Salacious Crumb

You mentioned that there is a whirring noise that you can't quite place. When the alternator was checked, was the diode checked to make sure it is still good? If a diode goes bad, it can make a whining noise that is similar to a bad bearing. Check for AC voltage coming out of the alternator or at the battery terminals. If you measure more than .1 of AC voltage then the diode is almost certainly bad. Just a thought.....

Hey Guys, Does anyone know where I can find a blank manufacturer ignition key(double-sided) for a 72'-78' z? I've tried the going to the dealership but they said it is NLA.

Note in the first pic that the voltage regulator and the fuel filter clip have both been moved rearward. The VR has been turned vertically and mounted partially on top of the manufacturer's plate. The outline of the VR's original mounting position can still be seen in the pic. They were probably moved to make room for the device.

The dash board was given to me already removed so I don't know how well the harness worked before it was taken out. I examined it and I can't find any cut or spliced wires so my assumption is that it probably should have no major issues. I will sell it for $30 plus shipping (which I will have to check on).

I have a wiring harness for a 71 or 72 for behind the dash board and it has not been chopped up. I will sell it if you want it. Central Texas area.

I didn't say bleed the mc from a bleed screw on it. I said remove it and BENCH BLEED it. This is a standard practice when installing a brake or clutch mc and ensures that no air is trapped in the mc bore. It would simply be wise and methodical to perform this action in this situation since bleeding at slave was stated as not having worked.

You might want to remove the mc and bench bleed it before reistalling and bleeding the system at the slave.