moyest

TRS, I agree - if there's a guy in Aussie selling a Z set-up, take it! My quoted cost of AU$1,300 was just for the fitting and tuning!!! Because of all of the fiddling around (see my thread in the "Carburettors" section). It was nuts, but I'm happy anyway. I purchased my carbs from USA. Basically, some dude had bought them for his 240Z, then decided to buy his girlfriend an engagement ring instead. So he was flogging BRAND NEW never-been-installed Webers and TWM manifold (and linkage kit) at secondhand prices. What luck! I paid $1,300 for the entire package (including US$180 shipping). Now THAT'S saving some money! Usually they're about AU$650 to $700 per carb, so that's $2,000+ right there! Money spent from "go" to "woah" = AU$2,600. Now, for that sort of money you could probably have an entire L28 block rebuilt to whatever high-performance standards you want! (OK, maybe not, but close!) Cheers Z Car Nut

I wish I had a photo, but it's too soon - I only got my car back from the mechanic last night... Brand new TRIPLE WEBERS on a TWM manifold, fitted and tuned~ Here's some info. for the punters out there considering a triple carb set-up (especially Webers), because I never found a "comprehensive" thread on the website that gives enough info about the topic. So here goes: RESEARCH: The cost of Weber carbs varies greatly between different suppliers, wholesale and retail. I don't want to give any wholesalers or retailers a free "plug" here, especially because I didn't purchase through any. But I did do the research before I bought mine privately, and the price varies about US$200-$350 just for the carbs and manifold (and that's comparing the same brand manifold, because you can't compare a TWM manifold to a Cannon manifold, for example). DCOE45's: I've seen a few threads about which size carb to use in the triple set-up. The conclusion in most of those threads seems to be to go for DCOE40's. That's probably correct if you are running a stock standard engine (L24 block), but I'm not. My L24 has a ported/polished head and a re-profiled cam (although still fairly "mild" and streetable), also with a sports exhaust. On my set-up the DCOE45's worked a treat! CARB SPECS: When you buy your carbs, try to get a set that have been set up correctly for your engine. When sellers tell you that you'll only need to "re-jet" them, they're lying!!! There's jets, chokes, venturies, emulsion tubes... The jets are probably the cheaper items to replace and play with, but venturies and emulsion tubes can be very expensive to have to replace! Just remember, you need SIX OF EVERYTHING on the twin-choke triple carb set-ups. LUCKILY, I bought my carbs off a friendly chap in sunny Florida who had bought the right set-up. So close in fact that I only had to get different jets to have it running properly. DYNO-TUNING: This is a must. You've got to get it right the first time, otherwise you'll have some expensive engine hardware that doesn't add to performance at all. The extra fee for time spent on the Dyno is minimal, compared to the cost of having to have them constantly re-tuned if you get it wrong. :mad: MECHANICS: Obviously they have to have a Dyno! But it also helps if they've set up a Z before. Again, by sheer LUCK I used mechanics who knew their way around Z cars. The workshop owner's son drives a modified 240Z (turbo), and the owner drives an even MORE modified 240Z (RB26 engine from Skyline GTR). BUT, they were expensive. I must admit I felt "ripped off" when I got the bill for $1,300 (that's Australian dollars, but still!!!). RACKING UP COSTS: Where I hit a "money pit" was because the TWM manifold would not bolt on above my extractors. So the extractors had to be heated and re-shaped to allow more room. Then heat insulation was wrapped around the extractors to stop the petrol boiling in the carbs (the insulation cost about $135). Finally, there were all the "pretty bits" and improvements on the stock linkage kits. For example, nylon locking nuts instead of nuts + washers. Still, I think $1,300 in ANYONE'S currency is a bit steep, considering my carbs did not need venturies, chokes, etc replaced. SOUND: Wild! I'm sure I can hear every piston firing in the exhaust note. The engine is so much more willing to rev out, and the "urgency" of the exhaust note is more reminiscent of a Ferrari than a Nissan block. My engine's peak performance is now at about 5,000rpm - peak HP and peak torque! LOOKS: triples look great, no question. With "sock" air filters (stuck on over each of the six air horns) it looks like a thoroughbred racing machine. I'm sure with a cold air box the exhaust note would be a bit milder, although the look is certainly not as "raw". Of course there are also the looks of passers by, who turn and stare when they hear me coming! :sick: FUMES: Yup, if you had any fumes before you'll CERTAINLY have more now! I have to divert my exhaust tip away from... well... everything!!! I need a 10-foot extension (with separate wheels), so that my exhaust fumes only bother cars in neighbouring suburbs!!! Right now my car certainly does not pass the "girlfriend" test - i.e. my girlfriend gasps and chokes and begs me to pull over! OTHER STUFF: You won't need your choke anymore, as it's like having six carbies on your engine - instant feed whenever you need it. But you might need shares in an oil company?! I might drop another thread on that later, once I know how the gas mileage has been effected (it's too early to tell). But with all those extra fumes, I can only guess that (a) it's running richer, or ( I'm using WAY more gas! CONCLUSION: I'm done gagging at the cost of this exercise, and now I have nothing else but enjoyment. I always wanted six air horns sucking air into my engine, so I'm extremely happy with the result. Suddenly I'm driving a 150mph car! Now that's a sports car baby, yeah!!!

