seerex

there is a company that regualrly sells them<military units> in carolina I believe they bring them up to street legal status and add other goodies to make them more friendly, I looked into for a bit then I drove one for a while and was impressed with what it could do but not for the lack of turning ability, ride, harsh interior, and general lack of use-ability in the city , if you want one still after driving one for a bit get an early year model< if you are getting a non-military unit> because they have numerous military features that were removed on later non military production years, good luck great vehicle just too much for me

wow guess am a bit out of touch with the market for the watanabe's but that seems pricey , I guess they are getting so hard to find now its driving up the price

Well i am no expert on any z for that matter a fuel injected motor, check the fuel pressure like you said you are going to, not sure if you have a ecu on the 280z but if you do I would confirm it being good, if you have a stand alone ignition the 80 model black box on the side of the distributor check that as well, your air flow meter is working ok as well? these are just thinks I know will not allow an injected motor to run if you are getting gas, probably didn't help much I think someone else will get more specifics for ya, good luck

thank you for the link , I always can use extras

I would expect more rust than he says just to be safe and I would recheck the floor and rails if there is rust there most likely there is more he doesn't know about, anytime bumpers are shaved I would be cautious of how its done only way is to use steel to be safe, and I think his exaust leak is from the huge hole between the weatherstriping of the hatch and the body panel , everyone I know that has bought a car from ebay or looked at one was generally disappointed unless it was a newer car ,have him email you more pics and close ups , never hurts and if he isn't willing to , i would pass just my 2 pennies

me and the wife are rethinking buying a new full size pickup now, wanted one for a boat and trailer hauler but at these prices the HEMI doesn't look so good , neither does the titan , either way I hate to said what we are all thinking but I doubt they are going anywhere but up

Kinda funny I have a close case of both , got one and have tinkering with it for over a year now just got it running right but still needs brakes but only paid $450 for it but I love it dearly just for making it "MINE" so to speak but it need lots of cancer treatment , and now i just got a rust free 42000 mile 2 owner 71 thats very clean and will be getting painted and completed in under 2 months we hope after getting ti this week. I love both aspects of what you are looking for but if nothing else try and get a good rust free or close to it, that seems to be the biggest cost in repairs not motors or other stuff and as well if you have someone else do the body work or paint it makes the bill easier on the wallet , good luck

hhm thank you , i know what to search through in the galleries so i can print them up to take to the body man, as well as lay out which i do and do not have in my parts bin, funny how everyone has them slightly diffrent or not at all, guess previous owners and diffrent tastes I assume, so now that i know what to look for i will be in good shape , thanks again Jeff

I just got my new 71 , and I am getting ready to take the car to get painted < choosing colors and getting seals and such > and I wanted to know where and what emblems were on the 71 , I know the datsun hood emblem and the roof pilar ones but wasn't sure which style was on the fender bottoms and what is correct for the hatch , Thanks Jeff

good to hear i will be very specific about what i seek , don't to do this twice

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7929900466&category=33645&sspagename=WDVW not sure if this helps but saw this

i saw a set datsunrestore.com for 229.95 and that was a16 piece set has anyone used their stuff or know if its actual nissan stuff because all their other stuff is , gonna email them as well but just was seeing id anyone has used them before, thanks

I am getting ready to get my new z painted and we are gonna remove all the glass , was hoping someone had purchased them from someone as a set and had some expierence with the install as in weither they fir correctly and such espciall with the chrome trim around the front and rear glass, too intense restoration ? midwest z , courtesty ? msa? bv? any help would be greatly appreciated want to make the right purchase to get the car done correctly , thanks in advance JEff

yea you should have no prob I am 6'3 and my brother is 6'4 and neither have any issues , but getting out requires a bit of art work sometimes

I was hoping to stay around the 2 thousand or less but not sure if its possible , I might be in for a shock because it been quite a while since i had a car painted , I will have to adjust the budget as necessary

Anyone have suggestions for painter they know or have used? Orlando area here but willing to drive and hour or so if worth it. thanks

Hello all , I just picked up a second addition to our home a very nice 71 240z from one of our members , the prob is the brake pedal is very hard when pressure is applied just like when the brake booster has gone bad but it doesn't raise the idle like one of my past z 's did when the booster went bad. Could it still be the booster or maybe the checkvalve? Any suggestions would be great , thank you

ditto sell the the flat tops on ebay )

quite simple look on motorsports website and they list diffrent part numbers for them , as well as victoria british , but yes Carl is correct again , ALL HAIL CARL

Sorry about that savannah with the dizzy stuff , the resistor is exactly as you described you can check that with a electric current reader to see if its working correctly , I think you may want to just recheck connections at the fuel pump , I know my brothers 74 has an electric fp and the sound varries with the car not running but ignition on. Alot of the spec and info on double checking timing and gap of the points are in many shop manuals , a very good investment, also might be a cold case of beer for Will if you can get him over to help you out as well , check the wires around the distributor there will be i think 2 and also a resistor on the side as well as in the distributor if the connections get corroded or loose it can case problems like this , good luck

I assume you ment the tach was jumping around , i doubt it is the alternator, first check the basics < timing , points and rotor if you are running standard ignition> i would then check coil and the ballast , if you feel confident also check the dizzy for excessive play , another possiblity is a loose ground or wire , but if was betting i would stay with the ignition having something bad or loose , a bit more inof on the car as in year mods stock engine and such might help as well, Jeff

between 1.98 to 2.10 depends on how much shopping you want to do

left you pm KSLS94 , hope to hear back soon I will be gone the 12-16 of oct but would like to see it if possible after that

when i tried it gave me 10 and 15 dollars shipping email him and see if he made a mistake, but like all ebay stuff its turning very much into buyer beware

oh yes its terribly true both have z's as well and our father is thinking of trading in his max for a G35 coupe , we both will be fighting to drive that one