Boomguy

I would start with eliminating the wiper motor, disconnect it and apply power to it and see if it works. Alternatively hook a multi meter up to the disconnected wiring harness and see what voltage is reading at the terminals when you turn the wiper switch on. Check your Haynes manual for polarity color coding on the wires. Chris

I have been using 303 Protectant for awhile now with good results.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYMNQ/

I agree! One reason this dash has survived is that it has had a dash-topper on it for the last 25 years! Chris

I have removed my original windshield from my 1970 z so as to put in a less scratched and pitted one for an upcoming event. While I have my windshield out I wondered if there was any preventative maintenance I could do on the dash to prevent cracking, it is original and uncracked at this time. Thanks Chris

Good point on the over spray, my e31 head has about a 1/2" of light over spray along the bottom in areas. One nice thing about the por15 is that it is very stable colour wise through many heat cycles where a lot of paints change their hue.

Great thread on this topic. I am about to receive my block back from the machine shop this weekend and picked up a can of bahama sea blue from krylon to test.I have also found this from Por15, https://por15canada.com/por15-store/engine-enamel/por15-engine-enamel.html The Amc/Jeep blue looks really close online and wondered if anyone has looked into it. I know my restoration buddy has used the Healy green on an A series block and it sprayed out perfect.

So the answer is.... drum roll 2007 nissan sentra! I know it shouldn't and the offset is all wrong but it fits both the front and the back. Now I am running a 2.5" x 10" coilover but I guess there is about an inch clearence between the spring and tire. Overall the wheel is about a half an inch smaller than my street tires but I'm ok with that.

Thanks Jarvo2! That's the info that will work well! Being on a 15" rim should help clear the brakes and it's probably only about 25" overall diameter so it should tuck into the spare tire well nicely! Chris

Apologies, I need a Spare Tire (wheel, donut, compact spare) for a 1970 240z that will clear upgraded disk brakes. I need to go to a car wrecking yard today to get something that fits because this is my last day to work on the car. I was looking for someone who has found a Spare that will address my issue. I mentioned the Elantra as I had read that it may work, maybe someone can confirm that? Chris

Thanks for looking Chuck, I am just looking for a model of car that might have a compact spare that would fit. I have read that a 93 Hyundai elantra will work but the center hole isn't big enough for our front hub. Chris

Last free day before I start a rally next week and I realized that my spare tire won't fit my Toyota brake setup on my 240z! Need to get out to a pick and pull ASAP to grab a compact spare or .... to fit in my wheel well, who knows what Works? My wheels are 15" rikens with 205/50/15s. Brakes are Toyota 4 puck s12w and rears are 300z disk setup. Any input greatly appreciated and I will keep searching the archives! Chris

I think I'll stick to the .100 jet combo. I have scoured all the tables on su needles looking for something comparable and honestly there isn't much. Hitachi really had their own ideas of slope for the needles when they came up with this.

Chickenman were those the N38 needles that you used from the 280z? I am finding the N27 too rich at idle and low end.

Hey Chickenman thanks for the reply. You would think somewhere on the Web someone would have posted a comparison between these Hitachi needles abd the Su equivalent.... can't find it. I took my car over to my friends shop and we did some testing with an Innovate Lm1 air/fuel system and laid down some numbers. Thought I had sm needles in her but turned out they were N27 when I double checked, now to figure out the zones with a micrometer and what spacing to use for each zone and how many readings.

Has anybody found an equivalent match to the n27 needle in an SU needle? The n27 needle does not show up in in the SU reference charts. There must be someone who has plotted the 12 or so zones of this needle in the 45 years it has been around. Any help will be greatly appreciated. C Ps. I think I put this originally in the wrong area so I apologize for doubling up here.

Has anybody found an equivalent match to the n27 needle in an SU needle? The n27 needle does not show up in in the SU reference charts. Any help will be greatly appreciated. C

Right again Chickenman! Rotors are 290mm upon closer inspection and explains why I couldn't find a replacement up here. Thankyou again for introducing me to Georges, great guy and did an outstanding job on my Trans! He even gave me an actual input shaft that he milled off to use as an alignment tool for installing the clutch! Worked perfect for the exedy and tilton. I have now lent it to a friend for his track car that he races at Mission Raceway. I had seen those brackets online and thought they looked great. Wanted to make sure I had the correct calipers for them. Hopefully I can find rebuild kits for them, these would be the 81-84 Maxima caliper or the later 85-87?

Time to sort out my rear brakes that came on my car when I bought her awhile ago. Looking at all the pics posted on the site and I think the calipers are Maxima but the disk which is 280mm doesn't seem to match anything listed on sites I have visited. The bracket is home made and I would like to replace it for a milled one. The brake lines are another story... all this done by the previous owner.

K kind of thought #1 Trans in that post most reflected what George told me. I may pick up a 3.53 r200 from a guy that I know just to make 1st a little more usable.

Georges said the torque of a hard start off the line will jar them over time... he has seen the nose of the main shaft sheer off I think is what he said... the bearing starts to go and cuts a groove in the shaft and then it snaps like you scored a tile or piece of glass.

That is how the car came to me 20 something years ago. I always assumed it was a 280z Trans along with the motor.

I may have also aquired one of these from Georges as well as getting the Trans rebuilt....

That is awesome!

So quick update on the 5 speed... I took it down to Georges for him to work on it, very nice and knowledgeable guy, and he tore into it. What he found was one of the bearings on the main shaft had let go but only the inner race. The bearings were still in tact and there was no damage to any hardware in the case. He said the balk rings looked almost new. So a set of new bearings and seals and she is good to go. Now the down side. .. The numbers he gave me for ratios matched that of a transmission out of a 720 truck or a wide ratio, 3.5 , 2.2, 1.4, 1, .8. At least now I know why I was shifting out of first so quickly with my 3.9 rear end! I did find it interesting how similar the ratios are to the original 4 speed of the 240z... just need a 3.3 diff!

Thanks Chickenman! I actually have known Andy for quite awhile, although since he moved I haven't been to his new shop. I tried splitting the trans yesterday , after a couple of hours I called your buddy Georges and dropped it off to his shop. I think the glue that someone warned me about sticking the two halves together won! I figured even if I could get this apart I still will need to drop it off to someone, I would have been so mad if I got it back in the car and one of the gears didn't work. I'll keep you all informed as to what Georges finds and if there is a fix without starting to buy too many hard parts. I have lined up another five speed just in case through a serendipitous text message.