Mark Schue

Closing out thread. Correct size for my 72 was M5 x .80.

Yea e-bay, $13.99 + 3.95 shipping for 10 bolts. I'm 92.23% sure the .20 ones from my the hardware store on the way home will do just fine.... Good luck finding your pan. I just got mine....they are getting expensive.

Thanks.

Does anyone know the correct bolt size for the splash pans? Thanks, Mark

My 72 Z sat for a few months and I now it won't keep running. I have traced it to a fuel issue. It will run until the float bowls empty. Have installed new fuel filter and fuel pump (stock mechanical). I can add fuel to float bowls and it will run till they are empty. My next test is to disconnect the inlet line to the fuel pump and pump from a can of fresh gas. I fully assume that will work and that the problem is a clogged fuel pick up. Can anyone provide tips, dos and don'ts for dropping the fuel tank? As straight forward as it looks? Anything unsual about the fuel tanks internal fuel pickup? Is it just a hole and exit tube or is there some sort of internal screen/filter?

Thanks guys. All Zs was one of the places I was thinking of. I'm not in huge need of anything. Was more thinking of spending an afternoon "antiquing" through stuff. I also thought there was a "Z Parts Barn" in Washington?

I've heard that there were 240z "junkyards" in Scapoose and Gresham. Does anyone have addresses?

After cementing the door weatherstip should I leave the doors open till the adhesive dries or should I close the doors? Does it even matter?

This was "Hella easy" to figure out. I went to the Hella website and downloaded their catalog. See page 35 and 36. http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_usa/ProductsServices/On_Line_Catalogs/Products_Accessories/Products_Accessories.jsp The 70477s are SAE/DOT Legal. The 70476s are for off road use. Catalog says 60/55 bulb standard for both. Difference is in the lens.

I have 70 477s.

Welcome to Oregon. Only 5 more months of rain.

I use NGK wires in my Z and Taylor wires in my race car. The engine builder for the race car dyno'd with various wires and found no difference. We went with Taylor cause they were good, affordable wires that held up to constantantly being removed and put back on. Went with NGK in the Z because the are also good and original. Some interesting reading on the Magnecor website. http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm Of course they are trying to convince people to buy their product.

My harness just showed up. It was just as everyone said. Very high quality. Done like I would have done it. Dave sent me an e-mail confirming receipt of my check...good manners on private internet transaction. Turn around time was quick, 1 week from the day I sent my check. Packaged well. So far I'm happy. Instructions appear to be clear. I intend to install it this weekend and will report back.

That is good news. I assumed incorrectly that the switch and key/lock were one part....in the same way the headlight switch is part of the stalk. Of course, being that easy it won't turn out to be the switch. Thanks again for everyones help!

Great idea. I have a friend coming over in a two weekend so we can install a new timing chain in his Z......so I'm pretty sure he would let me borrow. If it is the switch, I'm assuming there is no good way to fix the switch and I'm in the market for a new switch. Keying or replacing the door locks is not something I want to deal with. Is it easy to key an ignition switch to the door locks?

Thanks Carl! I'll somehow look into that. These tips really help narrow the search!

Cleaned contacts and changed the fuses out. Still a problem. The wipers, heater fan and rear defroster all seem to work when the key is turned to Accessory. Once the car is running they no longer work. More ideas?

Cashiers check in the mail tomorrow!

This morning driving to work I discover that both my windshield wipers and heater fan/blower are broke. As I leave work, I find they are again both magically fixed. I stop for gas, and I go to actually use the heater and find the are both broke again. I get home, car still running...both still broke. Shut off car, start it again, both now work. When they are "broke", headlights, dome light, turn signals all work and amp gauge reads normal. I know there are lots of threads on why each of these could be broke. But whatever this is, its something in common....but not in common with other electrics. Any ideas what? Thanks, Mark

I'm interested. Where in Oregon? Mark Hillsboro, OR

Start off with an easy one. Check to make sure your choke(s) is not stuck open. Check at the bottom of the carbs, not just looking at the position of the handle.

I had a ticking noise on my Z. I kept adjusting valves to no avail. Turned out the lash pads were worn. Milled them and adjusted the valves and no more ticking! Actually had a nice effect on the compression test!

Snap On finally has online ordering! www.snapon.com They make excellent stuff, but very spendy. Once you see the prices, you may consider buying a 3/8 Craftsman 10-75 AND a 1/2 25-150!

I'm not sure stainless is really a grade of bolt. An excellent book on this topic is Carroll Smith's "Nuts, Bolts, Fastners and Plumbing Handbook".

Agree with 2ManyZs! 2 additional thoughts. First: The drive size. 3/8 or 1/2. Most 1/2 stuff only goes as low as 20 or 24 tf/lbs. The 3/8 will usually have a shorter handle, which is good for getting in tight spots but less desirable for routine things like lug nuts. You really don't need the leverage for the lug nuts, but having a longer wrench is sure nice for such a common job. Second: If you get a torque wrench with such a large range, consider having its accuracy checked more often....