Well, I finally had triple Weber carbs fitted to my L24. Previously I was running standard bottom end with ported/polished head and a re-profiled cam (fairly mild). I noticed a bit of improvement in performance, especially on the highway in 3rd/4th/5th gears. Had my triple Webers fitted and tuned yesterday, on TWM manifold (thanks Tony for the complete set-up all the way from Florida to Australia). The expense was horific! The mechanic had to reshape my extractors before he could get the manifold on. He also wrapped them in heat-insulating material to stop the petrol boiling. There was more "fiddling" to get the accelerator linkage hooked up, and a few dollars spent on nylon nuts and pretty bits. End result: $1,300 spent! (that's Australian dollars... but still, thirteen hundred bucks is thirteen hundred bucks!!). Performance: Incredible 30hp gain (at rear wheels)! Incredible because the standard horsepower (at the rear wheels) is around 100hp or just under. So a gain like that must be nearly 30%! Sound: Unbelievable - with my sports exhaust set-up it used to sound like a V8 on "Ritilin", but now it sounds like a 1950's/1960's Ferrari on speed! Smell: definitely more fumes! :sick: :sick: Message to all the weber-cynics out there: TRIPLE WEBERS ROCK!

Yep, the guy that did the suspension knows his stuff. He is a Z car specialist mechanic, and he sets up Z's for racing and rallying. He owns an absolutely mint 240Z. He does suspension work for lots of people. I really have to get this problem sorted, because tomorrow I'm having triple Weber 45's fitted and I don't want to have to drive everywhere under 50mph if you get my drift...

Oh, and I haven't hit any curbs or had any dramas at all. The noise just "developed" of its own free will. Don't think I've even hit a pothole lately! :classic:

Thanks guys, but I rotated the wheels (rims) front to back, so even after I changed the wheels around the noise is still there. And assuming the "strut catridge" is the thing that the suspension strut sits inside, that is OK too. I had the suspension done a month ago (and the noise started before that), but the suspension guy said all the bits looked really good. What about C-clips, U-joints, and other letter-related items?

Hi folks I've posted questions on this a while back, see if you can spot the problem - When I hit 50mph I get a rumbling sound in the cabin, and vibration from the rear. Once I hit about 65mph+ it disappears. Suggestions so far are things like tailshaft, CV's/U-joints, outer bearings, etc... UPDATE: I had my car on a "rolling road" DYNO last week, and when I hit 50-60mph the guy said my rear left wheel was tramping up and down a bit (kind of wobbling). Makes sense. I guess if my rear left wheel is bumping along the road then it would feel a bit like an out-of-balance driveshaft or similar. Kind of feels like I have one square tyre! It's not tyres though, because the first thing I did was balance and rotate the wheels. SO WHAT WOULD CAUSE THAT? :stupid:

Well, in response to all of the above: The vibration doesn't come through the steering wheel as much as it comes through from behind the seats (and through them?). I also can hear the vibrations behind me (no smart remarks please!!). Tyres are fine. That suggests it must be U-joints or an unbalanced drive shaft?? Not sure. Any other suggestions? I would have thought it was quite "common" - I've driven other Z's that develop clunks or vibrations, and thought it might be a common weakness?

Help! My car has developed a vibration at about 45+mph. I notice it more when I accelerate, but I guess even when I take my foot off the gass it's still there a bit. Opinions so far include the drive shaft being out of balance, or the diff and gearbox not lining up true. I dunno!? I've heard horror stories of Z suspension or drive shafts collapsing at speed because people ignore these problems. I don't want that to happen! I also get a metalic "click"/"clunk" changing into 3rd, 4th or 5th gear (but not 2nd). So, I wonder whether the spline between drive shaft and diff is worn out? Any advice re: drive shafts/vibrations/diffs??? P.S: the vibration is NOT from wheel balancing - I checked the most obvious thing first.:stupid:

Fellas! Someone told me the "clunk" is normal. I didn't believe them. My "clunk" is even more mysterious! It developed after about 3 months of ownership (but of course it was already 30 years old). The clunk got steadily worse over about 2 months, then became a "bump" behind the seat. I had the diff mount renewed (and a few bushes) and it was all OK. The mechanic told me to REALLY tighten up the moustache bar bolts and those big ones that run right through the suspension arms. i.e: get the car on a hoist, and put your full weight into tightening them up. It worked for a while, but came back again. I took it to a local Z shop and they were miffed by it. They predicted there might be play in the diff!? The mystery remains unsolved. P.S: I get the "clunk" when I change into third or fourth or fifth (but not usually second).

Hello! I'm trying to get a bit more performance out of my 240Z. It's a 1972 model, and I want to go the "old school" route (not turbo, not EFI). You can check out pics of my Z at my website, just to get the picture (pardon the pun): www.angelfire.com/pro/240Z I was thinking triple weber DCOE40's (which are legal in my country, no problem!). I even found what looks like a good supplier for a full kit with linkages, anti-vibration mounts, and even a cold air box! But the PRICE! Woah mamma!! Check out the site: http://www.racetep.com/ztripdcoe.html Anybody have suggestions on reliable triple carbs for a decent price? Cheers!

Dear 280zx fever, Before you get into the webber 45's, you may want to check out this link: http://www.racetep.com/webcatframe.html Go to the link titled "Before chosing your REDLINE Kit". Read the info on the way the webbers are usually set up (i.e. "de-tuned"). I'm not expert, but I've been told that 40's would be fine even if your engine is pulling high revs. Like you said, it's all about jetting! Check out the rest of that site too, it's very informative! And check out MY website while you're at it!!! www.angelfire.com/pro/240z Cheers!

Greetings! I've put together a few photos of my 1972 240Z for you all to view and comment on: www.angelfire.com/pro/240z Check it out and tell me what you think. Also, I'm thinking about doing more mods on the engine, perhaps triple webber set-up? If you've done that yourself and have any advice (especially on how to save money!) let me know.