seerex

is that an issue if I will be replacing cam , rockers,springs and lash pads?

ahh didn't think about that very good point , i just checked and all the guides are the same for 70-78 , kinda a concern now with mixing up parts from diffrent years , thank you I will add that to my grocery list

by chance do you have a pic , I have found several one onlys' on the web and might be able to get you a link to the right one if I am sure which it is, is the slotted aluminum < dealer option wheel>

my bad I thought yours was a 74 , but no biggie as long as the bend is not bad , and I bet still cheaper, I hear there is a built in thermostat for the manifold itself so when it reaches like 86 f it cuts off the water to it any way

I agree it might be overkill but it would work ok , have you checked msa , I remember when ordering my thermostat housing they asked about that hose if I needed it , they show it as part #16-8016 and 5.57 as in price , just for info , good luck Jeff:geek:

crazy question here , but you know that the booster is bad right?for sure , signs of such is very hard brake pedal and a rise in the rpms when the pedal is pushed dues to the leak in the booster sometimes a air leak can be heard , just asking to be sure because like I mentioned before its not task I look forward in doing good luck Jeff

the brake booster on that car isn't difficult as in skill but it is a pain the butt, I can scan the instruction from a chiltons manual for you , but its pretty straight forward as in 4 bolts on the engine bay side and then from the driverside under part of the dash you have to remove it from the pedal and some small stuff from inside, the hard part is getting under the dash with tools to remove it , recommended using a pillow otherwise you will pay for it later , if its been on the car since day one is might be a tad stuck , good luck Jeff

not sure if you will ever get the doors to sound mercedes like but just replacing the fasteners and redoing the doors correctly helps alot, as far as the floors and tunnel areas , I am gonna use stuff called dynamat , its a sound deadening matterial that can be put on by heat gun or can be purchased with glue on one side already , BUT make sure where ever you put it there is no rust and the area is sealed up well otherwise it will retain moisture and could make for a rust problem and make sure not to cover up drain holes or areas that need to be left open to dry easily, its not cheap stuff , you can get it at car audio shops or crutchfield I think has it , you can use it on the door as well to help with sound, good luck Jeff:geek:

hhm first your 5 speed came from a 280 not a 260 <i believe the first 5spds were options on 78 280z>, just for info only , finding a 240 4 speed is rather easy , if you check ebay , on this website or zcar.com i am sure you can find one very reasonably or possible free, if you are changing it just for value or being original , then change it back to the 4 speed unit just make sure its a 72 or later 4 speed , they are better from what I have read but if you are thinking about putting a newer rear end in the car from a 260/280 I wouldn't , no reason to do it, actually unless you are looking to make it a show original car, I would leave it the way it is now , better gas milage and best combo for a stock or very close to stock setup , hope I helped Jeff good luck:geek:

might you be willing to ship? if so how much for the front fenders if they are rust free, they are going to fla 32751 zip, thanks Jeff

ok if I have read everything on this website correctly , the 280z valves go into an e31 head with no prob and give it better flow correct? I will have to replace the seats to allow for the larger valves I assume, gonna ask the machine shop to do that , any significant advantage to using stainless valves <nismo> as opposed to stock , gonin nuts with this rebuild , thanks jeff:geek:

i got the bottom of the nozels up flush with the carbs but I can not get the car to idle when warm , it start spitting and sputtering , I just need it to idle so I can adjust them like in z therapy video, its weird when on choke it runs ok very rich but ok , any help would be appreciated

I had planed on buy a "set" including lash pads and rockers , i have factory type 2 tranny 4 speed , dreaming of a borg 5 speed , and was hoping for the 180 rear end with the 3.94 I think gears , not sure if I am correct but something simliar to that . i also am putting in a electronic dizzy , not sure if that makes any diffrence , I didn't realize the 2.8 stroke would amke the higher rpms not quite as effective , but i do love the ideal of more torque

hello all , I am having my newly aquired e-31 head dipped and ported and polished with a multiangle valve job . its gonna go on a flat top piston f-54 block , stock bottom end except for turbo oil pump and being rebuilt, headers n-36 intake port and polished, and rebuild SU's , was hoping someone with a similar setup could give me a suggestion on a good cam to use I want to keep the car normally asperiated, its won't be a daily driver it will be mainly a sunday driver, any help would be appreciated with getting the right cam and any other suggestions for the engine , thanks Jeff:geek:

this is the owner of the car listed in the pics he is selling it , he might be able to get you better pics or more ideals,http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6763&item=2446799102 good luck Jeff:geek:

i thought it was too good but sometimes need to be told so , well I think I will stick with the seat in msa from a local dealer atleast I am guaranteed a correct fit:geek:

if anyone has 240z euros or red and amber sets please email me or pm Please for a 72 240 thanks Jeff:geek:

before buying a new one which will be big bucks i would look for a partial harness or one from a junk yard , kinda a long shot , but my brothers 260's rear lights went as we went along all of the sockets needed attention so it never hurts to have extra, good luck:geek:

I have emailed alot of Japanese makers of wheels and after alot of typing found most will ship to you or somebody can get them , not sure what is expensive as in wheels for ya , but I got wantanbee and ssr to give me dealers in the us where I was told by about everyone in the states I deal with that they could not be gotten, kinda pricey yes roughly 300-450 a wheel but new and nobody on your block will have them, it helps to take the time to figure out what all is printed in japanse on their site, good luck Jeff:geek:

Anyone know if nismo ever made seats? I have email the seller but the price and look isn't bad . Hoping to make sure rails are not gonna be a prob whatdaya think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33701&item=2446479432 thanks Jeff