jmortensen

I always thought strut tower bars were really ricey and didn't do much. Then someone convinced me to try them on my Z. Big difference. Really big difference. Triangulating to the firewall in the front is a very good idea. Foam in the frame is good, but it has to be the correct structural foam and once its in there you're pretty much not fixing that part of the car again from what I understand. So inject this stuff into a frame rail and then it starts to rust off the car, you're pretty well stuck.

The 930 has semi-trailing arm suspension so when you get out of the gas in a turn it toes out, basically it has hellacious lift-throttle oversteer. The early ones also had tremendous turbo lag followed by near instantaneous 100hp jump in power. So you'd get these dentists going around turns and punching the gas, hitting the boost, pooping their pants then getting out of the throttle, and then spinning off the road into trees, light poles, etc. FWIW when I was working as a Porsche mechanic the 930 was always called the 930. The 993 was the last of the air cooled 911s, which was followed by the 996. These are just examples, but every Porsche has its own "internal" model numbers and I don't recall them ever being used for marketing purposes. Kind of like S30, S130, Z31, Z32, etc. As far as driving a Z at those kinds of speeds on public roads I just hope he doesn't kill anyone. My advice is take it to the track. More fun and less chance of hurting an innocent bystander.

Your pilots are 40s??? I think I'm using something in the upper 60s. 67.5 I think. 40 is probably way too small unless you have a really tiny cam. I remember when I first installed mine it came with 50s and I kept on going bigger and bigger and bigger to the point where I thought I was doing something wrong. Then I installed a narrowband O2 in the exhaust and went bigger and bigger and bigger still til I finally got what I wanted.

1.5 turns, then do not adjust them anymore. Get the size pilot that runs well with 1.5 turns out. That's the advice I was given from those who know better than me. CCW makes it richer.

I had two sets, one 14x7 and one 15x7. The 15x7's were AT LEAST 25 lbs each, maybe more like 30. Heaviest freakin wheels ever. Must have been some lead/aluminum alloy or something. I like the mesh look but ended up trading to a friend who had the 6 spoke ZX wheels. She drove home and called me and said: "My car seems slower and the brakes don't work right." I had warned her, but she had to have 15s.

FWIW when I was watching the news last night they were saying that when they went through the Superdome they didn't find any bodies that had been beaten or stabbed as the reports had said during the crisis. It appears that some of the horrible things we heard just didn't happen.

Usually people replace both the master and slave cylinder together. It's a good idea. You can usually tell which one is bad by pulling back the rubber cover at the end of either cylinder. The one that is bad will leak brake fluid.

Uhh, this may be bad news... Here's the URL I was using: http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm Looks like it hasn't been renewed with NetSol. What that means I don't know. When I ordered from them I got the phone number from the website and just called and asked for what I wanted. Maybe someone else has it written down. It would be interesting to see if there is anyone answering the phone at all...

I ordered that part direct from Tabco about 3 months ago. They told me it would take 6 weeks and it showed up in 2. I suggest you just order it from them and cross your fingers.

Not as easy on a 240. Not hard, but not as easy. Remove access panel from RR fenderwell, pull wires off of the sender, use screwdriver and hammer to unscrew the retaining ring, pull the sender out. I think you can do it with the tank in the car. You obviously can't do it with a full tank though.

5 speed from 280Z or ZX bolts straight on. I like the close gearing in the ZX transmission but in order to take advantage you need lower differential gears.

Seems to be unanimous about the backing plates. Thanks. I'll tell him to buy the 240 wheel cylinders. Jon

All I can say is it's a good thing I'm not lactose intolerant.

I haven't been into Z drums in a long time, but my brother-in-law is trying to sort his car out. He has a 240 and he needs new wheel cylinders. IIRC the 240 has one piston in the wheel cylinder and the 280 has two pistons. Also it seems that the 280 wheel cylinder is about 1/2 the cost of the 240 wheel cylinder. So can the 280 cylinder just plug right in? Are there other differences in the brake shoes or spring arrangements that need to be modified or changed? I think the front calipers are identical so I wouldn't anticipate any changes in brake bias or any of that...

The only issue I have with this is the dial type regulator and it's placement. If you're running a return line than the return line restricted orifice is the "pressure regulator". I don't know if that would cause issues or not and it might work just as you stated. I would figure that it would be prefereable to have the regulator after the carbs and before the return line, and then it would need to be the other style that affects the fuel pressure before the regulator not after it.

Let me make sure I fully understand. There is a shifter, but no knob to tell you what the shift pattern is? And there isn't any oil in the transmission? Is that the problem? If that is the case just push in the clutch and shift through all the gears. You won't damage anything at all unless you try to drive it with no oil.

Sometimes you need to get that extra little bit at the end of the straightaway. If you set your limiter at 6500 you won't be able to continue accelerating once you hit the limiter. If you set it to the max safe piston speed then you can wring it out and there is no disadvantage. Shift points can be determined independently of the rev limiter.

One side is reverse threads. I believe it's the side you have the picture of. Just look at the threads real close and you should be able to see which is which.

The technical name for this is "Kitty Genovese Syndrome" and it comes from an unfortunate woman in NYC (surprise) who was stabbed going from her car to her home, then the attacker left for a while, then he came back and raped her again and stabbed her to death. There were over 30 witnesses who heard her screaming for help, but nobody called the police. I gotta go with Enrique on this one. There's only one person who's primary interest is YOU, and that's YOU. We all need to be responsible for ourselves, and waiting for the govt to do anything on your behalf is setting yourself up for disappointment.

I had basically that same build with a .490/290 cam and I could get to 7200 but it wasn't pulling real hard when it got there. I agree you should set your limiter there but you'll probably be losing time if you are shifting that high with SU's.

I don't see any pics posted, but Tokico Illuminas are the most common adjustable struts. They fit your description and require a small screwdriver to adjust them. They have settings from 1 to 5, and you can keep spinning the adjuster round and round and it's still only going 1 to 5. 1 is softest 5 is hardest. I drove mine on the street on 1 or 2, then upped it to 4 or 5 on the track. They work best with spring rates between 150 and 250 in/lb. If your adjusters are broken give Tokico a call. I had that problem and they just mailed me some new ones.

I just asked a similar question at hybridz about a grille, some bumpers, and taillights from a 240 I want to sell. One problem is that the value changes as time goes by. Also there is that whole US vs Australian market thing...

www.hybridz.org Hybrid Z is THE site for engine swaps.

Remember you asked what I think. Here it is: I think diverting money, resources, and manpower to a memorial service right now would be incredibly stupid and insensitive.

One more time. Synchros don't usually go out all at once. If it got notchy, then started to grind I'd say synchros. But if you drove it one day and it was fine and the next day it was grinding, probably not synchros. If the clutch doesn't disengage that would also cause it to grind. Does it grind into reverse when you're stopped? That would be a good test of the clutch not disengaging.