jmortensen

I think most shocks have a lifetime warranty. I know the Tokicos do, whether you are talking about the blues or the Illuminas. I think the KYB's do as well.

You can get several different LSD's for the R180. Nissan Comp had one, Quaife, and a company in Australia which was similar to a Quaife with helical gears. I wouldn't be surprised if there were others too. The issue is that the ring gear ID changed in the mid 70's. So you can get a new R180 to go with your new posi, or you can try to find an old LSD to go with the original gearset.

You can use loctite on suspension bolts, sure. The transverse link and halfshafts should have lockwashers on them though. There are torque specs for the suspension bolts too. Might be a good idea to go around and check everything.

I'm not trying to follow you around from forum to forum being a ****. But I think the more you look at these issues, the less important they become. Some questions to ask yourself: The rod ratio would still be worse than the L24, so then are you "giving up" hp to go with the worse rod ratio? What rod ratio would you have if you used L24 rods with a custom piston in an L28 block? What displacement? Higher rod ratio allows for slower piston acceleration and deceleration. At what point do L engine pistons tend to fail due to piston speed? Are you going to spin your engine anywhere near those speeds with any combination of crank and rods? Are you a car show snob? Do you care what car show snobs think? If you're going to "fool" a car show snob with your stroker L24, is there any other way you could trick them? Maybe sanding off the L24 and block number stamp and restamping it L28 and N42? I've never seen it done, but it just occured to me that it could be. As to how linear displacement vs hp is, look again at Rebello's website. 2.7 makes 270 hp. 3.0 makes 300 hp. 3.2 makes 320 hp. Seems pretty damn linear to me...

Sway bars don't twist nicely in the center. They do all sorts of weird contortions when bent. They also deflect the mount bushings. A simple solution seems to be removing the damper.

Info on using a shortnose diff in here:http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 My personal opinion, it's not worth it. When longnose R200's become really hard to find, then maybe it will be. Right now, the hassle with the CVs and the front diff mount make it not worth the effort. The Subaru diff you have there looks like an R160. That would be a good choice for an autoxer. They can handle a decent amount of power too, and dimensionally they work with the R180 mounts and mustache bar.

Alumiseal works great for a pinhole in a radiator. When I was in high school I had a friend with a diesel rabbit (and no money) who kept that thing running for months with a pretty serious radiator leak by continually adding Alumiseal. John is absolutely right though, you have another problem, probably a blown head gasket, and alumiseal does nothing to fix that problem. Water in the oil means you need a real fix ASAP. I would suggest you don't drive it at all until you fix that problem.

Yes, I am running a self adjusting slave with the external spring and the pin from the manual adjust slave with a 280Z/240SX ACT pressure plate. What matters is the installed height of the flywheel/clutch/pp and the corresponding throwout bearing and collar. The flywheel and clutch disk don't change thickness from model to model, neither does the t/o bearing. So in short, the pp must match the collar.

This is correct.

Can't you just push on the piston and see if it comes back?

Since this is a big get together of Z enthusiasts and not a track day or HPDE, you can expect a chicane or slalom on the fastest parts of the track to slow people down.

Alright, I think I'm wrong on this one. A light spring inside would keep some tension on the pin and allow the pin to follow the throwout fork as the clutch wears. I was thinking a retracting spring. That wouldn't work at all. Sorry for the hassle. Thanks for teaching me something new Dave and Bo.

You would want the cam advanced for low end. Retarding the cam gives high end power. Opposite of spark timing.

Go pull one apart and post a picture of the spring. I double dog dare you!

Right. It looks like the ones with the holes are NLA. Easy enough to drill a hole like Mat did: From this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20751

This is not correct. There is no spring in the non-adjustable slave. If you have an adjustable slave and cannot buy a replacement, the solution is to take the adjustable pin out of your old slave and replace the non adjustable pin on the new slave. The only difference between the slaves is the pin.

