jmortensen

Let's just say there were expletives involved...

The 6a with a blaster will hit harder than the E12-80 with blaster. I speak from experience having been zapped by both. The difference is the MSD uses capacitive discharge, and of course multiple sparks under 3500 or whatever it is rpm.

Hey John, I didn't see a CR listed there. Those guys are running 13:1 or 14:1, right?

Man does that look good...

Hmm... I was pretty sure I got them from McMaster. It was a few years ago though. Could be I'm just remembering it wrong. Do you have TS's price handy? http://www.cornettbolt.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=24998&category_id=730 Has 5 20mm long bolts for $2.35

Buy from there and you'll get "Tacoma screwed". They have higher prices than even McMaster Carr on most fasteners that I've tried to buy. I got 10 x 1.25mm cap screws from McMaster after first trying TS and being shocked at the prices. It's been a year or so, but I seem to remember buying a bag full of stuff for $85 and not being to happy about it, going home and checking mcmaster.com and finding the same parts were about $55 after shipping. I hate returning things, but that was one I took back.

My theory is that the Z has roughly parallel steering. Adding Ackermann (inside wheel turns more sharply than the outside wheel) should increase the turn in response a lot. I had a friend with a 510 that turned in OK, but wasn't anything to write home about. He bent his steer knuckles to get 100% Ackermann and the car was absolutely transformed. With no other changes it was super loose, damn near impossible to drive fast. Since the Z is front steer car (rack in front of crossmember), there isn't a whole hell of a lot to do to get more Ackermann. You can install longer steer knuckles, but that slows down the steering response. It's difficult and requires some welding/fabrication, but you can relocate the rack rearwards closer to the crossmember. That's what I did. I don't think I was able to get 100% Ackermann, but maybe 60 or 70%. Someday if I get the thing running I'll report back on how it worked out...

You're going to need more negative camber than that for track days. A lot more.

Hey, at least it's aerodynamically inefficient. :dead:

I don't know why this thread is coming back from the dead, but I've personally had warped rotors on my 93 Toy P/U 2wd. It's a slip on rotor, and I always torque the lug nuts, and I know how to use a torque wrench. Cut the rotors, they warped again. Cut them again, they warped again. Each time was the same, when put on the lathe the cutter hit one side of the rotor and as the rotor turned around it hit the opposite cutter. They were not thicker in one part of the rotor and then thinner in another. They were tacoed, warped, whatever you want to call it. When I switched from Metal Masters to stock Toyota pads the problem went away. You can try and tell me that my hubs were dirty or that I didn't torque the lug nuts correctly three times in a row but have done so ever since, or that I don't understand what "warped" means, but I'm not buying any of that. Carroll Smith was right about a lot of things. On this issue of brake pad deposits, I think he was wrong. Maybe not absolutely wrong, but certainly I believe his statement that braking doesn't cause warpage was wrong. He was also wrong in Tune to Win when he espoused anti-Ackermann. That doesn't make him any less right when he was right, which was about 99.999% of the time.

Got it. I thought the high lift tracks had something to do with the scissor lift. By Rob's description this one is a bit bigger than your traditional scissor lift which lifts the car from the body between the wheels. The "normal" scissor lifts that I've used usually lift to about 4' and are fine for doing brakes and suspension and that type of thing, but aren't good for much else, because the lift mechanism is in the way of getting under the car, and it only lifts the car 4'. If this is a drive on and you can walk underneath it, then it is less useful for suspension work because the car is still on it's wheels when it is lifted up in the air. Most of them have braces from side to side, I don't see that in the pictures, but even if they're not there the scissor part of the lift itself and the lack of room between the two tracks are going to be a limiting factor when you're trying to pull a transmission or a full exhaust system. You sometimes need to finagle a part around to get it out or you may need to get into a weird position to access a bolt, and 4 post lifts don't really allow for that. Go check out 10 auto shops and you'll see the same thing everywhere: 2 post hoists all the way around, with the possible exception of one drive on 4 post which is undoubtedly an alignment rack. At least that's the way it was at almost every shop that I worked at. 2 post is really the way to go and allows for the most access to the underside of the car. The only thing it doesn't allow for is alignments and other things that you might do with the suspension loaded, setting corner weights or removing swaybar preload, etc. I worked at one Porsche shop where we had an alignment system that worked with the 2 post hoist: it had 4 stands which were set up under the wheels and had slip plates on all 4 corners to settle the suspension. You would think that it was the best of both worlds, but it was really impractical to set the stands perfectly level, just due to the imperfections in the floor and the fact that every car would get pulled onto the 2 post hoist in a different spot, meaning that the stands wouldn't end up in exactly the same spots on the floor every time. Still, for a home owner with one race car type of situation, that's probably the best solution IMO, and it wouldn't be too hard to build the stands.

