jmortensen

The first part is totally normal for an open diff as doradox mentioned. To fix the one wheel peel, you'll need a limited slip.

Or, if you are completely inept like me when it comes to math, you can use this handy little spreadsheet: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126700

Search for "two post lift" or "two post hoist". There was a discussion about this topic a couple months ago. I think a lift like you're looking at is fairly useless unless you're doing a lot of exhaust work. I'd much rather have a two post so you easily get the wheels off the ground to work on suspension, brakes, rotate tires, etc.

Jeromio had this issue and I don't think his car was ever raced. I've seen it come up several times now since you alerted me to it.

You need to have adjustments available to change alignment. Trying to bend parts to fix the problem doesn't sound right at all. I would suggest that you only "pull a car" to fix it if the frame is bent and the pulling is done on a frame rack.

Yes, that would be correct. There have been enough of these popping up that it wouldn't surprise me at all if it had gone unnoticed for 35 years... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC07A

Coffey has found several struts with the spindle pin hole bored into the strut at an angle. If you're not seeing something bent I'm guessing that may be the issue. Like I said before, put the G Machine camber adjust bushings on the inners and if the uprights are OK, call it a day.

I think you can fix this problem for all intents and purposes by just installing the camber adjusting bushings and the plates. That eliminates the spindle pin problems and makes it much more of a DIY project. Ideally you'd do the outers too, but if you're just looking to fix the toe issue I don't think it's necessary. There isn't a whole lot of rubber in the outers, so they are not going to be the source of a really bad toe problem.

That is an MSA Type II airdam/bumper combo. Also can be had as a ground effects kit with side skirts and rear end skirt/rear bumper piece, this car doesn't appear to have the full kit. It also has ZG flares and fender mirrors. I think all of that stuff is available from MSA. Depending on where you got the parts I think you could imitate the look for $500 or $600. Of course there would be some bodywork in sealing up the original holes for the mirrors, and cutting out the rear wheel wells for tire clearance. I'm assuming you would do that yourself, and you could figure on the cost of a paint job when the rest of that is done.

I wouldn't shim between the hub and the rotor hat. I'd shim between the hat and the rotor. If you have runout on the hub, you can turn the outer face of the hub. If you have runout on the backside of the hub where the rotor bolts up, I'd replace the hub.

That sounds like you also have warped rotors. I ran rod ends which are metal to metal bearings for years, no vibration under braking other than the road surface vibration. There isn't anything in the "geometry" or in solid bushings or rod ends that would cause vibration that feels like a warped rotor. Or if there is, I haven't come across it.

In my limited experience I've found the Panasports to be quite a bit heavier than most other "racing" wheels, this includes the lightweights. Keizer or Kodiak or similar cheap aluminum racing wheel are in the 10-11 lb range, according to the last link below the light weight Panasport is 16 for a narrower 15x7. http://sccaforums.com/forums/thread/42930.aspx http://www.914club.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=51230&mode=linearplus http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-tires-wheels/55214-all-manufacturers-n-z-wheel-weight-specs.html

You had to switch to 280 hubs, right? Did you check runout on the hubs? Hybrid Z had a thread about rotor runout on the cast iron rotor/aluminum hat setups maybe a year ago and the answer that sounded best to me was to shim the rotor/hat interface to minimize the runout. If you cut the rotors then you create a thin spot in the rotor which won't heat up evenly and may cause further problems. By shimming the thickness of the rotor isn't changed. This is backed up by my own personal experience in cutting rotors. The more you cut rotors the quicker they warp. It got to the point where I won't even cut them anymore, I just replace now.

I used the ABS coupler for years on my Z which I drove daily. No problems at all.

1. I am going with G nose headlight covers with the chrome trim. Those things are stupid expensive... 2. Probably #1.

It has to be the transverse link mounting plates. Here's a picture I found in the gallery: The two black vertical plates that are about 4" wide and locate the rear control arm bushings are the parts in question.

What about the big plates in the back??? These "uprights" or plates bolt to the frame rail and hang down in the back locate the rear of the rear control arms. I've heard of them cracking on ITS cars, but I haven't heard too many other problems, as I think they're generally so flexible that they don't break, even though is a really weak design in terms of positively locating the control arms. There have also been various reports on the internet, I think first identified by John Coffey, where the strut spindle pin hole is bored at an angle, throwing off the rear toe. And then of course you've got your bent suspension parts scenarios too. I'd be inclined to do as Coffey suggested, get some Aluminum/Delrin G Machine bushings and deal with it that way. I'd take a real close look at the uprights back there if he want's to replace them. They just aren't a problem that I've seen come up on the forums very often, and I don't know where you'd get a set other than used or buying a Suspension Techniques rear anti-sway bar (the sway bar mounts right to the modified uprights that come in the kit).

Mine were not jerky and they weren't overly sensitive either. They worked fine, they just didn't work enough. Parking brake was pretty easy to adapt: I used a ebrake cable from a late 80's 240SX which hooks straight up to the caliper no problem. Then on the front end of the cable I removed the rear bell crank and attached the cable directly to the handle. Worked fine like that, and I had it adjusted to about 3 clicks. I really liked that brake setup for the parking brake. As to switching back to drums, I wouldn't. I'd either keep what you have or upgrade to a better disc setup (there are many options). I hate working on drums, especially on a Z where the aluminum drum has corroded to the stub axle so bad the damn thing is practically welded on... I had enough of that!!! EDIT--Re-read your post and if you can't lock up the wheels at all, I'd guess you have a bad booster. You should be able to lock up the fronts at least, but the bias problem will leave the rears doing relatively little in comparison to the fronts. When I had the Toy fronts and ZX rear I did a driving school. One of the things they did was have us drive through a big puddle and slam on the brakes just to get the feel of locking them up. I was told by my instructor that my fronts locked but the rears didn't.

Those are 79-81 280ZX rear calipers (and probably come on the Maxima from the same years too). I ran those on a bracket from Z-Quip for years. They're a reliable caliper but the pads are tiny and I had a hard time getting the brake bias dialed in when using 4x4 front calipers. I was able to dial it in when I used stock front calipers with those rears.

Details? Looks like you have a fairly low ceiling in there. I have 10' in my garage which is just a bit shy of what you need for a full size...

That's a good point and absolutely the bar should be padded. Your head moves all over the place in an accident. With bars along the tops of the doors though, the danger of serious injury is much worse, even if the bar is padded.

I think that's a very wise decision. I wouldn't put a cage in any Z that I didn't intend to drive with a helmet; there isn't enough room inside the car to avoid hitting the cage with your head in an accident. There are extended discussions of roll bars and cages over at hybridz.org. Search and ye shall find.

The 260Z is heavier. Whether it is a little bit heavier or a lot heavier depends on if its an early or late 260. If you want to go fast, the less weight you have to move the faster you'll go.

How old are the tires? They are "cantilevered" slicks, so you can look around for that and see what the current prices are like, but if they're old they're probably not worth much if anything, because they won't perform like a new set just due to age, especially if they haven't been bagged.

It previously had a price tag of $250K on it and was supposedly sold at one point. I wondered what rich idiot bought it, maybe there was no rich idiot...