moyest

Don't tell me you can buy those little plastic chrome thingies? I just forked out mega-bucks to buy the entire pull handle from some dude on Ebay, in Canada! So that's the cost of the item, plus shipping from Canada to Australia! I'd be interested (but p*ssed off!!!) to know if you can just buy the plastic covers for a few bucks?? :stupid:

You're having us on, right? FERRARI vs 240Z?? Come on dude! You're talking about a 300+kph supercar going against a 30 yr old Jappa! I love the Z, but you gotta admit it can't match any kind of modern Ferrari on cornering or acceleration. :stupid:

I need the passenger grab-handle. Not the "armrest", but the grab-handle with the chrome/plastic trim at each end. In fact, I don't really need the HANDLE, I just need the little chrome/plastic ends. Do you have those? (kinda sad that the Z gets "canabilised", but hey I'll take 'em if you've got 'em!)

Sorry for the poor description, but I've broken one of the nice little chrome/plastic caps on my passenger door's handle - the ones which cover the screws fastening the handle to the interior door panel. Any ideas where I can pick one (or two) of those up?? I have heard the items are no longer available separately from Nissan? :disappoin

Yup, Simon sure had a chromey engine! My bumpers were done by the previous owner near Wollongong, just before I bought it. In other words, "nowhere near QLD"! The bumpers were stripped, over-riders removed, holes patched up... then chromed quite nicely.:classic: I'm a big fan of chrome on the Z's, and don't much like the ones where people black out the window frames etc. unless the car is white or silver perhaps?

Yes, I think I've seen that one - fairly large tyres and very dark tinted windows? Not bad at all. I've often seen it around the Broadbeach area. Is he a club member? How many others will be driving non-Z's tomorrow? If I go, I wanna be in a long line of Z's :classic:

I had planned to take a drive into the hinterland this weekend, on a great road I started to investigate last weekend. I drove in for about an hour, but had't filled my tank when I got the opportunity, then started to run out of gas (and no gas stations in sight!). :stupid: I took the Beaudesert Road, I think? the "highway" at the start curves past the Mount Tamborine turnoff on your right, the Hinze Dam to your left, and the Springbrook turnoff to your left. Past all of those, and the road starts to get interesting (and very picturesque) through the valley. I passed a few towns named after Creeks (yup, they were small) and I think I was heading to Mount Warning? before my fuel tank wouldn't let me go any further. Might be a nice run for the future? Easy approach from Nerang, but just not sure what you get to further up the road??

Sounds interesting! But why so early in the morning? I don't think I even know what 7.00am looks like! Maybe if you're filing past the Gold Coast, I'll join you from there (and sleep in an extra hour?) I'll phone Mike and check out the details. THANKS FOR THE POST!

I think you'll find that MSA sells different shaped headers for different transmission types. Perhaps you bought headers for a manual transmission, but have an automatic? (or vice versa) Always worth checking.

Oh, and I forgot to mention - I also heard that if I swap my standard 240 distributor (the "points" variety) for an electronic distributor from a 280z or 280zx, then my rev counter won't work any more!? Apparently the old vs new distributor technology means that the rev counters for each will not work with the other :stupid: BUT, all is not lost. I also heard that a few smarties can re-gig the old rev-counters to adapt them to new-fangled electronic distributors?? Can anyone shed any light on any of this??

Hello 240Z owners, I have a couple of queries about distributors and coils, in an attempt to gain more horsepower out of my L24 - 1. If I swap my standard 240 distributor and "sports" coil for a 280z (or zx) electronic distributor and coil, will that help driveability and/or horsepower? 2. If I reconnect the vacuum hose back to my distributor (or my NEW? 280 distributor), will I get more horsepower from the corresponding "advance" in the distributor? If you don't know what I'm talking about, don't worry - I barely do either! But I heard that disconnecting the vacuum hose which runs from the intake manifold to the distributor (which I did when I added triple carbs and new manifold) means that my distributor will not operate to its maximum. Apparently I'd be missing out on a few degrees of "advance", and so I'm missing out on horsepower?! Damn, that was never intended!!! What I need is for one of you engine techy people to write a BIG reply with everything you ever needed to know about distributors (including upgrades, if it's worth it). I'll just sit here and wait... :cross-eye

Hi everyone I'm looking for a bit of guidance on headers/extractors for my L24 block with triple carbs. Problem: once I fitted my triple 45 webers, the existing (after-market) headers did not suit. The no.1 and no.6 pipes from the headers almost TOUCH the underneath of the inlet manifold (which runs from the carbs to the engine). Result: the fuel running through the inlet manifold is vapourising/bubbling away, so the car starts to *splutter* once the temperatures get up. Question: To any of you out there who are successfully running triple carb set-ups, WHAT BRAND OF HEADERS ARE YOU USING? Also, are you using any kind of heat resistant material (e.g. heat tape or high performance coatings) or heat deflectors? I'm NOT interested in installing a secondary fan (which seems to be a solution some have gone for), because I don't want to clutter the engine bay with extras. I really feel there must be a set of headers which suit triple carb set-ups, on top of which any heat coating would help my situation even further. Brands? Cost? Advice? ANYONE? Cheers MM

Webers all the way! I'm running triple 45's on my L24 (ported and polished head, mild cam). Gained about 30% more horsepower over the standard engine, and you can really feel it! It revs out very nicely. BUT, I am plagued by the excessive under-bonnet temperature vapourising the fuel! This is only because the inlet manifold (from the carbies) sits too close to the headers, which heat up the inlet manifold. If only it was a cross-flow head! QUESTION: What kind of headers are you "triples" boys using? Do you have the same problem? My headers are non-standard, but I'm not sure what they are exactly. All I know is that the no.1 and no.6 pipes almost touch the underneath of the inlet manifold! (P.S: It's a "TWM" manifold) Thanks for any help you can offer! Cheers

Zhead, That is a cryptic comment! Can you please explain what difference the oil in the dashpots will make, and what oil is better suited to prevent the problem?

