seerex

maybe being resale red had something to do with it? Probably someone who just wanted that specific color and didn't car care about the wheels or cd player. I would have given Burt 20 and pocketed the 7600.

My brothers 260z got hit by a lady who had borrowed a friends car then claimed it was stolen, so don't feel too bad your situation isn't that bad, first I would get a good feel for the car's value , both by books online and other z's for sale in similar value, the higher the value you present to them the less likely they will be wanting to try and total the car. Also get ready for a bit of a fight, it uncommon for them to rollover with anytype of payouts. You can also purchase the car from the Geico if they are set on totaling it. So say if they say the car is work $2000 and they think it would cost more than 80% of that amount to fix it you would get the $2000 minus the value of the car totalled. My brother got 700 and change and the car as opposed to $1100 and the car is not in good shape at all. Another option is to see how much they are willing to pay without totalling the car <gonna have to haggle with them> and take the check and look for a door skin and fender. I also highly recommend getting 3-5 estimates of repair before you bring it to them so you also are educated on costs before they tell you. If at all possible avoid having it totalled because it shows on title. Geico like most will work with you to a degree but be prepared with information and facts, otherwise they will be glad to bend you over without a kiss. Good Luck , also if your friends deductable is high 500 or a 1000 see if he would cover the diffrence from the cost of repair that way he doesn't have a claim . Jeff

the mechanical is on the passenger side of the motor , if you have an electrical it would be just forward ofthe fuel tank roughly above and to the right of the diffrential, and it depends on if you want to use a fi motor and if so if you want to keep it <the fi >

If you had a choice of parts , try and get a n36 manifold from a 260z and use the 70-72 su carbs , and get a euro balance tube. Also depends if you want to run emissions or not. The center linkage is not the same to all the types of su carbs that were made between so if it doesn't come with get with z therapy. I would check with hybridz to see what issues if any you would have with removing the ecu in the car, assuming it has one. You might have to do some wiring for the temp sensor and depending on where you live you might have to use older style thermostat housing for warmup line for the early manifold. Good luck .

Vicky, by chance you wouldn't happen to have their number would ya? Kinda having issues with chromers in the orlando area. Thanks Jeff

Its a moral weakness if you want to drive a certain car and can afford it? If you buy a 50k car and can't afford it thats a diffrent story. But a person chooses to drive an expensive automobile its their choice not a sign of moral weakness. Hell if you think an 18k car is cheap why not buy a 3k honda and drive it ? I think that would make you feel maybe morally better? My next door neighbor got a 2 year old Champion Optioned 911 which I gather probably cost him a tad bit more than 50 k probably 55-65 . But he is the same guy who wears torn up shirts and drives a half restored mustang somedays and others drives a chevy pickup . He like most people I know who own more expensive cars enjoy the car and driving it , and yes likes the attention to a degree but if the attention was the biggest priority it would be driven more than once every two weeks or so . I think if anything envy would be what we all would be guilty of, because weither my 2 240z's are pristine or not or worth 500 bucks or 25k it wouldn't make a diffrence to the person at the light next to us or driving down the road trying to get a better view or get a chance to talk to us about it. I am glad to see the price of the Z's reach a respectable level but at the same time it removes new/old z owners from being able to buy /restore or maintain them. Sorry about the rant

Carl if he get $400 for those carbs I know I am heading for the junkyards to fund my retirement, only carbs I am looking for are triple Mikuni , but if he does sell them for $400 or more I could pay for my Mikunis that way , I just thought it was strange what people think certain parts are worth and very humorous

Back off boys these are all mine http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7942889113&category=33550 Is it my imagination or does the manifold look like its from a roadster?

I believe the term would be bs

I just talked to the " sales lady " and they say they don't sell to the public , go figure, think I might have to start searching plumbing places , if I resolve the problem I will let you know , I bet you are right some people might be interested. OK will keep you posted

hhm most interesting

Hey all, I was wondering if anyone had a solution to the problem i found with my shifter. I see that most all newer shift knobs are made for a 12mm x 1.75 or 10mm x 1.50 . I bought my brother a Nismo knob and it doesn't fit on his 260 with a type 1 5 speed. I have read that the early z up to the 300zx were 8mm x 1.25 , does anyone know of a company or a place to buy the reducer kits for the knobs? I see most knobs come with reducers for 10mm only. I found a place that will make custom threaded reducers but before I went that far I was hoping someone had a answer to the prob . Thanks

check to be sure that the choke is releasing fully , sounds like they might be sticking

when the car would run did all the electrical things run normal? Lights normal brightness and guages running correctly? Was the amp guage reading in the positive side? Sounds like either an alternator or voltage regulator . Good luck

Hello Bryan , and other new members , hope you enjoy the ride

Any of the Glen's are good choices from what I understand

I have install instruction for putting and electronic dizzy in a point type of car if you want them pm me with your email

I recommend pulling the fuse box out cleaning and checking for burn or melted areas and also look on ebay maybe for a good used stalk, the po wiring should be relatively easy to track and switch back to the stock route once the problem he avoided fixing is located and made right, check the sockets on the brake light , have someone push the brakes and see if a tester shows current and work your way back , but i also suspect either fuse or brake light switch, i resolved lots of my wiring issues but replacing the old bad fuse box , good luck , also a good wiring manual is a great ideal

go here to get them http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php

I second that opion , you can always add a header and exhaust and reuse them on the next motor or rebuilt unit , but a suspension rebuild helps alot, good luck

only the hood unit has any use to it, the two side headlight ones are brand new

haven't installed mine yet but got the hp struts with tokico springs shipped for 360 from ebay, and a good friend of mine who used to own a z shop told me that tokico made the suspension techniques springs as well, so something to consider

Hey here some pics of the bra, its has the original box and instructions, the hood part of the bra attaches two ways , one of which uses velcro so more will need to be purchased < velco that is > . Thanks Jeff