jmortensen

You're running ITS and you were looking at a cam and now considering triple SU's? In the middle of a body restoration???

I've seen the Centerforce Dual Friction do major damage to the flywheel in a CA18DET, and the chatter was horrible. My preference, especially for a street car, is a stiff pressure plate and a more stockish disk. I'm currently using the ACT pressure plate with a Paraut (Factory Nissan) clutch disk. This works well with my ~240 whp. For a stock Z a stock pressure plate works fine. I didn't have any problems with the stock unit until I started pushing ~200 whp.

They run Infineon and several other road courses. Still couldn't give a crap... ::

How about converting to a cable? Easy to do, and eliminates all the linkage from the pedal to the carbs.

Oops, should be shims on the sides of the CARRIER, not pinion.

Have you searched "diff clunk"? There are lots of reasons that you might get a clunk when you go from off throttle to on throttle, and I can't remember anyone ever finding out that the problem was backlash. Backlash is set by shims on the sides of the pinion, not by the pinion shims or nut torque. Usually that clunking noise is the diff mount/strap, the control arm bushings, a bad u-joint, or worn splines on the stub axles. BTW I think I figured out why mine was such a bitch. I have a 70 and I moved the diff back and swapped it for an R200 but didn't move the strap back (figured that one out years later). I actually had to jack the front of the diff up to stretch the strap over the front of the diff until I could get the front diff crossmember bolts in. So yeah, the strap was in the way, and yeah, I was being a dumbass.

They plug into the side of the MSD unit and they say the limit right on them. Shouldn't be hard to find. Any MSD supplier will have different pills. You can purchase them in 1000 rpm ranges by 200 rpm increments, so you might get a pack that has 6200, 6400, 6600, 6800, and 7000.

Good info from Chino. To answer the other part of your question it does two functions. One is "capacitive discharge". This means instead of charging the coil with 12V to get the spark, the MSD uses a capacitor to bump that up to a higher number, I think its around 450V. It doesn't charge the coil for as long, but running more voltage to the coil means a higher voltage spark. Under 3000 rpms it will also produce 3 sparks per power stroke. Over 3000 it reverts to one. This is especially an especially good feature for old carbureted cars and will make them run smoother at lower rpms. The MSD also replaces the module in an electronic ignition system. You can wire it up to run in conjunction with the stock module, but then the MSD is only doing its capacitive discharge thing, and not doing the module thing. I had my own setup running like this for a long time, then I found out it could be done the other way. It just makes sense to me that if the MSD can do it, it should, as that eliminates one more point of failure from the system. That picture you have is not the 6420, by the way. http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_6_6420.htm You'll find MSD's have something of a reputation for failure. I've run mine for a long time and never had a problem, but you'll find both sides of that story online. A friend of mine dynoed his 510 with Mikunis back to back with stock EI and the MSD and gained 9 or 10 hp with the MSD in a car that was putting down ~100 whp. I feel it's a good bargain.

Hmm... seems to me like the strap was in the way when I tried it the way you guys are describing. Maybe that has to do with poly mustache bar bushings or something. Then again it could be that I was doing it the hard(er) way for no good reason. Try it on a 510 or a ZX and I think you'll agree it's a bit more of a chore on the Z though.

You have to drop the front and rear control arm brackets (the front bracket also has the front diff mount built in), but the arms themselves can stay on the car. The stock setup is really really badly designed for working on the diff. 510s and 280ZXs are MUCH easier. Sorry, but there is no magic trick. It's just a PITA.

It wouldn't be the first time I've heard of the correct kit being sent with the wrong spacer under the strut insert.

The 260 2+2 has the same length struts as a 280. That's the spacer you need. There are only 2 of them, so if you have the short one ask for the long one. It's that simple.

I think they SHOULD HAVE had the long spacers. You can measure the spacer to find out for sure. Just because you got the right part number doesn't mean you got the right part, unfortunately.

The rear struts for a 240Z or early 260Z should come with a 2" spacer on them. Rears for the late 260 and 280Z should have a 3" spacer on them. Sounds like you have the wrong spacer. Just measure it and call Tokico and they should be able to send out the correct length.

It's all personal preference sleepyzzz, and you should take any one person's opinion with a grain of salt. I'd probably get carsick in bpilati's car because to me it would ride like a Barkolounger. I ran 200/250 springs on the street with a combo of poly and rod ends (all metal, no bushings at all, very stiff) and camber plates for years in my daily driver. I never had a complaint from a passenger, even my 70+ year old father, and it never bothered me a bit.

Don't lower it. Lowered + soft springs = riding on the bumpstops. Riding on the bumpstops is going to be much less comfortable than stiff springs. The Eibach springs you already have are among the more comfortable lowering springs as they are progressive. Just my $.02

Yup. I've replaced or repaired my brass radiator 3 or 4 times. My understanding is that the frame rails flex and the core support isn't stiff enough to hold everything in line. As the core support flexes this slowly pulls the radiator apart. The harder you corner, the more likely this is to occur. The aluminum radiators are more prone to breaking under the stress than brass ones from what I've gathered. But like John says all it takes is some very simple isolation of the radiator from the core support and that should solve any issues. This is one of the things on my to do list...

