CN280z

I honestly have no clue how to check that or where to begin lol. I’m a very novice mechanic lol

1975 280z auto fuel injected Misfire video?? Alright, my car was running into issues starting I just replaced my starter and now it’s starting up like a charm! However now I’m on to a new problem. when the car idles it sounds like is a little sputtery in the exhaust but the main issue is the second there is load on the car under 25mph I’m hearing popping coming from the engine. It sounds like maybe a misfire. I placed my hand in front of my air intake and I can feel it sucking in air until it pops then I can feel air push out. Then it goes back to sucking in air. the second I get over 25mph it stops. So I can drive at highway speeds or normal speeds around town. But if i come to a red light or a stop sign the pops start again under load while driving until 25mph then it stops again. i just replaced the fuel filter and it seems to be running better over all but the popping is still there. I replaced one fuel injector back in the day but I don’t know if this could be a possible problem. I pulled all of my distributor caps off and noticed each one caused a noticeable difference in performance so I don’t think it’s a bad spark plug. So I’m at a loss atm and I don’t want to go spending 100’s replacing everything fuel related just to figure out I’m wrong lol.

Haha that’s what I was afraid of. I have someone coming by to help get me started on understanding it all. He is going to show me how to read a wiring diagram also. I’ll text everything to make sure it’s running right. I’ll let y’all know what fixes if all. i figured the car was also having secondary issues of the ignition switch going bad too. Glad I’m at least somewhere in the right area.

I used a volt meter hand held to give y’all the volts rather than the amps. I have an amp meter in the car. i showed starting the car because the draw that I am having started when the problem started with me starting the car. that video was while the car was being jump started and fully at 13.9v plenty enough to start the car but I have to jiggle the keys 3-5 times to get it to actually even attempt to turn over. im assuming the events are correlated. I’ve been told starter, ignition switch, voltage regulator. Possibly bad battery/alternator. Just trying to give as much info to help narrow it down. I know it doesn’t showcase the volt draw or anything like that hoping it shows someone something though lol. I down right hate electrical and it doesn’t quite make sense to me:(.

Hope this helps with the fact that the video won’t download <——- click to see issues with starting the 280z also I uploaded some pictures of the regulator. It looks decent but there is some black melted goop that has hardened. Dunno if anyone knows what that is.

1975 non Cali model

I have a 280z that sat for 5 years. I got the car up and running a few weeks ago. I failed an emissions test (am planning on getting classic car insurance which by passes emission test requirements in AZ) (idk if that has anything to do with my issue but figured I’d mention it.) the car was running fine and I didn’t notice any issue. I had to turn the key a few times to get the car to start but it stayed running. I drove it around, got an oil change at big o tires. When it came back and after a few new body parts and paint (which I had to remove my tail lights for, but reinstalled from what I can tell correctly) the car now won’t stay on. As I drive the car around the amps drop to under 8 and the car dies. Once dead I have to jump start it to get it back running and shortly after the same issue will occur. It constantly does this. Now it’s to the point that when I jump the car and turn it off it’s instantly dead again. i assumed maybe this was an alternator issue. I changed the alternator today and I’m experiencing the same issue. When jumped the car sits at 13v removing the cables it lowers to 12v then slowly drains till it chokes out. Sometimes quickly sometimes 10-15 mins later. I have a video of the issue with starting the car, it acts like there is no power then instantly starts after 4-5 turns of the key. (It doesn’t crank when it turns then fires right up.) I checked all of the fuses I could find on the interior fuse panel and they are all good and removing them doesn’t change my parasitic draw. Which is registering 9-11v if I’m reading that correctly. (I am not an amazing mechanic by any means and am figuring this out as I go) my fusible links look good…I am just at a loss and don’t even know where to start. I have searched forum after forum and all over the internet and the closest issue I found was someone talking about their MAF but mine seems to be running just fine, when I remove the harness the car chokes out and dies like it should. i just spent close to 3k on body parts to fix the car up. and now I can’t drive it. Which is a total pain. Hope someone might have an idea on the next step. the battery was purchased in the last 2 weeks and the alternator purchased yesterday here is the video of what I’m experiencing please ask questions to get me thinking about more. Remember also my knowledge base is limited haha 280z has 36k original miles, motor, tranny and majority of original parts FullSizeRender.MOV