I have this problem with my triple carbs! They heat up, then things go wrong! A very simple test is, when things are hot and the idle suffers, poor some tap water all over your intake manifold - as the water cools things down, you might notice your idle returns to normal. If it DOES return to normal, you know that HEAT is the problem. In my case, it is caused by the intake manifold sitting very close to the exhaust headers (in one case touching!). With no heat shield in place, the heat simply transfers from my exhaust to my intake manifold and heats things up. Even if you've got a heat shield, if my suggested test reveals that heat is the problem, you should try a heat-resistant coating on your exhaust headers (e.g. "Jet Hot" coating, or heat-wrap material). The 280zx "blower" that was suggested is simply a fan that will mount to your engine quite nicely, and blow away the hot air. Not sure whether it would be sufficient in my case, but perhaps in yours? Good luck!

More questions folks - In an effort to cool underbonnet temperatures, has anyone ever heat-coated their INTAKE MANIFOLD as well as their exhaust headers?? Is it possible to heatcoat the intake manifold, or is there some reason I should avoid it like the plague?? Seemed like a good idea to me to further cool my fuel flow and carbies. Cheers :classic:

Hi all, I'm still wondering how to stop my carbs (and fuel) from heating too much. My exhaust headers run too close to my carb set-up, so I need to find some headers that bend down more sharply (and don't run out underneath my carbs). More background: mine are TRIPLE carbs on a TWM manifold, and my non-standard exhaust manifold is a 6:3:1 set-up (from memory??). I've heard about "Pacemaker" headers, "Clifford Research" headers, "MSA"... but I'm just not sure whether these are all roughly the same shape or radically different? Any advice for a punter like me?? :stupid:

Dear fightyourself, A man after my own heart! I've just installed triples myself, and I'm very happy with the result... when it's running! Unfortunately, it's too hot in summer where I am (Brisbane, Australia - and 40 degrees forecast for tomorrow!) to use the darn thing! My intake manifold sits too close to my exhaust headers, so the fuel gets heated and upsets the running of the car! But I digress... :cheeky: When the triples were stuck on, the mechanics chopped my accelerator linkage and shortened it. It worked, but the carbs don't seem to quite return to their idle position (at least not fast enough). I wish my mechanic had warned me (he has a habit of not informing me about the silly things he does!), because I would have told him "CHANGE IT TO A CABLE LINKAGE!!!" :stupid: This is a popular conversion, whereby your rip out the push-rod linkage and replace it with a simple cable. The benefit is that you get smoother/better throttle response, and you don't have to butcher your "original" linkage set-up. But... because I didn't do mine that way, I'm not sure where you can go to get such a linkage set-up. Perhaps MSA? You could even fabricate your own I guess? Good luck! P.S: I'm due to post photos of my new triples soon.

Halz, If you struggle to get the original 240Z vinyl pattern and colour you want, why not consider leather? It'll add a bit of class to your cabin, and it smells good too 5.bmp

Guys, it probably wasn't so much the "petrol"/fuel injection in the TR6's that made a difference - it depends on where the HP was measured! The 240Z has around 95-105HP at the rear wheels, which is probably what the TR6 had. Once the injected TR6 came out, 150HP "gross" for both the TR6 and 240Z suggested a pretty even comparison in terms of raw horsepower. But once you dump the respective engines into the respective cars, THAT'S where the difference in performance happens! Suspension setup, responsiveness, exhausts, etc... Plus convertibles are usually heavier because the manufacturer has to add structural rigidity somewhere else (which equals more metal, more weight!). So a better "handling" comparison on the track or twisty roads might be between a TR6 with full roll cage -vs- a 240Z with strut braces front & rear - now THAT would be interesting! Hawaiiankine - I've worked up my L24 with porting/polishing the head, mild (not SO "mild" really) cam, a good manifold ("TWM" brand) "port-matched" to triple DCOE45 webers. I also have headers, leading into a 2.5" stainless exhaust system. If you consider the original HP was 151HP "gross" at the flywheel (i.e. around 100HP at the rear wheels), then my recent Dyno result of 133HP at the rear wheels might be as much as 200HP "gross"!? :knockedou I don't care much for "gross" horsepower figures, but I'm happy with a 33HP gain at the rear wheels - it's noticeable! The revs climb like crazy, and I feeeeeel fast! :classic:

Chino, that's one serious heat shield! Regarding the cold air ducting, I was told to simply remove the passenger side floor vent pipe which sits in the corner next to the radiator. It disables the passenger-side floor vent (or if you open it, it poors in HOT air), but the extra air flow helps to keep the engine bay cooler. However, the "cold air" options only help when the car is moving. I think the coating and/or heat shield options are a better solution. I might try coating the headers first, but can you coat slightly rusty headers or do I have to start fresh with nice condition ones? I'll also check out Stewart Wilkins Motorsport - thanks TRS! Cheers