seerex

Look inside the lead you have off it might require a long set of needle nose but i think its a pulldown motion and it will come off.

try and clean the inside connection the one in the engine compartment , wouldn't hurt to see if its really gummed up

I believe you can weld the wheels but for the cost of replacing factory z wheels I wouldn't I know it isn't cheap. But usually if you have those cracks there are visual problems or balance problems which are worse. Most of the air leakage issue with corrosion is easily fixed with a wire brush and the wheel alone on a balancer . I fhte build up is excessive just a screw driver and hammer will remove the main stuff then the wire brush. But all the build up you will encounter will be on the inside bead of the wheel , usually where the mounters have used lube to get the tire mounted or where water has entered the tire and settled there. You should be fine after a good cleaning I am sure with the future wheels as long as you don't see any visual damage. Good Luck

Yea , I have gotten too many of them . If they don't have your full name on the email I know right away that its fake. I forward them to paypal to let them know but it seems to have gotten very rampant.

hhm because its your car. Tell hmm if he wants you to drive a camero so badly have him buy you one. Do what you want to do and drive what you want to drive and its your choice to determine if its too much to restore or repair . Just sounds like a very unhappy person. Let me give you a heads up yes a Z is more expensive to restore and keep up maybe but you will find very few of them on the road and besides you won't be every other mullet head driving a camero . Its your life and your car enjoy it and forget about everyone else .

Awsome wheels

thought that was the seat belt buzzer

Hey, check your cables very closely make sure all of them are not broken within the end pieces , or also make sure you don't have a build up of corrosion. Sounds like your alternator isn't geting the charge back to the batter and to the car , the car should run < without lights and accessories on > with out a batery in the car the alternator should be able to keep it running, unless you have huge draw from somewhere , I think its Alternator <but its new , recheck > or the cables to it or from it.

Hey Jim can you take pics, of the item? Is it on the intake or the balance tube itself?

most of my emmessions have been removed and Ihave a euro balance tube but the two that I see are both threaded, one goes to the crankcase and the other to the brake booster, not sure if that helped but I would try a try a drill bit made to remove broken bolts

Congrats and welcome , yes I think a few of us can appreciate the excitment , but its sometimes better to see a new Z owner with it as well. Enjoy the ride

I have heard of the same thing reguarding the records especially with like copa and yenko type vehicles where they are ultra rare . I think unless you properly store it and drive it like atleast monthly to get it to operating temps you are gonna have issues, but there are things that just were not made to last 30 years , door rubber and some seals just slowly rot naturally . I was surprised on barret-jackson how many cars that were low mile cars did not as well I thought they should by comparison to restored ones.

But yes you truly don't know unless you are the first and only owner but I never agreed the milage was true< his car> , he showed nothing to prove it was or said he did. I am just disgusted by his attitude about his car and other people.

I have paperwork from the original owner and second owner < service guy at nissan where the car was originally purchased> and the nissan dealer documenting its service and registration for every year and mile

Its still a nice car , I don't care for his personality nor do I wish to add fuel to his fire by posting but I have to agree If I had the extra 35k I might burn it to the ground just to prove a point

I was under the impression that you had to change alot of the electrical stuff to put a manual in an auto 280z . I know there were a few idle control features but wasn't the "box " also diffrent ? If you can make the FI work right I would stick wth it just for cold starts and such , but you decide to switch them , make a plan of what all will have to be changed, IE smog , all fuel control features and splicing the wiring harness not really for new things from the motor but to propery eliminate unused switches and items like Enrique said .

I can't remember the owners name< i think Burt> but this car was bid on before all the way past either 23 or 26 k at one point and he decided he didn't want to sell. I agree about the lowest milage stuff but for everything else , I would prefer this to a factory restoration in some ways , I wouldn't be totally afraid to drive it. For the price I think 20k is a good almost a great deal. Alot depending on what you want to do with it and where you live again. Those of us who live in the salt states with putting it on the roads or by the ocean pay a dear price for older cars if they are local. But I still think it would be a 15k plus car anywhere.

I agree do you want you want , only stripe kinda stuff I like are replica race cars like Rons

I was gonna suggest just that, having then rolled, and you are running the blue spring setup correct ? I am running 225/50r15 on my 71 <hyashi 7 inch wheels>and what was on there was the 225/60r14 < on libres I think 7's as well> and I replaced my spring setup with the same as yours. I don't drive the car much so and when i do its babied to say the least , but 215 in the 60 series seems to be hard to find as most 14 inch tires are. Try a 215/65 or get them rolled . Here is a link to a calculator that might help you . http://www.net-comber.com/tirecalc.html

Hey Bill , let me know if you get the bumper ok , I was searching for my new ones I found a few but most are not cheap . Good luck

Wow I have had that size as well as 225/60r14 that didn't rub, I would consider a 205/65r14 , can you tell where they are rubbing?

Well I am sure one electric would give plenty of flow and pretty reliable. Unless you are gonna just mount 2 in the rear <electric ones> I don't think having a mechanical and electric would work . Besides most setup unless you are running triple 50 or 52 mm carbs or a throttle injection unit I am not sure if it would do anything other than cause problems .

hhm very interesting, might have to make a road trip

very very sad

yea my old ones were , I was just concerned that was getting taken