jmortensen

Are you talking shotgun sounding backfire, or are you talking about the burbling noise on decel? Burbling noise is totally normal especially with a big exhaust system on a performance tuned engine. Shotgun sounding backfire is usually a result of an exhaust leak that ignites unburnt gas in the exhaust.

No, it's a 3/16" brake line with a 10 x 1 mm nut. The metric brake tube size is damn near identical, its something like 4.7mm IIRC. The 3/16" fitting will work on your stock brake lines just fine. FWIW I've never had trouble getting a hold of them, and if you can't buy them separately for some reason you can always just buy a 6" length of brake line that is pre-flared and has 2 of them on it already then you don't have to special order anything. I've never been to an autoparts store that didn't have a pre-made line with them already on it in CA or WA, although there was a guy in TX complaining that he had to order the fittings recently on hybridz.

Mikunis suffer from a hesitation that is very tough to completely eliminate right at this spot in the rev range. The problem is you snap the throttle open and the acc pump sprays a big pee stream of fuel at the valve and there is no velocity in the intake tract to atomize the mix right there. The solution is to run a larger pilot so that the pump nozzle can be relatively small, but I still haven't been in a car with 44's that didn't have a slight hesitation there. I'm running a pretty big pilot in mine, high 60's I think, maybe a 67.5. Pump nozzle is a 50 I believe. I think when I got my carbs they had a 50 pilot in them. It was WAY too small. You say you have a BACKFIRE, not a hesitation. That I haven't dealt with before. Is it truly a backfire that you're dealing with?

Bent wheel, bent hub, bent control arm, bent strut housing. I think those are your most likely possibilities in that order. Could be a combination.

OK, that's a good enough description that I think I can handle it from there. Thanks.

My first Z was an auto and did 0-60 in about 8.5. Trans held up fine for several years. I used to manually shift it a lot on windy roads, never had any trouble with the transmission at all. I had planned to swap in a 5 speed but got rear ended and the car was totalled.

I'm just trying to figure out where you attach to the rocker. I just took my fenders off and had some rust on the passenger side so I've been looking right at this area. The rocker protrudes past the floors and looks kind of like a knife blade that sticks out ~2 inches. The outside part of it is shaped like a wedge, so not too easy to connect there either. It'd be REALLY easy to connect to the floor right next to the front part and tie in with an L shaped plate. Maybe that's the answer...

Rocker panel is the area under the door. It is a frame rail really that ties the front of the car to the back and supports the floor. Do you guys have any pics of your braces? I was thinking of doing the brace to the rocker along with a brace from the crossmember back to the TC bucket inside the engine compartment kind of turning the crossmember into a K member.

There is an adjustable rod and a non adjustable rod. They need to be used with the correct shift fork. If you don't have the fork with the hole in the end, then you need to use the non adjustable rod. If you get a new slave it will probably come with the non adjustable rod. Just pull it out and put your adjustable rod in, everything else will function just fine that way. I don't believe that there are different size slave cylinders BTW. Do a search on "diff mount". The stock design SUCKS and there are a couple of really easy alternatives that are much stronger and don't rely on the craptastic factory strap setup.

I've got a 2 sets of hubs if you end up needing to go that route. Just PM me if you need.

As to the revving to get the car started in traffic, I don't feel that's a problem at all on a Z. My Z has a cam and 44's and the AZC flywheel with an ACT clutch, and I can drive it in traffic about the same way that I drive my Toyota P/U. No additional revving or slipping the clutch required. I've driven other Z's with light flywheels and never had a problem with stalling them either. A friend of mine has a 510 with 44s and a Tilton flywheel with a Comp Roadster pressure plate, and his is damn near impossible to drive in traffic. I think the extra mass of the longer crank and the extra pistons is enough to maintain some driveability with the L6.

The flywheel makes a huge difference, especially if you heel/toe downshift. Stainless steel clutch line is nice but doesn't have the same effect as a stainless brake line. If you need to replace the clutch line anyway you might as well upgrade, but it isn't going to improve the way the clutch operates assuming the clutch line is in good condition.

