jmortensen

Then your springs are switched too.

I would go with Suspension Techniques bars, and not the MSA bars. The MSA unit requires you to drill holes in the floor and at least on my car it was binding against the floor and the frame pretty badly. The cheapest place to get the Suspension Techniques bars is from Summit racing, I want to say they were under $300 for both bars.

Yep, my car was 49/51 roughly when I scaled it, and none of the Zs is front heavy by design. Bottom line for me on this one is that it certainly LOOKS like the springs are switched. I can't think of any reason not to switch them the other way, or any other way to fix the problem... Here's a way to save yourself some time. Put the car on jackstands with all the wheels up in the air. Remove tires, disconnect the sway bar(s), the rubber brake lines, and the halfshafts in the rear. Then the top 3 nuts on the strut tower. With all of this removed the struts should swing down far enough to pull the spring out of the fenderwell front and rear. Now just pull the center nut that holds the strut top on, and you can pull the springs and swap front to rear. Reassemble, bleed brakes, and you're done. Should literally take 2 maybe 3 hours to do the whole job, especially since you've just been in there and none of the bolts is rusted on or anything like that.

You're ASSuming that the springs are the same length. If the springs were the same length, then yes, the one with less coils would be stiffer, and one would expect that the stiffer spring would go in the rear. But we don't know that to be true. Regardless, looks like the springs are switched front to rear to me.

Looks to me like the springs are backwards. Sorry. I don't know about 9 turns vs 8 turns, but since the struts have the same amount of travel and the cars tend to ride a little high in the nose as they come stock, it seems that you want the shorter spring in the front. Your friend is wrong about the struts. As long as they hold their gas charge (should be damn near forever) they will add a little bit of ride height to the car. When you first set a car down off of a lift or a jack the control arms can't move because the tires are effectively pinched under the car. Rolling the car back and forth just a couple feet will settle the suspension and allow the control arms to move back to their normal position. If you drove it around, you've already gotten all of the settling that you're going to get.

Would be funnier if it actually happened (either of them): http://www.snopes.com/military/reinwald.htm http://www.snopes.com/politics/war/recoil.asp

Swap the adjustable pin from your original slave onto the new one, reuse the adjustable fork in the new transmission. Or use the non-adjustable fork in the new transmission with the non adjustable pin on the new slave. Either way works, I prefer to have the adjustability. Whats the story on the racing tranny? Is it an old Datsun Comp? Probably worth some coin...

240s did not come with a rear sway bar, at least in the US. Later ones did have the brackets, I think 73 and later. Suspension Techniques makes a decent rear sway bar for a 240.

Well if all else fails I have two sets of 240Z hubs that I put up on ebay and never sold just hanging around, one with stock studs and a bend in the back, but not enough to grind or see when its installed, and another set with long studs. PM me if you're interested. Say $25 for either set...

He said the backside of the hub is bent. I've seen that before from poor attempts to separate the rotor from the hub. If that is the problem, then grinding the bent part away.

Take a Sharpie or a permanent marker and put some ink on the bent part where you think the hub is rubbing. Then put it on and turn it a couple times. If it is scraping there it will rub the ink off. If that is the problem, yes, you can grind it away. The only issue is that you don't want to get any metal in your bearings, so be careful about that...

Why not remove the calcium and rust in the block? I've read Jet Dry works to remove this stuff, haven't tried it myself. Supposedly you drain the coolant completely, run the system with water only, and add a bottle of jet dry. Drive for a couple days and all that crap is gone, flushes out the radiator too, so if your older radiator is starting to get clogged with that white crusty stuff, apparently this fixes that issue completely. Drain again and fill 50/50. I could also see doing the same thing with CLR (Calcium/Lime/Rust) remover they show on TV. I use dino oil, Chevron Delo 400 now, when I first rebuilt the engine I used Valvoline 10W-40, and pulled my engine apart with ~40K on the clock due to losing the damper and screwing up the front of the crankshaft. It also had NO sludge or buildup whatsoever. I think the detergents that are now in oils make sludge a think of the past, assuming regular oil changes. ALL of the lubrication failures that I've seen on L's had to do with starvation. Never seen one that just spontaneously lost a main bearing while driving down the street at 2500 rpm or anything similar that could be attributed to the dino oil itself. I have a junkyard dog of a motor, and it doesn't have a lot of dollars in it, so until I see a failure caused by cheap oil I won't consider paying 5x as much for synthetic.

Not sure what happened but it appears that I somehow deleted one of the pictures. Let me try again.

Hey that's pretty cool! Thanks for the mention veritech. Here's some pics of the aforementioned sway bars (now I can post these without feeling like a show-off):

Do it yourself is important, but modifications that make a difference in the way the car handles is what floats my boat. I guess I have sympathy for those that can't do it themselves, since for a LOOOOOONNNNNNNNNNNGGGGG time I had things that I really wanted to make but didn't have the time or tools or materials to make them. Plus I would not find it terribly impressive if someone made their own blingy chrome hood ornament. I'd rather see a really nice suspension modification that does something, even if its not on display for everyone to see all the time, and if you made it yourself, all the better.

www.zfiberglass.com has box flares. $1300 for the set.

I'm 99.99999% that you can run the later trans with the early driveshaft if the diff isn't moved back. When you move the diff back then you need the longer driveshaft.

Slow at work today... just did a 50.2. I've probably made it all the way through 10 times now though. 44.4...

Sounds familiar... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115404

I do believe this is EXACTLY what I've been looking for. I was even worried about the front flare width. Thanks Steve!!!

Just post the link Mike, nobody cares if you cross forums: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=692261#post692261

I believe MSA no longer sells any flares other than the ZGs, and maybe not even those. The metal flares are a modified VW Beetle flare, and they don't add much clearance for wider tires. I think the ZGs actually add more room for tires than the metal ones. I really liked the MSA "street flares" and would like to figure out where those molds went...

So what's the trouble? You can purchase one through the group buy on Hybrid Z or you can buy one from Quaife, or Nissan. Could also probably get a KAAZ or a Cusco.

I'm still a bit confused texasz. It sounds like you just want to know how the different LSD's function. It's complicated and I don't want to write it all out, but I found some links for you. This site explains how the Nissan/Power Brute diff works: http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd3.asp Actually if you want more info that start at the beginning of the LSD section and read all the way through. That site has the best breakdown of the Nissan clutch LSD that I've ever seen. I couldn't find a good explanation online of how the Quaife works. I did remember an old thread from Hybrid Z where I argued with some other people about how it works and which was better, etc. It gets into the Torsen more than the Quaife, but they are very similar in the way they generate friction to limit the slip. It's a long thread and some of the picture links are dead, but here it is if you dare: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93879 Bottom line for me is that I think the clutch type is better, and 1/3 the price. Can't beat that! I'm aware that I am in the minority on that opinion, but my opinion comes from seeing racers install the Quaife, have wheelspin or break axles or both, and then subsequently remove the Quaife in favor of a clutch type LSD. Plenty of people disagree with me on that one though, I am definitely in the minority with my opinion. If you're putting one or the other in a street car, you'll probably never notice the difference between the two, and either will be a HUGE improvement over the open stock diff. The first time you go around a corner and stomp on the gas you'll know you did the right thing.

I got it figured out. You need to be able to clip in the side stubs into the LSD. So you get some modified side stubs from www.betamotorsports.com. Then you get the later Power Brute LSD, and now you have an LSD that fits your ring gear and the side stubs that clip into it.