jmortensen

The Mikuni ones should work too I'm pretty sure. www.wolfcreekracing.com has them.

That's very similar to what I did, except I made the masts taller by buying a 3rd engine stand and cutting it up and adding I think a foot more height to the rotisserie. This allows the Z to spin all the way around, although there isn't much clearance on the rear fenders. If I had to do it again, I'd add just a bit more so that I could bolt on my flares and spin it without knocking them off.

The rear bumper mounts are strong enough, as are the fronts. They tie right into the rear frame rail which spans the width of the car in back.

This one really came back from the dead. Apparently JimmyZ is using the search function...

If it starts, the gas should get rid of the grease pretty quickly. As you said, gasoline makes a pretty good solvent.

It's the one from Top End performance, I think... www.racetep.com

I like the Nismo intake, then Cannon, then Mikuni. I know others have different opinions.

It would have to be ported. I did that on mine. I would suggest you buy the 45mm Cannon manifold instead. Took quite a bit of time and effort... For my money I'd put 44's or 45's on an L24 also. Seen an L16 run 40 Webers, then 40 Mikunis, then 44s. Could have saved a lot of time and hassle by starting with the 44s...

For triple Webers I'd suggest you don't run the vacuum advance. I'd also set the total advance to the mid 30s, as that seems to be where max power is found, usually between 35-38 degrees.

Still working on it, but here's what I've done. It's pretty much all DIY low buck stuff, but I think the end results are going to be worth the effort: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117235

Why not just cut the Euro springs Ramses? Nothing wrong with cutting springs, so long as you don't use heat (cutting torch) to do it. With a cutoff wheel you can cut 1/2 coil off at a time until the ride height is where you want it. That way you get the stiffer springs AND the desired ride height. My impression is that most stock springs, especially in the rear, are pretty much sagged out. Plus they were much too soft to begin with, at least in my opinion.

You have 220V single phase. 3 phase is different. Not sure what is required to switch from one to the other. I know I worked in an industrial building and they switched an outlet from single to 3 phase for an electric forklift charger. I'm not sure how hard that is to do or what it normally costs. A 220V welder has the advantage that it can weld thicker metal (1/4" and over) in one pass vs a 110V welder. There really shouldn't be any reason to use any metal thicker than about 1/8" on a Z, and most of what people do with their welders is body work, which is really thin sheet on a Z. A 110V welder will do that fine, but won't be able to weld the trailer to tow the Z somewhere (at least not in one pass). You should be able to turn the 220V welder down to do the body work, at least that's the case with the Miller and Lincoln 220V welders. I think the main obstacle to turning it down would be click type adjusters. Some cheaper welders have 5 voltage and 5 wirespeed settings, where a nicer one has potentiometers where you can really fine tune it. I'd try and find out more about the welders and see if you can find people who have used the particular brand you're looking at and how it works on thin sheet. I'd suggest that you spend as much as you can on a welder, because a good one will make you look more talented than you are, and a bad one makes you look really really really really bad at welding. Gas shielding, in my opinion, is a must.

Thanks.

What is a tuner lug?

I drilled out my knuckles and had a BIG problem with the first drill bit I used. I tried to drill through with a dry bit and it got dull FAST. Then I tried to sharpen the bit and that was a complete failure. The second time around I used bacon grease as cutting fluid and I drilled two of them with a Home Depot bit in about 5 minutes flat. The bit is still around and still sharp.

No. The only thing you'll get out of a turbo oil pan is a return line bung that needs to be plugged. There would be an advantage to something like this: http://www.arizonazcar.com/pan.html

You should be able to look at the diff and realize that it is a straight axle and isn't going to work in your Z. The 4wd's had the R180 in the front end. There is a way that you can tell the gear ratio by reading the VIN number. I'm sure if you searched you could find that info.

That doesn't change the fact that a car will make more power on the lowest octane that it can run at optimal timing. Dan Baldwin even posted his dyno sheets here where he lost power on race gas, and then lost more power when he tried to add timing to get the power back. It is true that a newer car with 11:1 compression or even better a turbo and a much more advanced FI system with knock sensor and all that will make more power on higher octane, but that is because the computer will adjust to take full advantage of the extra detonation resistance. On a mid 70's L28 with 8.5:1 compression 87 octane will make more power than 92, and even if you installed some high $$$ FI system, it isn't going to be able to produce more power with the higher octane, because in a stock Z there is no need for the higher octane. That's the valve SEATS that you're referring to. You are correct that it doesn't matter what octane you have, the lead lubicates and cushions the valve seats and not having lead is what makes the difference. I think the hardened seats were installed in 76 and later cars. I could be wrong there, but that's when they started getting catalytic converters in CA so they COULDN'T run leaded. If yours is later you have nothing to worry about. If it's earlier then when your engine needs a valve job you just need to have the machine shop install the hardened seats. No biggee.

Check the last couple posts on this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106354&page=11 If they're in decent shape I'd try them out first.

Definitely SOUNDS like a bent valve. Maybe you got the cam timing wrong or something? If the seat isn't hanging on the valve then I doubt it's the fault of the seat. Hammering on the valve is just going to screw up the valve guide, so don't do that anymore. You're going to have to pull that valve spring anyway, so pull it off and set the valve on a table and roll it. I bet it wobbles like crazy because it's bent.

This is the right answer. Cars make the most power on the lowest octane gas that they can run optimal timing on. A stock L28 running 8.3:1 should be running 87 octane.

Is it possible that the cam just has that valve open at the angle it happens to be at right now? Valve seats don't normally fall out of the head, and I can't ever say I've heard of that happening to an L series engine. I have seen a valve seat fall out once when it happened to me, and it was a result of me buying the cheapest remanned head I could find. When I took it back they wanted to stake the seat back in... sheesh. Talk about crappy workmanship. Needless to say I got a new head.

Good point. I wasn't thinking about swapping dished for flat tops.

.040 over changes compression from 8.29 to 8.46 according to the lengine.exe program. I'm pretty sure the cam she has is the Stage III, which is the hottest cam that Schneider recommends for EFI as far as I know, even though in reality it is still a really small cam. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM01/10-2003 My feeling is that the head shaving is an unknown. Could be shaved .040, could be shaved .120, we really don't know, and that will change the compression ratio quite a bit, but it's still hard to imagine it being over 11:1. It's somewhat obvious to me that someone monkeyed with the FI to try to get it to run right since it is getting 10 mpg. The fixes that I see are either return to a stock head and stock FI, or figure out what was F'ed up on the FI to make it run so bad and fix that. I still see no way that 109 octane gas could "fix" any of this.

Tony if you look at that webpage with the description of the car, it says 60mm throttle body is one of the mods. It's still running stock injection with a larger cam. My guess is that someone put a RRFPR on the thing and has it cranked up way too high...