jmortensen

Now that is a can of worms, but suffice it to say I wholeheartedly disagree.

Maybe it will matter when OUR gas prices go up 200% because of taxes. It's coming...

I've taken 2 or 3 out of 240Zs and cleaned a bunch of crap out of them and gotten them to work again. If that doesn't work, then replace.

Mine is registered. It's a stripped shell on a rotisserie, but it is registered...

I think what you'd be looking for if this were the case is a split throwout fork (not unheard of). That's a hell of a lot of pressure to put on the fork, and it isn't that flexible. I'm still thinking the master is bad or the adjustment at the pedal is F'ed up. I just can't see it being anything else.

There are several adjustments here. One is free play in the pedal the other is in the linkage between the pedal and the master. You can have free play in the pedal and have the master linkage screwed up. I speak from experience. That said if you're replaced the slave and not the master, I'd replace the master. I'd also disconnect the slave and shoot some brake cleaner through the hard and soft lines just to blow any crap out of the line before you continue.

Any machine shop should be able to get pistons for you, no problem at all. I agree with Ron. Run 6 Nissan pistons or 6 of the same aftermarket pistons. They won't be balanced right out of the box, but they'll be a lot closer than mismatched sets.

Agreed, although if he checked under the boot and there is no fluid, I'm thinking they're probably OK. One thing that could catch a person out pretty easily is not knowing that you ABSOLUTELY MUST have a bit of free play in the linkage between the pedal and the master. If the master can't retract all the way then it will never open the little port to allow fluid from the reservoir into the master. This means more fluid can't get into the system, so you're pushing the same fluid with bubbles in it back and forth in the hard line.

The Eagle Premier had an especially strong engine. I worked for a Jeep/Eagle dealer just before they shut the Eagle brand down, and they were famous for the rest of the car crumbling around the engine which ran perfectly.

The big flat washer isn't necessary, strictly speaking. I found some tube that was fairly snug and welded it onto my new strut tubes, as I had already welded the GC washer on my old struts. The washer is a doubly weird choice because they actually cut a flat spot in it so that it won't stick out that much further towards the tire. You would think if they just found the right tube size they could buy one tube and cut hundreds of pieces from it. Two pieces of tube would handle both strut sizes... ??? I should mention that I had some issues with my adjusters and Ground Control helped me out some 10 years later. Good customer service there! Jay is the man!

It's not on jackstands. Rotisserie baby!!! This baby can do 2 maybe 3 rpm... So fast ones don't count then... bummer.

I think I figured out the discrepancy. If you have to buy the parts at a normal markup, that should add about $200 - $250 to the cost of the rebuild. The rest of it works out to 5ish hours at $60-75 per hour. I don't know current labor rates, but if parts are included in that $550 that sounds more reasonable to me.

What if it's in the middle of a V8 swap and has a full cage installed and a bunch of suspension mods welded to the chassis? In other words, does mine count?

My buddy used to charge 5 hours labor to do a Datsun 5 speed. I thought he was going straight out of the book for time. $500 seems like a lot of money.

14.7 psi is the air pressure at sea level.

I think stock compression on an L28 is 8.3:1. L24 was 9:1. I wouldn't go over about 9.5:1 on a street motor. Someone mentioned backing off the timing to prevent pinging, and I agree with him and Paul Ruschman. I'd rather lose a full point in compression and be able to run the optimal timing then have to back the timing off to prevent pinging. There is a good deal of power to be lost in those last couple degrees of timing, and it's a real bummer to have to back it off.

The 6AL has a rev limiter. One way of checking if it is hooked up would be to try to rev the engine past the limiter. There is a little "pill" as MSD calls it plugged into the side of the MSD box that shows what the limiter is currently set at. The advantage of MSD is more power, less plug fouling, better mileage, etc. A buddy of mine did back to back dyno tests with stock Nissan EI and MSD and found an 11 whp increase (on a 510 no less) with MSD vs without. Pertronix gets rid of your points, so it too is very beneficial to have.

For a cheaper option you might consider some Diamond Racing steel wheels: http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/P10100032.JPG http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/frnt_side_tire.jpg http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/zongrid1.jpg

That's two of us! Was your's also the Pinto wannabe with the 2.3L?

The important part of this whole thing is the strut. If the strut you have is crap then the coilover threads being integrated into it means relatively little. If you have a good strut that you can use to build this, then you might have something, but I think the selling point is going to be the quality of the strut, not the fact that the threads aren't on a sleeve. You might want to check this out: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138601 And this: http://www.arizonazcar.com/coil.html

What is the difference between the coilovers that we've all been using for decades and "the real deal"? Are they something other than a threaded sleeve, a nut to go on that sleeve, and a top hat for the top of the spring?

I would guess that this is probably the clutch master and/or slave going out. Pull the boots on the master and slave, if brake fluid comes out, they need replacing. Common practice is to replace both at once.

The steel sleeve should move. The urethane bushing should stay stationary. If you're talking about the rear transverse link and the rear control arm bushings, there isn't much to do other than slap as much grease as you can in there. On the outer rear control arm bushings you can drill the control arm and install zerks so that you can lube them up later. Doesn't work on the inners though, because the bushing isn't tight enough and grease just comes right back out.

Hey, the auto industry just needed a jumpstart. Now their sales are THROUGH THE ROOF, and it's all because of C4C. Or not. http://online.wsj.com/mdc/public/page/2_3022-autosales.html

I think a broken bottom mount would work fine if the bumper on top stopped the upward movement of the diff. The only thing the stock diff mount would do is keep the diff from hitting the crossmember, and unless the rubber comes entirely out I don't think that's likely to be a problem.