RubenD

That looks exactly like the one on my car. My guage is indicating almosg no oil presure at idle speeds which is obviously concerning. I'm curious to see if its a sensor problem or something else. Thanks again.

Thanks all! I ordered the OEM part from the link that SteveJ posted. I appreciate all the help!

Does anyone know if the OEM oil pressure sender had a wirelug connector or a bullet style? I don't see a picture of it in the FSM. I'm looking to replace the oil pressure sender on my 4/74 260Z. The one on the car has a wire lug with a screw that holds the wire in place. All the replacement units i've found have a bullet style connector. Before I cut wiring to change connectors I thought I'd ask around. If the correct one is with the wire lug, can a replacement be found anywhere?

Thanks zspert! I spoke with Bruce at Ztherapy today and he confirmed they have them and they're $50. He also said I shouldn't worry about the small divot in my float because they're made of foam, not hollow as I assumed.

I accidentally chipped the float on my back carb while tuning😭it was a stupid mistake but I didnt know how brittle these are. Need to get a replacement. People are really price gouging for these one ebay. Anyone know where I can buy a replacement for a reasonable price. I edited the post to come clean about how this happened. Normally when I put the lids back on I insert a small flat screwdriver through the drain plug to gently push up on the float while blowing through the input port. I do this before tightening down the screws to make sure that the float doesn't get stuck open. This usually works well and prevents the float stuck problem which necessitates immediate disassembly again. Anyway, today when I reached that point in my process I had this pick in my hand and lazily tried to use it instead of the small screwdriver. The pick must have turned sliglty and snagged on the float as I was pulling it out. Also by the way, I apologize if i'm misusing this old thread with this side topic and long explanation.

I made a cheap imitation while waiting for Randalla to build more. Sharing here incase anyone else wants to try, and I also have a question. I bought these polypropelene elbos on amazon and attached clear hose at the barb end. I also used an o-ring at the threads. This material doesn't dissolve in gasoline at room temp but I probably won't use these with engine hot. Anyway, my question is about the ideal level. I read that with float-sync the ideal level is 14mm above the top of the metal base. My question is what is the length from the top edge of the bolt on float-sync to the top of the metal base? Adding that to the 14mm should allow me to get close with these. Any help appreciated. The picture at the end shoes the level my front carb is at now after using the method of 0.55" gap between top of float and lid. I think it's too low.

I've been looking online for an aftermarket cargo bay carpet kit and floormats for our 260z 2+2. Unfortunately I only find ones for the coupe. Can anyone recommend any shops that have carpet kits for 2+2. We would also love to get an allweather floormat set including cargo area mat for the 2+2. Any help appreciated.

Thats very interesting and good point about there being enough fuel in the float bowls. We have roundtop SU carbs. I'll have to study this more closely after I get the tank back. We took the gas tank to a local radiator shop to be cleaned out and sealed. I was looking through the FSM after you replied yesterday and one thing I noticed is the wires that go to that bracket on my car, don't match the colors shown in the FSM and they're routed back in a peculiar way that doesnt look stock. Looks like a previous owner may have added some wiring for a fuelpump then removed it. I'll need to trace that back and see whats going on. Thanks again!

Thanks for the answer. I didn't even know that was an option. I think i'll keep it for now incase I need to add that later. The car seems to run well with the mechanical fuel pump, but I do have to crank the starter for a while when its cold then it finally sputters to life. I could see how an electric fuel pump could help prime the system. Will read up on this. Thanks again!

While taking the gas tank off our 260z 2+2, 4/74 build date, I noticed a bracket that is not currently used. I looked through the FSM and didnt see this. Can someone tell me what this was for originally?