DHA280Z

Thank you for the hint. I will check the transistor wiring in the FSM. great to be in the same time zone!!

I will try this fix. may ias what you did with red&green block terminal wires, these used to connect to the distributor? The 123ignition distributor connects directly to the coil and ground, so far leaving these two wires unused. When I connected them to the +- in the coil, nothing happens. Should those be reconnected after the installation of the condenser? See figure

Hi Paul Prince, could you post some pictures of the wring of the condenser? I have the same issue but I am keeping the original EFI system. my tacho doesn’t work . 280Z - 1978

Hi Matthew, did you installed the AC hoses kit from Godzilla? Any reporting on your experience? Ordered a kit two weeks ago from them but they seem more slow than a snail… the items have not even shipped after I placed the order more than two weeks ago… cheers, DHA

Indeed, it looks out of mars, perfect tool for such job!!

Indeed No Harbor Freight stores, but those pliers are also for sale here…😄

After several frustrating attempts and hours of back pain, I figured out a faster and easier way for REINSTALLING the clevis pins for both, brake booster and clutch master cilinder. Inserting the pin might actually takes a couple of minutes for the brake booster and bit longer for the master cilinder but it required a few previous steps that might take 1 hour. 0. Remove driver seat, your back will love it! Is only 4 screws. Is very important that you can see the location where the pin goes. I tried the Braille method… it won’t work! 1. Grind both pins conic… this facilitates guiding and inserting the pin into the holes of pedal lever and the connecting rode to booster and clutch master cilinder (see picture); 2. Keep lose the set of nuts fastening booster and clutch master cilinder (the loser the better but keep the nuts in the bolts). This enables to easily move the connecting roods and make their holes match the holes in the pedals; 3. Add a bit of grease to both pins, this helps sliding the pins while lubricating them for future operation; 4. Proceed to insert the pins, wiggle the pin vs the connecting rod. You will be surprised how easy each pin find its place; 5. Use a long pointed but small vice-grip pliers to reinsert the R clips; the booster clip must be gripped on it round bit flat to the pliers teeth. For the clutch master cilinder, perpendicular to the pliers teeth, be careful don’t press too much otherwise you will deform the clip. For both clips rotate the pins, so that you can see pin-hole. 6. Retighten clutch master cilinder and booster and the job is done! this requires to have some light source, and still, much parsimony needed. This part of rebuilding all that is in the engine bay has been the most difficult! Pfff!

I am in this stage 😅, I was looking for a smart trick, someone in high school gave me the nickname “manotas”. So, no hope, at least I got a laugh while reading the tread…

Dear Zed Head, only to let you know that my Datsun is already running well. The problems I was having were due to an immobilizer linked to the ignition relay that was installed by the previous owner. I cut a wire that was energizing the ignition coil. Now problem solved.

gratuitous prejudice there is an answer to that, relevant in the case that someone actually needs the relay https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/the-lucas-jokebook notice that the relay was made in Germany

Hi All, I have one new replacement made by Lucas (German brand) for the relay AI3 000 002. I bought for my Datsun280Z/78 but afterwards realized that for the 78 model is different. If anyone needs this relay drop me a line. Cheers,

Yes the T plug is in. Will check grounds tomorrow, now is wet, cold and dark outside. 🥶

The voltmeter works but not the Amp light

Indeed, there is no brake red light and buzzing (bip-bip-bip) sound doesn’t comes out either

You are right I was referring to the voltmeter gauge and red charge lamp. The Datsun is an USA model with fuel injection

Is a 78 model but actually manufactured in late 1977, so the features of the 78 model apply

What would happen with only ground disconnected?

All worked fine and battery was disconnected. The issues I was trying to solve was faulty contacts for headlights and a stutter (electric failure just above 65mph that will stop after reducing power). All worked fine but these details

This is an old topic tread I wonder if anybody will still see it. All the info resulted very informative and useful to start the upgrade of the fuse links for amore modern version. Anyhow, I just have a question. I replaced the fuse links with the Maxi fuse version and respective fuse-bracket. This involved -only- cutting the four supply cables (white) and the lead cables with the power to the different control functions (white-red) and reconnecting them in the bracket. This is the only change I did. I have voltage signal before and after the new fuses, so all fine. The detail now is that the Amp light in the dashboard does not work and no voltage is measures (also the fuel gauge is dead). The engine cranks but does not start. in view do the simple replacement I did all the rest should work but now something obviously is not right. I would appreciate an indication of something that I might not have considered. See picture of current install.