jmortensen

I think you should buy the 73, and then bid on my early carbs on ebay. ;-) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4555800082&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT

Thanks for the clarification. Never heard of that description before.

HLS30-04396 with a build date of 5/70. Can't say I ever had a problem with the float chambers, FWIW.

I'm getting rid of a few items that are taking up too much space. It's all going on ebay. I had to set up a new ebay account so my feedback is 0, but I think a few of the hybridz guys I've bought and sold from are here and can vouch for me. Auxilary bought my old roll bar, 280Zone sold me a 4.11 R200, Clifton sold me a set of calipers. Here are the auctions: 4 screw SU's http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4555800082&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ALC%3AMT%3A1 Toyota 4x4 Calipers (solid rotor): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4555800854&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ALC%3AMT%3A1 240Z NEW smog rail: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4555801766&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ALC%3AMT%3A1 240Z tail light panels: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4555802227&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ALC%3AMT%3A1 Help me keep my project rolling!!! Thanks! Jon

Practice every time you get in the car. Apex corners on the way to the grocery store. Heel and toe every downshift. Put a piece of tape at 12 o' clock on the steering wheel, and try to drive so that the tape moves as little as possible. The less input you have on the steering wheel the faster you'll go. Start consciously trying to get around turns while only moving the steering wheel once. If you turn in, then have to turn more in the middle of the turn, then your first movement on the steering wheel was probably too early or not sharp enough--or its a decreasing radius turn. Start double apexing multiple turns. If there are two left hand turns in front of you see if you can turn the wheel once and get all the way around both turns in the road. You don't have to break any laws to practice autox. When you go to the autox find the fastest driver in the fastest car you can and see if you can walk the course with him. Ask him to explain the line to you. Some places will let you ride along. See if he'll ride with you and point out your mistakes. Ask to ride with him for one run. Attend an autox school. My old club used to have 2 per year. Read books about driving (I liked "Driving Faster") or buy some autox videos. Watch road racing or better yet rally racing on TV and analyze the line the guys are driving.

Nevermind, that wasn't directed at me... Larry's link works fine for me, but I'm a member at hybridz.org.

I got part of that video uploaded at Hybridz. Wouldn't work here, I guess the limit is 2 megs. Here it is: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2832.

My L6 has displacement AND boost envy...

Thanks guys. I have the whole autox run from inside and outside. Maybe I'll post the whole 14 meg file since there doesn't appear to be a size limit here and it isn't on the other server it was on anymore. Dreco, yours just sounds ANGRY. Very nice. Is it really that raspy inside the car, or did you have the microphone right over the exhaust pipe while you did those runs? My specs at the time: L28 dished pistons/E31 with 280Z valves (whopping 8.5:1) .490/280 cam 44mm Mikunis were installed about a week earlier, not even close to tuned MSA crap header 2.5" mandrel exhaust $25 Super Turbo EDIT--tried to upload the whole 14 meg file, didn't work for some reason. You saw the best part anyway ;-)

Pending approval... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5121

Thanks for the compliment. Yours sounds better though. If you haven't already seen it preith has a pretty sweet setup with dual trapps exiting the same place as your megaphones.

So which SoCal tracks don't have db limits Ron? Have you thought about putting SuperTrapps in place of the megaphones? Here's mine with the old low compression engine: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=1562&cat=509&page=1

I bought a MillerMatic 135 to use on various projects for my Z, the biggest one being stitch welding the whole chassis. I had very little welding experience before I bought it. So far I can say this with some confidence: Forget about flux core. You'll need a gas shielded Mig for sheet metal. The reason I bought the Miller is because it has infinite amp and wire speed adjustments, which is very handy when welding thin sheet metal, cheaper units don't have the infinite adjustability, so you have to compensate for a wire speed that is too fast or too slow. Buy a better gas regulator than the welder comes with. My friends had warned me about the cheap regulators. Mine leaked the first time I used it. I've used similar welders to mine with pretty bad results, and I feel like the regulator was the difference. With my small amount of experience I really think that my welds look surprisingly good, and I blame that on the welder and regulator more than anything else. Only spend the money on the welder if you'll use it in the future on other projects. If you just want to install a floor pan take it to a shop and have them do it for you. I ended up spending about $900 on the welder, helmet, gloves, gas, regulator, misc other tools for the welder. But it was worth it for me as I've already sectioned my struts, stitch welded the back 1/2 of the car, fabbed up a rear toe adjuster mechanism, stitched the rear control arms, etc. I'm also going to stitch the front 1/2 of the car, install a roll bar, make a new fireplace screen for the house, fix my fence, etc.

