seerex

whopps didn't realize it had been posted

I thought it was very kewl . http://www.nissanusa.com/zcommercials?Site=N06ZZZE0805WAA000302&Area=03&Creative=02

I would first clean all your connections, alternator , battery and fuse box<especially the back> . Is your car idling at the correct rpms? Also see if any places will test you voltage regulator and alternator, free is always best. Usually this sort of thing is kinda normal in 240's but not in 280's . I would test and clean all you can to eliminate things.

wow love that car

well attach a catch can to the overflow hose of the radiator that way you can tell if it boiling out, while you are driving . But if you are running a 30% antifreeze / boil and 70% water you shouldn't have any boil away unless its leaving the system. I would try flushing the car with the motor running just leave the bottom radiator hose off and plug up the bottom on the radiator and fill. I would quickly replace the water with antifreeze to prevent any rust issues. Does it overheat with it idleing?

Not familar with the 240k but should be one of only a few things. When you flushed the radiator did the fuild come out brown or off color or was it flowing like mud? A visual check from that as well as checking the radiator from the cap should give you an ideal if the core is corroded. The cheapest way to start is a new thermostat. Or you can test yours by removing it and boiling it in water to the determined release temprature and see if it is working to begin with. Usually when a water pump fails either the bearings inside start making a grinding or squeal noise , they also have a tendency to leak water when failing with the extra pressure on the shaft. If the water from the flush was very dirty or slush like you could also have clogged up some or your water paths in the head or in a sharp bent in a narrow pipe. Being that the car overheats when driving I suspect its not getting water movement so I probably would bet the fan clutch is fine < in the 240k has one> .

MSA had some you added either by weld or by fiberglass and so did Arizonia Z car but not sure if they are still around. I have seen fenders with them already install but 99% of them were fiberglass. Steel ones are very rare and very expensive due to labor. The best thing is to try is either yahoo or google , if the above mentioned places don't have. Good luck

but both will work?

Hey I just found that my headlight scoops on my 71 were bonded somewhat to the fenders instead of being bolted. These are fiberglass I see from the breaks at the bolt points. Are all of the headlight scoops or sugar scoops the same for all z cars or were just the series ones fiberglass? Was curious now that i have to buy a set. Thanks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-280Z-Windshield-Wiper-Rebuild-Soft-Parts_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33657QQitemZ7991698378QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW try this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-280Z-Windshield-Wiper-Rebuild-Soft-Parts_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33657QQitemZ7991698378QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW hope this works

If you look on ebay there is someone making windshield wiper rebuild kits for a 240z 's that had the screen name of bambikiller. Let me see if I can find the link.

I love the 240z because its lighter , not as common and doesn't have the larger bumpers. Besides I like the simple aspect of the 240z , just your basic motor , light car and lots of fun.

Very nice g nose by the way , I think you can still get the boot from MSA or BV , I also have seen them on ebay . I love the color , I think the cars looks top notch but the wheels need to be " more japanese" if that makes sense , when I see the wheels you have on the car i think of american car. I think some watanabe or panasport or maybe ssr would look great. But one step at a time get that shifter boot fixed

the 70 and 71 with the type A tranny have an inner boot and the type b style have the top style one that is held in by the ring . For some reason I thought the early years also had the ring as well. I am sure you could modify it for such .

Well I would also include your time at your shop rates and include that in as well as the parts. I would say you could be in the $10-14 range and maybe higher. Alot depends on where the car is located. In the north east or in the rust belt south they are worth quite a bit more. I found with my Z car expierences with insurance people the more good info you give them , sale ads for Z cars with similar condition even ebay items or barrett jackson or just a huge pile of paid bills and proof of money spent on the car they might either want the cars fixed or atleast be more inclinded to give a fair value but you infortunately are put in the prove otherwise situation. By the way who is your insurance and did the person who hit you leave or were they uninsured?

Hmm I think 2002 Rosa Corsa Ferrari red is quite nice but I am a sucker for what my 71 being painted now anyway, but I also love a good BRG or a simple silver. I still want to build a white gnose one though .

Well first start by holding up several banks preferable ones with lots of money. JK I have tried and not with much success to get period correct upgrades , you will find most of the repro are very costly because of the time and expertise involved in them. Most of the wheels can be found at a price expect between 800 and 2500 for a set depending on offset, size and what type . The most difficult to find as in parts that you mention might be the g nose headlight covers. Most other can be found and if you shop at a somewhat reasonable price . But everything is based on what one feels is reasonable.

If you call some of the custom motorcycle places most will give you a local powder coater they use , and usually they are pretty good.

my first full tank fill up was 57 and yea it hurt but still won't trade her

Well first the turbo bearings could be shot or the blades could be worn severly , if the car is very quiet exhaust wise you might have a pluged up exhaust and that will affect in a big way

I think you might want to try some of the used parts places that are specific to z cars

naa shouldn't take more than half hour but he could also test to be sure your o2 sensor is good or bad

Well new fuel injectors should be put on the back burner<probably not needed unless they are leaking or when tested not putting any fuel out> , if the car is out of time that probably will cure most of your running rich issues with a new o2 sensor if that is bad. I would get the timing correct first then check the rest of the ignition system , there is a way to test an o2 sensor and I think it is in any of the manuals. Once you get the basics correct you can fine tune other problems. Good Luck

ahh yes the infamous T5