Sorry for the threadjack zedyone... I don't know about Carl, but I don't know anyone making the bracket. It should be SUPER easy to make, and would make an excellent first time fabrication project. The tools required for the fabrication could be as simple as a hacksaw, vise, hammer, and drill. Buy a piece of 1/8" x 2 strap from the hardware store. Buy a rubber foot for a table while you're there. Cut the strap to the length required with the hacksaw. If you can't figure out how to measure it, mock it up with a piece of cardboard. Drill holes in metal for attachments to the diff mount and for the stud on the rubber foot. Put metal in vise and bend with hammer. Paint. Bolt foot to metal. Put new part in place and mark hole locations on the diff mount. Drill holes and mount. That's it. The only part that might be tricky would be bolting the new part to the diff mount. I can't remember if the rubber on the inside of the mount hangs down low enough to prevent a nut and bolt from easily being installed. If that were the case, I'd run my new part down to the nearest muffler shop and have them weld it on. If you needed to get it off later, just have the welds ground off. Or, if you have a tap and die set, drill the holes and tap them so the bolts can screw directly into the stock mount. I think this thing will hold a lot more than 225 hp too. It would have to be a LOT of hp to tear the strap.

When was the last time you checked your diff crossmember for cracks? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125046

Look at the link between the rear control arms, right where the fill plug is. If the link is straight, then it is in the forward position. If the link is curved back then it is in the rearward position. I think there was a recall so even if your car was in the forward position it may already have been switched. Did you have a chance to check that backlash? Just curious...

Why count them when the numbers are stamped right on the ring gear? It would say 37:11 or 39:11.

Yes. That would be quite a few...

I misunderstood you earlier. I thought you had said that the 82K was pounds, not dollars. That would be close to $150,000. You're right. I forgot about your socialist country's punitive taxation. That would have to be factored in. At least you have "free" health care though, eh? Given the rule book I don't think it would be that hard to come up with something that passed inspection. Didn't see that listed in the ad... I never claimed to be criticizing from a European point of view. I said that the value given to the car is insanely high to me. I am an American, so that is my frame of reference. In the US, that should be a $15 to $20K car. That was my point.

The 65 or 70K pounds is what I think it is overvalued by. To put it in perspective, I think I could send a shell to Beta Motorsports and have John Coffey do the stitch welding and build a custom cage and suspension and add in some proper race carbon fiber body panels, send the engine to Rebello, send the trans and diff to Unitrax, find a body shop to paint it, etc, and ship that finished car that is the equivalent of the rally car in question to the UK for 10's of thousands of dollars less than what they're asking for that car. Maybe that should be somebody's pension scheme... You don't want to talk about the difference between our countries and that's fine, but my point was that from this country that Z looks insanely overpriced. If that point is lost on you, then I guess that's the end of the argument.

This is where you're losing me Alan. Maybe in Britain buyers are comfortable with paying somebody else to take a rolling shell to a shop and write the check to have the work done. Here in the US it doesn't work that way. In my experience it is NEVER going to be a good return on investment to take a rolling shell of a common automobile (a 240Z, even a RHD, is not an exotic in my opinion) to a shop that does really good work, have them build the car into a race car. It is a good investment if you want to get your 65 or 70K pounds out of it RACING the car for years, but absolute folly to expect that you can pay for all of this work then turn around and sell it for what you paid. If I were to think about selling my own race car which is stitch welded (evidently more completely than the one in the ad), has a 10 point roll cage, monotube custom valved Bilsteins, many custom fabbed suspension components, Lexan windows, Mikunis, etc when it finally gets done I'd probably put a price of $20K on it, and I think I'd be LUCKY to find someone who would pay that. The basic materials (DOM tube, welding supplies, struts, engine work, LSD, etc) have run me more than the asking price of the car would be. To expect that I could then be reimbursed for my time, well, just doesn't sound realistic to me. Which is why I intend to drive that F'er into the ground...

The strap will be too far forward if you move the diff back. My solution was to move the strap mounting bracket back one hole. In order to do this you need to grind a little lip off of both sides of the trans tunnel, and what was left was enough to prevent the strap from rotating on my car. I had the front hole in the strap bracket lined up with the rear hole on the chassis and ran my car like that for years, through autoxes and track days, never had a problem. You could also make a new bracket that spanned the front hole, middle, and the rear hole if you wanted everything tied together. WW2Winger and I were discussing that possibility via PM. I think the best course of action though would be to get rid of the strap entirely. One easily fabricated solution is to do a clamshell type of diff mount as shown here: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2501