You don't need to remove ANY bushings to get springs and strut inserts replaced. That said, if you're doing the springs and struts it's probably because you want the car to handle better, so you can opt to do the bushings at the same time if you're not the kind of guy who likes to keep tearing the suspension apart over and over. U-joints have nothing to do with the rest of this project, so while its a good idea to check them for wear and replace when necessary, if it isn't necessary then you're wasting money IMO. I was a bit confused by your comment about larger tires. A lot of guys want to get the car lower than 1.5 inches so that the gap is minimized in the fenderwells. That's really not a good idea because what you end up with is a car that drives around on the bumpstops, unless you go with coilovers and sectioned struts. If you don't want to lower the car then I'd suggest something other than the Tokico springs. Maybe the Arizona Z Car springs with Tokico inserts or something like that. As Nissanman says, the tires shouldn't rub through the whole range of the suspension motion. If they do then you likely have the wrong offset wheels, or just tires that are too large for the wheels.

OOPS!!! I totally forgot about the 280ZXT CV axles. I think that info is on the first link to Hybrid Z, but for those who would rather read it here there are actually two ways to install those. 1. Buy the companion flange adapter from www.modernmotorsports.com. 2. You can use the 280ZXT companion flange with the 240Z (but not 280Z) stub axles. More info there on www.alteredz.com. Sorry for the error.

Thanks for the compliment. I just got fed up of answering the same question over and over and over and over. The stub axles will stay, so what you are doing is connecting the diff to the stock stub axles. You can do this two ways: 1. Use the output stub shafts from a 280Z. These plug into the sides of the diff and then you can use any just about any halfshafts out of a 240Z, 260Z, or 280Z. 2. Use the CVs from the 300ZXT (not the NA CV shafts, only the turbo) along with an adapter from Modern Motorsports. This adapter replaces the companion flange on the stub axle -- the inboard side only. You can send yours to Ross and he'll weld on the adapter, or you can buy his new billet adapters. As to gear ratio, this page should help you. Plug in all the pertinent info and then you can figure out what your rpms will be at cruising speed on the freeway. http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ There really isn't a "right" answer to gearing, but my personal preference is for a closer ratio transmission like the ZX trans along with a lower rear gear like 3.90s or 4.11s. This works well with NA cars and especially those with larger than stock cams or induction. I ran mine for years with a ZX trans and a 3.70 rear gear, it was OK, but it would have been better with the lower gears, and I never did utilize the rpm limited top speed of 178mph with my 3.70s...

Dave, if you're rebuilding the LSD you might want to take a look at these threads: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=92629 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117818 If you're rebuilding the whole diff I'd say good luck. I think the outer pinion bearing is NLA and it is a Nissan specific bearing I'm pretty sure. I'd transplant the LSD into another diff. Here's a thread on that procedure: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119990

Yep, as Eric says look for the ring and pinion gear count, divide it out and that tells the gear ratio. I'm don't have any part numbers committed to memory, so that doesn't help me. It is an R200, and it is definitely an LSD. You can tell if it is the more or less aggressive version by looking at the ramps and the cross pin shaft (which is point more or less right at the camera in the photo). If it looks like this it is the less aggressive diff with the big spacer: http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/90952way1.jpg This is the better one with more clutches and the more aggressive ramps: http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/R200_NISMO_ramps1.JPG

I wrote up a pretty detailed post about this over at your favorite place if you can stomach it: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 There are R180 LSD's available from Nissan, a 2 pinion (crappy) and a 4 pinion (much better) from Nissan. There are also aftermarket LSDs available from KAAZ, Cusco, OBX, Quaife and others I'm sure. The only R diffs that came in Nissan's with LSD's were the 87-89 300ZXTs and some later shortnose R200's from Z32s and 240SXs so far as I know.

You only need one slot, then you can use a hammer and punch to drive out the sleeve until you can grab it with a pair of pliers. I used a hacksaw (have to take the blade off then put it through the end of the control arm and reinstall. Cut TOWARDS the control arm so that if you go a little farther than necessary you aren't taking off the thin metal at the end of the arm and the tough part is keeping the blade level so that you don't cut further than you need to.

Just because something isn't perfect doesn't mean it won't work. Yes there is a firing order issue. But Jags, Austin Healeys and I think Triumphs all ran triple SU's on a 6 cylinder from the factory. I for one would be interested in seeing a back to back comparison of dual to triple SUs to Mikunis or Webers. Especially if you were using Cary's old engine. That would really be applicable to my own situation. I expect that the Mikunis would come out on top, but I would be happily surprised if they didn't.