seerex

thanks for the compliments, hope to have pics of them on the 71 soon, the guy I bought them from has tons of z parts rare and usual he says so I am waiting for a list of what he is getting rid of , might be interesting

you know Will I had almost forgot about that pic , think I might have nightmares now

Well after a long wait and search I found what I wanted, I think I will wrap them with 225/50/15's not sure which exactly yet. Thinking the Falken Ziex or the Nitto NT450 . They are Hayashi Racing mesh 15x7 with a +2 offset , love the lip. Its just nice to have one aspect of the car done.

first start off at the battery and work forward, I had a battery slide one time into the fenderwell and had the same effect, check for loose grounds , honestly sounds like something came loose or something grounded out , not the actually battery or alternator

I have had that air dam as well as the poly one, they use the existing mounting holes from the original front piece to mount to , should be 2 on each side, I can get some pics but you will probably know what I mean , Jeff

Robert is the yellow car yours? If so was that a dealer installed top? I have one on my 71 and it goes up only half the roof. Thanks Jeff

Congrats first of all, I am sure you can find lots of threads reguarding finding cars that have been stored for an extended period of time but my suggestions would be 1- drain all fluids <oil, anti-freeze, gas from tank, and tranny > 2- if the gas from the tank has a brownish color or funky smell :sick: assume its turned into varnish and I would recommended dropping the tank and having it cleaned 3- remove all rubber line fuel, coolant, and most anything and assume it will need to be replaced 4-probably expect a rebuild on the carbs if nothing else a very good cleaning you should pick a su carb video from z therapy 5- read some threads in the forums reguarding relubricating an old motor, i know alot of guys recommend putting some oil in the cylinders and manually turning over the motor 6- expect everything you touch to need to be replaced or to break , so don't be surprised when it does :tapemouth 7- Start saving your money and enjoy the Z and the website

yes it is very cold , anywhere at Daytona during the 24 hours , I prefer paddock passes when I get to go, Sebring just had a huge overhaul last year, I haven't seen it in person but heard its very nice , but they removed almost all of the runway now , yea the stockcar drivers seem to be moving in but also I knowticed alot of other drivers from other series appearing as well, very impressed witht he pace and the fact that soo many cars are running so fast this late in the race, also just saw my boys are still in it

if you have a manual or if you read through the threads you can do a direct start from the battery to see if the starter solinoid is bad, check your battery and connections as well, I had the same issue and it was the starter , good luck

well the 24 hours of Daytona are a tad cheaper to go to but my fave is still Sebring, best 12 hours of racing IMO, been to many kinds of racing :boat, motorcycle, sports car, classic, indy lite , cart, nascar and trans am , still love Sebring the best , I want to visit some the west coast tracks, would be kinda nice to see all the hills and diffrence of setups , by the way I and cheering on the Zotz Race team , think they are running a modified porsche 911 not sure which class, they work on my Z's

neither could I carl but I just emailed them and hopefully I can get a price soon

thank you , i will check with them as well.

Hello all, I found a guy from ebay that has a machine shop that is willing to make short shifters with a 10 mm thread pattern for the new style shift knobs< which are 10 or 12mm as opposed to the 8 mm original size>. I got a rough quote from him of $50 a piece with an exhange and he said he would be appreciate if I could send an extra core shifter. I just wanted to guage the interest in this type of shifter and if someone if interested I can give them the contact information. That way i can say I have a club that might be interested in x amount of them. I still think 50ish is pretty good and he would shorten it to your exact desired height. Just thought I would pass the info. Jeff

Hello all, looking for some information on how to contact sunbelt motors. I am trying to decide who to go with for a motor build. Right now I have talked with TEP and Rebello. I have read good things people have said about Sunbelt but can't find any contact info on the web. Thanks Jeff

Also the cars got heavier as they went farther down the production process the 70-71 240's are the lightest then the 72-73 240's and so forth due to smog , safety and other things, and the best year 260z to buy is the one with the least amount of rust , the 74 was split up during production between small and large bumper styles , I believe there was other diffrences as well, but the earlier the 240 and lower the production number the more valuble some people find them to be, good luck

actually most older american cars had "matching numbers motor tranny " setups. makes rare cars worth more and insured that you have the correct motor according to build sheets

when I registered both my 240's they just did the paperwork and didn't even need to see the car, they won't car either way, now that the issurance and florida's dl computer is linked you having a valid dl and issurance is the only issue. Otherwise they don't care and besides being that old the car is exempt from impact fees and most everything else

on a daily driver its almost a requirement , on both my 240's i have removed the tint , but since they are rarely driven I like them tint free, I have a pic of my old 240z with very dark tint in my gallery

hhm a dealer

but I appreciate all the suggestions , I am just not comfortable with jb and fumes

well we just got a used one from ebay, i think its best to do it right and not have to go back in there a second time

Hey all, was helping my brother <broken74> replace his tank hoses and get his gas tank checked and we were in the middle of putting all of it back together when we found a big issue. One of the two large vent hose nipples where you attach them to the vapor tank is loose , like the welds have come apart. It doesn't pull away from the tank but the nipple area kinda rotates loosely. Would this be something we could jb weld < brothers ideal > or should we just find a 260z vent tank and wait the 3-5 days for shipping. Guess we figured where the fumes were coming from other than the heater hose used incorrectly and assorted torn hoses. The PO was a wonderful mechanic. Any help would be greatly appreciated.