Not familiar with high lift tracks. How does that work?

A scissor lift is fine until you want to change a clutch or work on the exhaust. You can walk under it, but you can't access the bottom of the car very well. Two post is the way to go for most of us I think.

Oops, I said reluctor instead of stator. I went to the dealership, showed the guy the part (stator) and noted the broken magnet. He ordered, when I came back I had the metal part without the magnet attached.

I had ASSumed that the 12 was the diameter of the ring gear bolt holes. Guess I was wrong on that one...

I ordered the part from the dealership several years ago and got the reluctor ring, but there was no magnet attached to it. You could make your own with some of that flexible vinyl magnetic stuff that they make magnetic signs with.

Tom, if you recall "Mike" over at Hybrid Z had tried and failed to get a group buy going on these, but supposedly they were NLA. I had felt that Mike had handled that situation particularly badly and had wondered if they really were NLA or if the guy just told him that to get rid of him. You got me curious again so I called Precision. They apparently sold out to another company called Amix Ada (I think that's what she said). They didn't have the part in stock, but suggested I call Jeepers Creepers. I told her I didn't think Jeepers Creepers was going to have Nissan parts, she said to call them so I was polite and pretended to take the number down. Then I figured I'd try Reider Racing... guess what? I got Amix Ada again. They do not sell to the public, just to vendors. Apparently the vendors are places like Jeepers Creepers. The second lady I spoke to seemed to know what was going on and she said the part number LOM59-12 was not in stock, and that the ordering dept was gone for the day, so she couldn't give me an estimate of when or if they would be available.

Have you read any of the stuff about the left side shaft bottoming? That's a problem that seems to be popping up more and more on Hybrid Z. I lengthened my rear control arms, you can also grind a bit off the end of the shaft or have a shorter CV shaft custom made. I think Ross was talking about doing that a while back if there was enough interest...

I can't recall off the top of my head, but I want to say the KAAZ has 16 clutches in it or something like that. It's a lot more than what you or I have got in our Nissan LSDs. What you have there is fine, and by installing the extra clutches and getting rid of the stupid spacers that Nissan used it should handle a lot of power than the original setup did.

BAD IDEA!!! REALLY REALLY BAD IDEA!!! It's not just the tooth count that matters. The pitch of the teeth on the ring gear of a 3.90 are way different than a 3.70. In other words, the number of teeth is the same, but their angle and length is because they have to mesh with a different number of teeth on the ring gear. I even think it's a bad idea to swap a ring gear from one 3.70 to another. When a ring and gear set is made it goes through several polishing procedures, the last one on most domestic cars is done with the ring and pinion running together, so when it is done they are effectively a "matched set". While I'm not sure that Nissan does this, it really isn't hard to find the gear ratio you want, and swapping the LSD from one ring gear to another just involves unbolting it from one and bolting it onto the other (using ring gear bolt spacers if you want). Here is the right way to install an LSD in your open R200. It's not a mystery: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119990

More clutches, stock Nissan out of the 300ZXT has a weak clutch pack. The Nismo unit has more clutches, the KAAZ has about 50% more than the Nismo. Also you can get the KAAZ unit in a 1.5 way or a 2 way, Nissan's are all 2 way. Which one is better is up for debate, but most would probably say that 1.5 way is easier to drive for road racing or autoxing.

I had a similar problem on my first Z that I bought from the original owner. It was an automatic and I actually changed the breaker plate in the dual point distributor to a single point distributor in an attempt to fix (among other things). Turned out after much frustration to be bad spark plugs. They looked NEW, ran fine with no load, for whatever reason if you got the rpms above 4500, they'd cut out. I don't remember that problem happening in lower gears, just in 3rd, so I think it was a load issue. I chased that problem round and round for months with the help of a Nissan master tech, and it was the stupid plugs... It definitely sounds secondary ignition to me. Rotor, cap, plug wires, plugs, points and condensor if you're still running them.

Is it assholish for me to say that I have one sitting in my shop?!! Sorry, couldn't help myself... :stupid: Seriously though, I would expect you to pay about $200 for the diff, and the LSD is a big unknown. If you find yourself spending more than say $5-600 on the LSD, I suggest you take a look at a new KAAZ unit. They're really better than the Nissan unit and I think they run something like $800. Factor in some new seals, and you're probably looking at something like $750 or $800 for a good deal on an R200 in 4.11 with Nissan LSD, again assuming you can find all the components at a good price. Then if you're like me you can get sucked into CV shafts... it never ends.

200SX Turbo has a 4.11 R200. I'm not aware of any others in the US...

The front brakes go to the larger reservoir. I remember bending the lines by hand to hit the right reservoir. That won't cause your pedal issue, but as the brakes wear the fluid level drops, so you do want the front brakes attaching to the larger reservoir.