jmortensen

Looking good!!!

Agree with everyone above. I got mid 20's on the highway with triple 44s. Proper jetting can get you fairly decent mileage at cruise. If you're looking for around town mileage forget it.

My understanding is this: The Subaru CV shafts have a different spline count than the stub shafts that come in a Datsun. So the only real way to use this diff in a Datsun would be to use the Subaru CV shafts. The issue there is length (guessing, but I'd think that they're too long) and they don't bolt up to the companion flange at the wheel. So you could do it, but might require a custom machined adapter for the wheel end and possibly a custom length shaft for the center. Big bucks... There should be a lot more Subaru diffs coming on the market as the cars start to get older, so I would hope that at some point somebody like Arizona Z Car or Modern Motorsports would come up with a kit to adapt these in.

You really don't want to go to a 2mm headgasket. It renders the quench area of the head essentially useless. I remember when you were having trouble with the headgasket, but I don't recall the specifics. I think you were using a metal gasket that was completely dry. Did you ever try the copper spray on the gasket? I think it's pretty mandatory on that gasket to get it to seal.

Right... I was in a bit of a rush when I read the first post. Sorry.

Summit sells the correct bar for a Z. They might have sent him the wrong one though.

The fact that you can drive the car without noticing the issue doesn't mean the issue doesn't exist. Parts deflect, bushings deflect, and these will mask the issue. I autoxed my Z with my rear swaybar bound up horribly for years. I only figured it out when I went to upgrade it to adjustable end links and manually moved it through its travel. The only way to know for sure is to take the spring off the driver's side rear and manually lift the control arm through it's travel and feel for bind.

If these are stripped because you didn't cut the peened area of the nut off before removing it, then you can probably get away with just cleaning up what is left with a thread file and putting a new nut on. The peened area will necessarily be AFTER the threads that actually secure the nut, so the harm done is more cosmetic than anything. Be prepared to spend a couple hours with your new best friend Mr. Thread File though...

I think that's to me... but the name is Jon. Anyway that's a sluggish combo. While it would probably get you some good mileage numbers, it's too tall a rear gear for good acceleration. 3.90 is the stock ZX rear gear ratio, 4.11 is good. I ran 3.70 for a long time and that was OK, but not great. I could really feel that it was too tall when autoxing. I wouldn't go any taller than 3.70. It really shouldn't be hard to find a diff with the right ratio.

Along with the trans, it's a good idea to upgrade the diff. The ZX trans is a close ratio unit and has a higher gear ratio spread than the Z unit. The Z diff is a high ratio, which works with the low ratio 4 speed transmission, but put it together with the high ratio 5 speed, and you'll be doing 2000 rpm at 70 mph, you'll have no torque for passing, and you'll have to downshift on the slightest hill. Couple that ZX trans with the ZX diff which should be a 3.90, or go find a 4.11, and then you'll have quicker acceleration than with the 240's 3.36 diff and you'll still be OK on the freeway. This might help: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/

The stock PCV system routes the crank to the intake, which basically creates a vacuum in the crankcase. Having this vacuum in the crankcase actually increases the rings' ability to seal against the cylinder walls and is a good thing, although running the oily air through the intake is not so good. In order to get vacuum to the crank, I've seen guys make complicated manifolds to run the PCV to the triple manifold (Dan Baldwin and BJ Hines have done this, I'm sure many others have too). Another option is to run a vacuum pump directly to the crankcase, and this can also be hooked to the brake booster if you have low vacuum. Personally I never felt like the booster lost all that much when I went to triples, despite my decent sized cam. My solution to this lack of vacuum to the PCV is going to be one of these: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_21252_-1 This is a simple one way valve that you install into the exhaust and hook to the PCV via a hose (on the V8 it routes to the valve covers). It routes the crankcase gasses to the exhaust pipe and uses the Bernoulli principle to suck the crankcase pressure out straight into the exhaust.

Congrats to both of you... again. Good work! 14th national championship. Wow.

You might want to do some research on your opinion. While you are entitled to be wrong, the new Chevy V8's (LS) and older Ford V8's (302) are lighter than the L6. Lot's of guys over at Hybrid Z running more weight on the rear of the car than the front due to the heavier trans and diff required to handle their new "lazy" engine's power. After the swap is complete they usually do end up gaining weight overall, but it almost all gets added on to the rear of the car and not the front assuming a more modern engine setback like the JTR, MSA, or John's Cars setups. But that's all a bit of a thread jack, so we should keep it confined to the fact that triples make more power than duals. Don't believe me? Call Rebello, take a look at what Nissan ran on the CP cars back in the day, see what GT3 Z engines use, FP cars, etc.

Making power is one thing. Getting a record at a hillclimb is another. Triples make more hp than dual SU's, and I think you'd be hard pressed to prove me wrong on that one. The 4 barrel manifold is junk sold to rednecks who grew up with Chevys and are too lazy to figure out how to tune SU's. That's my take on it anyway.

I know you can use the Clutch LSD, but I'm not so sure about the viscous LSD. You might check with a 510 forum before you buy this thing. The 3.54 is a tall rear gear for use in conjunction with the ZX 5 speed. It will be relatively low in the rpm range at speed, so when you go up hills or when you're passing you'll have to downshift to 4th more often. A 3.90 is what came stock with the ZX 5 speed. A 4.11 would be nice.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106945

It could be the glass is loose in the frame. When the window is loose the glass can wobble back and forth and slap against the inside of the door. Especially loud when you close the door. If you pull the window there are maybe 8 or 10 bolts that go through the bottom of the glass and attach it to the frame. You can't tighten them too much for obvious reasons, so loctite them and then carefully tighten them as much as you feel you can without cracking the window glass. I did this and had several Z owners comment that my doors closed like a "Swiss bank vault". Of course they loosened up after a couple years because I wasn't smart enough to think of loctite at the time.

Springs also sag over time. There is ample justification to replace them even if they're not rusty.

KAAZ makes 2 LSDs for the 240SX. One is the replacement for the VLSD which has a larger shaft with more splines. The other is to replace the OPEN diff, and that one should use the Z31T or S130T CV shafts with no problems so far as I'm aware.

Well I guess I stand corrected in this case, sorry for passing along incorrect info.

Stage 2 is the second stage of wussiness, still a very small cam. Yeah, there are coil bind and lash pad and valve stem seal issues to deal with, but it's worth it in my opinion.

This is wrong. I logically don't get how adding two stiff springs to the same suspension gets you a soft spring. The real solution is to add the rates together and divide by the number of springs. As stated by John Coffey in the Hybrid Z thread on this subject:

For the record, a couple other ideas are to use a Dremel to cut a very thin strip out of the inside of the bushing from front to back. This releases the press fit and you can pull it out with a pair of pliers. Another method is to use a cheapo slide hammer with the correct "scissor" type attachment (not sure of the proper name) but you put it inside the bushing and tighten it up and it spreads out until you can slide hammer the bushing out. I've hydraulicked out one bushing. That sucked, and I had borrowed a steel input shaft that was cut off just for that purpose. Never again...

I guess if its an ITS car you can't put in a ZX 5 speed and get rid of that big 2-3 shift gap. Seemed like a lot of the time you were stuck right in that area. Looked like fun though!

You could modify the one you have so that you never need to deal with it again. The stock system with the strap and the stock diff mount SUCKS. There is a very easy to do fix with a welder and a long bolt (fuel hose optional) that will prevent you from having problems ever again. Details at the end of the original post in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798