seerex

If the timing has been set correctly and the points as well, check the carbs to make sure there is fluid in the domes and check the sync of the opening of the two carbs , doesn't sound like a carb tuning would hurt but make sure the basics are there first , but not compression , good luck

get a honda civic fan worked great in my 72, several thread show the years that work and such 15-20 bucks on ebay

I agree on the cost of the motor parts but jeez , picked up my 72 from a guys driveway for 450 it ran 2 days later < not well but ran> still getting the bugs out but how much money would you have in the roof , hatch and god knows with no pic of the inside steel of the car, much rather have a rust free or atleast more steel than rust to start, with than having to put a motor in if he get 2500 i will be very surprised even for florida where a rust free z is like finding a virgin after prom night, pretty damn rare

well gonna be interesting to see if it gets any bids

hhm gotta watch this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2469546082

just thought I would pass on a good place to get your fuel tank refinished, Complete Radiator in orlando , they charge between 130 and 165 roughly mine was 150 and they did another friend of mines z tank recently and I was very impressed, good luck

the basic diffrence in the 240 /260 and 280 motors is size in liters the 240 being 2.4 liters and so on , but the carbs are key on the motors the best being the 4 screw round tops su's and the 3 screw round top su's basicly the same , the 260 and 73 240 had a flat top hitachi which are not recommended , or you had the 280z fuel injection which has its pros as well , some people prefer the su's and some prefer the FI but as far as the basic block set it its mainly size , good luck , check for the cancer all over the car , floor pans rails and under the battery tray , also under the hatch ,

seems a bit pricy for a 280z and alot of the info that was posted on previous listings of this car made alot of the people on this site question the knowledge of the owner and what he was truly selling, I would only buy it based on what a nice 280z would go for and nothing more , but just my 2 pennies:geek:

I also recommend researchig threads reguarding adjustment of the valves , there a few breakdowns of every aspect of it , you might find reasons for your issues , hope it cures your noises

I had the same situation a long time ago , best fix or semi fix i could come up with was the weatherstripping at home depot , I know sound redneck but it fixed the prob and didn't look bad , only prob was the seal that was joining where the two ends met , I used a silicon sealer for that , good luck

you both are in our thoughts and prayers , stay positive and god bless

my brother and I will try to be there , may not have both z's there:cry: still not finished with one , but gonna bring the digital camera to get more ideals

before pulling the head , which maybe needed anyway , I would pull of the cam oiler rod the bent thing , held on by two bolts clean and straighten it , use canned air and carb cleaners you will see little holes all down it and these must be clean and flowing freely , and then get your valves adjusted, if the oiler tube is unable to be straightened replace it either with used or new but it must be fixed , 2many is probably right but the time to fix and clean the oiler tube and adjust the valves will give a chance to decide how much you want to put in it and won't cost you a bunch

if you haven't already mark and remove the hood , and other than basics take plenty of pics with the digital camera , wiring , plumbing , fuel hoses , anything that could go back in anyway other than the right way , good luck

correct with my overflow , the factory aircleaner has two inlets for the overflow from the carbs, if the floats stick you will dump gas back into the aircleaner , or where ever you direct the overflow line to , somepeople use a msa can or windshield washer tank , not sure about the knob you refer to but I am sure ztherapy can get it

first i would recoomend going to z therapys website they have several pics that show the carbs taken apart and such a big help for me and no the bottom screw that is missing if its the one I think you are refering to is the richness setting , the center linkage can be purchased at the same site , and they sell a video on how refurbish them which I highly recommend, can't say on the n33 manifold I have several pics of mine just after I put my rebuilds on in my gallery but mine are 3 screws on a n36 with a euro balance tube, hope I helped some try the site it has great info http://ztherapy.com/ good luck:geek:

if you look in the gallery there is a section just for motors, also there is a pic of my motor which has the stock fuel line set up in my gallery , if you look at the block casting numbers and the head casting numbers it will tell you which model of each that you have for referance , try starting fluid or hook up the fuel pump to an alternative fuel source such as a mower gas can to try and start it just in case the gas in the tank is bad ,good luck

I had my roof replaced because of the same situation and it wasn't that bad bit it was 10 years ago and then it was like 1500 all done and repainted

have you checked your timing and your ignition parts , rotor, cap and such?

Nothing will ever quite be the same for the US or anyone who is seen as a friend of the US, everyone can point the finger at alot of people with assumption of guilt, but we did not start this issue they <terrorists> did , doesn't make a diffrence if it is oil, the money we pay to countries , or the right to pray as we wish , someone will always not like us for some reason , I feel terrible for the people of spain and everyone else who will die in the fight because unfortunately it isn't over and not close to being such:disappoin

honestly what is one worth in good shape and what is this one worth as is ? and by chance how hard is it to get parts?

can't get link to work for some reasonhere is the address http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6755&item=2466786123&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT

know very little about them , can anyone help with some info on it , is the guy correct with what he says? thanks:geek: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6755&item=2466786123

research threads there was on on autometer replacement and i know it wasn't a perfect fit but very close