Here's another one: 2.8, 44's, cam, 6-1 header, 2.5 exhaust with Super Turbo. Bought the mandrel bends and the muffler from JC Whitney, local muffler store for the 2.5" straight pipe, me and a friend welded it up in his driveway. I think the whole exhaust system has about $220 in it. I also have a new Ultraflo which I haven't put on yet. I expect it's gonna be nearly unbearable on the street with that sucker on... http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=1562&cat=509&page=1

If the coil isn't originally designed for a full 12V you'll burn it out faster. If you're not sure just get an aftermarket coil and you'll be good to go. I just jumped my ballast, no reason to remove it entirely.

Steve's flares are attached to the outside of the body. Usually they are installed on the inside of the body, which is going to make the flare 1/2" narrower then they are blended in, making them appear even narrower. The original pic really looks like the MSA flare to me.

Got nothing better to do...

That's not Larry Butler if that's what you're thinking Mat... Guys, if you're looking for parts, look what Mat picked up: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104473 The original Craigslist ad is gone, but he's got 70 something doors, 15 hatches, hoods, fenders, 6 complete L24 engines, 10 heads including E31, E88, P79, P90, exhaust manifolds, SU intake manifolds (N36), starters including a bunch o 280ZX gear reduction units, glass, air cleaner boxes, fuse boxes, and on and on and on. Mat literally took home somebody else's Datsun junkyard. There is SO MUCH MORE than what I just listed here. We filled the biggest truck Ryder had, along with a 8 x 10 trailer... TWICE. And we had to borrow the sellers trailer too the first day, it had to have been 8 x 15 or so. LOTS of parts.

Looks like it has a solid rear axle in it, and drag slicks are tall because the sidewall needs to flex to hook up. I think both of those things would lift the back end. Looks like the aero kit is more for show on this one.

A 12 ton HF press IS NOT BIG ENOUGH. Personal experience here. The 20 should do it (no personal experience here, but I think it should work). I called all the shops around this area, everyone knew about the spindle pins which surprised me, and nobody wanted to touch it, which didn't surprise me. BTW, in case you do decide to buy a 20 ton or larger press, I'll give you a $25 discount... http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=1467&sort=1&cat=21&page=1

Exposed threads is what you want. If the nut bottoms out without tightening against the strut the strut would be loose in the tube. What you don't want is the gland nut hanging on by 1 or 2 threads, which is the way the original picture looked to me.

Yep. Got one in my Z Mat, so you've actually used it before. The stock fan is pretty anemic. I got mine from a Mid 80's Integra, then I broke the squirrel cage part being a dumbass so I went back and got one from a 88 (?) Civic. Plugs right in, just need to make 2 little jumper cables to connect the Honda wires to the Datsun wires. There is a guy on ebay selling them for $80, I got mine from the junkyard for $10 each. I understand there is a bit of modification that needs to be done on a 280. Here's a link for those interested: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=83234

Used to have a street set of 6 spoke ZX wheels with Michelin 195/65/14's and a race set of 15 x 8 steel circle track wheels with 250/45/15 Yokohama A005 slicks. New brakes won't fit 14's so I got me a set of Kumho V700 225/50/15's for the steelies, probably going to buy a new lighter set of race wheels and tires. I used to drive to the autox on the street tires with 3 wheels in the hatch and one riding shotgun and switch them right there. Now I have a GMC 1500, so hopefully I'll be towing to the next race I go to...

All of the early 80's V8 Chrysler products use the same module IIRC. I remember my friend asking for a module from an 83 Dodge van with a 318. But it's been years since I've talked to him and I can't remember for sure.

The E12-80 module doesn't control the timing. The distributor that it comes on does, and it is SUPER easy to install. Basically it plugs right into your timing cover, then you jump the ballast resistor, and there are two wires. One goes to the + side of the coil, the other to the - side. That's it. If you're going to jump the ballast you'll need to upgrade the coil as well, but pretty much any aftermarket coil will work. You can usually get the ZX distributor with the module for ~$50 from a junkyard or ebay. Black widows... that's another story. I've tried Raid, carb and brake cleaner, nothing seems to slow those bitches down except a shoe. ;-)

I'd stick it on the dolly backwards too. Both the transmission bearings in the front and the front pinion bearing will be completely out of oil and running (although not under power) if you have the rear rolling.