If you chipped a ball or anything let me know and I'll mail you a couple.

I'm just going to answer your questions. I never saw the plug, so I don't know. My halfshafts didn't need U-joints, so I didn't get into the small parts on the end. The snap ring and washer are the parts that hold the balls and spacers in place. The stopper and the snap ring on the back hold the balls on the channels, and have nothing to do with taking the shaft apart. You're right, those parts are in the wrong order in the second pic. You might see if you can get one ball or spacer out at a time. The whole thing doesn't have to come out at once. I still think either the balls or the spacers are getting hung up in the groove that holds the brass washer and the snap ring at the top of the shaft. Good luck.

Pull harder. It's probably the balls getting hung up on the groove for the first circlip. I pulled apart 2 of them and had the same issue. I just stuck it in a vise and slid it in then pulled hard, kind of a slide hammer effect. Came right out and didn't do any damage to the balls either. FWIW the grease in mine looked BRAND spanking new, much better than I can say for the CV's I bought to replace the shafts. That grease looked like milkshake, I'm sure the PO drove through a puddle at some point. I didn't reassemble mine because I decided to go with the CV's and just left the job undone, but I understand it can be a PITA to get the balls and spacers back in.

It negates the need for the strap and the weight entirely.

If I was doing the clamshell one I'd go get an adjustable foot pad for a table or workbench from the hardware store. The rubber pad is bonded on and you don't need to take a bandsaw to an old motor mount. It also has a threaded stud that can be used to screw it to the clamshell piece. The main benefit I can see over the angle iron piece is that it never goes metal to metal so the sound transfer would be minimal. Also I think 1/8" plate would be plenty sufficient since that looks to be about the same size as the original diff mount itself. No need for 1/4" plate as described in the diagram I linked to. I did a much more difficult modification myself, then right after I was done I found that very easy mod and kicked myself in the @ss for not finding it first. This was the design that I copied: http://240z.jeromio.com/diffmount.html. You can see how much more work there is in this one (even with a proper hole saw).

Take a look at this. Cheap and easy to make, better than a solid diff mount, easier looking than what you've shown above. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2501&size=big&cat=1&page=1

I'd suggest a ZX 5 speed. Look at the 2nd to 3rd gear gap on the two 5 speeds to figure out why. I had figured with my 23.5" tires and 4.11 my top speed would be limited to 145 mph or so, so I think you should be OK to hit 110 with the 5 speed unless you put 13" rims with 20" tall tires on...

Call your local equipment rental place. I rented a 3/4" impact gun about a year ago. Only cost $15 IIRC, then I bought a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter. The adapter was more expensive than the rental. Similar situation, my impact wouldn't take off the crank pulley bolt of an engine I was working on.

If you like the big rear bar, then the LSD needs to be tighter. If you like no rear bar, then the LSD can be looser. I shimmed mine this winter but I haven't put the car back together yet so I can't say how it will work. I can tell you that I used to sell lots of diffs that were in the 150 to 200 lb range for big American cars, so I'm not too concerned about the 100 lbs breakaway. Mine was TIGHT when I tested it using two breaker bars when I first got it. I would guess it was at around 80 lbs. Trouble is it was dry. If you really want to check it you need to DISASSEMBLE the whole thing and relube the clutches, then put it all back together and you get ONE test. Clicker types aren't so good for this, a beam type is really necessary. I lubed mine and added a .004 shim and found breakaway was 14lbs. There was very little wear on the clutches. Similar results have been noted elsewhere too. I believe Nissan changed the clutches and decreased the preload. Some references: http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd2.asp http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=92629

It's been a long time since I've done them on the car, but you can loosen the nuts, then jack the car up. You'll need to disconnect the brake lines front and rear, and the halfshafts in the back, and the swaybar(s). Then you just pull loosen the three nuts that hold the strut hat on, and drop the whole suspension down so that the strut hangs out the fender. Then pull the springs off and put the hat back on and bolt it up again inside the car. Now you have the gland nut easily accessible and you can wrench on it really good (they're usually VERY tight). Then when you break them loose, disconnect again inside the car, pull the strut out and you can unscrew the gland nut and pull the insert out. If you're putting on a shorter aftermarket spring you don't need a spring compressor since they're loose with the hat on anyways. Well, that's fair enough. Let me put it a different way then: I wouldn't recommend that any of YOU do this, but that's how I do it every time.

I expected that response. Every time I mention this I get a bunch of flak. Don't worry, I won't take it personally... So just out of curiosity, did you do the math??? ;-)