Cool jump seat. My dad made a wooden one for his Alfa Duetto when I was born. Rode in it for three years...the good old days.

I like them on. On my 240, however, only the hood emblem is omitted. The holes are not there in the hood, so I left it off. I kind of like the clean hood look.

Opera browser. Right click on the webpage, select "block content", and click the ads you want blocked. Done.

Yes they attempt to keep water out, and keep the window stable in any position. Mine do, reach the window and provide weather protection. There are no gaps at the glass. It's a bit confusing when you put these onto the chrome strip. There is a small lip on the outboard edge that should rest on top of the chrome trim, not under it's edge. If you put it too low, it may very well not reach the window, and the clips will not be holding very well either. Note the small rubber edge that rests on TOP of the edge of the chrome. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=53038&d=1335674008

The carburetors that keep on giving. I love them too. I don't use an AFR gauge, although I should. Here is what I discovered, the L loves to idle rich, and the popping in the exhaust during deceleration, if you have it, goes away completely, if you throw in a half turn more idle mixture, after you have found ideal idle. Counterintuitive... Yes, fuel level is CRITICAL to the timing of the main circuits.

Yup there is a link hidden in my first line. http://www.datsunlandsocal.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=DS&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=240ZWeatherSeals&Product_Code=D001

Thanks, feel free to "use the force" and move the post if you want to. Might want to link to it, in this thread.

I received and installed the squeegees today. I would give them a 75 out of a 100 score. Considering they are about 1/3 the price of new molding strips, that's not bad. Also, one of them had a small gouge in the rubber that would be visible. I am not one to return things due to my lack of patience, so I used them anyway. 1) Remove the moldings from the car by prying on the rear portion with a plastic putty knife. Pull it up and work forwards by hand. (careful not to drop the window roller into the door. A magnet will retrieve it :stupid: ) 2) Use an awl to bend open the staples, and raise them up. 3) Snip the staples with a cutter. 4) Line up the new rubber strips at the back of the chrome molding, note where the original strips began. 4b) TIP: To match the slight curve of the original chrome molding, snip the new rubber strip as shown, in one or two places. (photo 5 below) 5) Press on the retainer clips, longer side of the retainer should go inside the molding channel. 6) Trim the angle into the forward edge of the new rubber to match the originals. 7) Reinstall onto door. 14) Why don't these instructions come with the strips????? Comments: The window stays up tighter now and does not drop down while driving at all. When the window is partially rolled down, it does not rattle over bumps. With the windows shut, the door closes with a more solid sound from the window being more tightly held in place. Looks fine to me. It took about 1:15 to do both sides. A few more retainer clips would be nice and make sure you don't place them over the OEM molding clips inside the chrome trim. Keep all forces in check. Don't strong-arm anything or you could dent your moldings. Hammer on the new clips with a hammer's wood handle, while holding the assembly in your other hand. Gentle!

If you don't need exact, go down to autoparts and look at the selection of Dupli-Color stuff. Home depot also has some interesting paints. I ended up using flat black and I really prefer the look.

The key at 12:00, OR the line on the ZERO at the crank pulley should both be really close to TDC. Close enough. They don't move relative to each other...unless the crank pulley rubber damper ring has failed.

At this point you can't assume that valves are bent, but I would assume that the head needs a rebuild, or a refresh at least. I would pick up a used head that is already setup and drop it into place. When the head is off, make sure your pistons, walls, and rings are proper.

Bonzi, Just WOW!

I went to the HF museum about that same time. I don't remember that Z car though. It's a really cool museum. I would like to know more about that model too. A little googling and I found another partial shot of the model. Photographer described it as a scale model of the original 240Z. http://www.flickr.com/photos/26329029@N06/6793286805/

Definitely valvetrain sounds as far as I can tell. Could be a missing lash pad? or maladjusted clearance. Turn it over by hand and observe that all the valves are opening and closing by watching them with the cover removed. Compression test results?