Rusty1

"You can't polish a turd" - Christine (the Steven King movie)

One word, ebay.... They come up every now and then, expect to pay up to $50.00 US for a good one, I recently got one for my 260 from the states $25.00 US Postage was around $25.00 US. I have seen 240z radios, they seem to go for a bit more. It sounds expensive but then again what price do you put on originality. Rusty

I am ashamed to admit it bur I kind of like it, not $11,500 worth of like but still....

From previous posts I have heard you Northern Hemisphere types make reference to Bondo. (You guys use the strangest words) Bog is the correct term for body filler....

Good luck, it can be a tough choice, sometimes you have to be honest with your own motivation/finances/ability etc. There is nothing worse than a dismantled project sitting in your garage for years because you bit off more than you could chew. I don't think that I would risk a complete resto, that's why I chose a car that could be done in stages, now I just need to get started...... Rusty

Just a word of warning about "Optimax", my local motorcycle mechanic has had to rebuild several motorcycle carbs due to Optimax causing the seals to dry up (I am sure there is a technical term for this), this is also applicable to carb equipped cars. Shell has designed the fuel for use in E.F.I. engines and my experience is that it should probably be left there. My understanding is that the P.U.L.P made by Mobil does not have these prob's (although I can't remember what it is called) I have been using Mobil P.U.L.P. with valvemaster and have not had any prob's, but I don't drive my Z everyday. Rusty

I recently bought a pair (2) just in case through ebay, second hand in good nick from the states cost me around $30 au, I don't remember if that included postage, but it wasn't expensive.

Regarding the plug lead separator or clips, I don't know the exact tem, you can fing them inthe U.S. regularly on ebay. As for the light switches, I'm sure if you did a little research they would be a generic switch from any number of Datsun models from the same year (possibly even non Datsun) (I may be mistaken, it wouldn't be the first time.)

I guess that it will remain a mystery, It is a pity that most old car magazine have black and white pictures.

Hi guys, V12horse, you have a green centre in your gear knob, does anybody know what model 260z a black knob with a red centre would be off, I have one and was of the belief that it was correct for my 1974 260. Thanks Rusty

Ash, Sorry to hear about your loss, on the bright side you walked away from it. What must really hurt is that it wasn't even your fault. What are the chances of a Trans Am replice 240z race car project? Rusty

Over the weekend I helped a guy out at the Easternats (local car show/comp). He had a 260Z 2+2 with a tunnel rammed 308 engine. He was having problems with poor brakes, spongy pedal going to the floor and lousy stopping power. In order to compete in the burnout competition he blocked off the rear brake lines and also had a leaking master cylinder, he admitted that the brakes had been allowed to run out of fluid. A working master cylinder and booster from one of my cars was fitted to his car but the problem still remains. Any ideas on what could be wrong? would the proportioning valve be directing fluid to the blocked off rears? As far as I know the system was well bled and there are no leaks.

I begged the boss for permission to add it to my fleet but she has some crazy idea that we need to have more space before we get any more, she just doesn't get it. I don't know if anybody has been to see it yet. Rusty

Carl, A quick question, what's wrong with WD-40? Rusty

Guys, I think that you will find that "Zed" is the correct way to say Z, I can't help it if you Americans get a little confused.... and don't get me started on the fact that you guys have a steering wheel where your glove box (or glove comapartment for non english speaking members) should be. IMHO there are two ways to do things, the right way and the American way. (DISCLAIMER - these comments are not meant to offend, nor do I wish to create an international incident. I just can't resist a cheap shot when I get the chance) Love and kisses Rusty.

Gav, Good to see that you are expecting some nice cars to show up, would you like me to park my unrestored rust bucket around the corner. I would hate to scare off any prospective members.... Then again I can park next to yours so you don't feel so bad. Rusty.

This looks really good Gav, I look forward to meeting other local S30 owners. (Forum GOD??? who died and made you King, I think somebody has got delusions of grandeur) Rusty

Hi Zaka, welcome aboard. For $3,200 you would want to be getting a car in a structurally sound condition. Main areas to check are the floor (lift the carpet and check) and the chassis rails (look underneath the car, they run through to behind the front seats). Also check the engine bay firewall and battery area for cancer. Depending on what you want to do to the car will determine what you spend to buy it. If you intend restoring the car make sure the car is complete, most stuff is still available but not everything. Don't worry about the 240Z carbs, they are a common mod and in some peoples opinion an improvement. My advice would be if the cars rust is non structural and the interior is sound then $3,200 may not be too bad but remeber, 2+2's are more common than 2 seaters and it is a buyers market out there. Rusty

Axelr8 One big problem with your plan is that sliding electric sunroofs normally mount above the roof lining. I have a couple of 2+2's, the roof lining is stuck to the metal roof, leaving no room for the sunroof mechanicals. EScanlon's idea is much better, any decent panel beater should be able to fabricate a new roof, you will also have the advantage of a car with a much better re-sale value. Good luck Rusty

How long is a piece of string? The old phrase, you get what you pay for usually rings true when you start talking panel beaters. I have no idea on what sort of money you would be charged but for a ballpark, allow at least $5,000. (this is pure guesswork) My advise to you is take your car around several panel beaters, tell them exactly what you want and get some quotes. Also check out some of their other work to see if it meets your standard. The most expensive is not always the best, but be wary of overly cheap quotes. If you want to save money, the more work you do yourself, the less work you will have to pay for. good luck.

The Wraith....... maybe somebody should start a thread about the worst car chases of all time, I'm sure it would rate a mention, along with other vomit ridden favourites such as: Cobra, (sly Stallone, nice car, bad movie) Gone in 60 seconds (the remake was a load of crud) XXX (need I say more) That is just the tip of the iceberg:sick:

Hi gee At the moment in oz Japanese classics seem to hold similar value whether the car is modified or original (in pristine condition). I believe that as these cars get rarer there will be fewer and fewer original condition zeds and they will increase in value. My adivce is do what you want to your car but keep all of the original parts so it can be returned to original. My 260z has the original running gear in it, I am about to put an L28 with 240 carbs, cam, headers etc into it aling with a 5 speed, but I am going to store the original L26 and auto for resale. Good luck. Rusty

Hi Zrush, If your (or Scotts) starter is having trouble cranking the engine it may be worth checking the condition of your earth lead. If the engine is not making a good earth it can have the symptoms of a weak battery or starter. Just a thought. Rusty

Mr C. Good luck with your restoration, I may be able to assist if you need a parts car, I believe that the 128x had a few design flaws, they were all prone to bending axles and I found that the tyres never had much gripROFL

Thanks 240zx, It is important to learn something new every day. Russ