waynekarnes

ACT NOW TO STOP THE CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS EXEMPTION REPEAL BILL! On Friday, August 27, the California Legislature approved a bill known as A.B. 2683. This bill would repeal the state`s current pro-hobbyist emissions-test exemption for vehicles 30 years old and older. It includes amendments that do not protect car collectors and is being opposed by SEMA and the major car organizations in California. This bill would require: * All vehicles with post-1975 model year insured as collector cars (driven only to parades and exhibitions), and at least 35-years old to continue in the Smog Check program for the life of the vehicle. * Revisions to the Smog Check testing regimen for these qualifying vehicles, including a tailpipe test, functional inspection of the fuel cap, and a visual inspection for fuel leaks. The vehicle would also be forced to comply with the exhaust emissions standards for the vehicle`s class and model year as prescribed by California regulators. CONTACT YOUR GOVERNOR TODAY! The bill is now in the hands of the Governor who can choose to veto it or sign it into law. We urge you to contact the Governor immediately to request his veto of A.B. 2683! He can be reached at: Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger State Capitol Building Sacramento, CA 95814 FAX: 916-445-4633 E-mail: www.govmail.ca.gov

mother's polishing compound, lots of patients. will make the plastic look good from the outside. smooth and shiny, like new my son paints warhammer characters from games work shop. they make or sell a red ink. i bought a couple cans of compressed air with a sprayer on it from eastwood ( rattle can, that i can put my own paint in ). haven't done it yet, was thinking that ink might work perfectly. most paint isn't transcent enough to use on a lens. but an ink ... that may be the ticket

right you are. the 280z has it under the master. i oughta remember what i posted earlier ... is my face red or what ??? the 79 zx was the first north american z car to have 4 wheel discs. i had one, with the GL package ...

let me misdirect you ... i think that the 280z used the same proportioning valve as the 240z. there are two at the local wreckers about 40 minutes from my house. no idea what they'd charge for that ... rat bastards don't tell you how much until you've pulled it and are at the counter money in hand ... i could pick one up for you ... i wouldn't know how to test it ... you tell me what to look for and i'd check it out for you ... unfortunately, someone has already cut the brake hoses and removed the backing plates and such off the rears of both cars. so ... no brake fluid to pump em up to check for leaks. i was told that they were engineered to last around 400k miles. what kills em is water .. people not following the datsun service guide lines and changing the brake fluid, every 30k. check and see if the rebuild kit is still available ... courtesy nisssan .. mention z club on line ... think that Carl B. has the 1st name of a counter person that is extra helpful to club members. drop me a message off the forum wkarnes @ pacbell.net let me know if you want me to take a ride to the wreckers. pay later me , no reason to worry about cash up front ... what ever the cost is and shipping ... wayne on craigslist ... maybe contact this guy, see if maybe he has the part ... i don't know him ... The Remains of "Galor of Z Parts" - $1 (daly city) Reply to: anon-39590740@craigslist.org Date: 2004-08-16, 9:58PM PDT 240z rear hatch w/ "Datsun 240z" Emblem - $65 Passenger side Quarter panel - $70 Passenger side rocker panel (Underneath door) - $50 240/260/280z vented hood complete w/ vents - $125 Passenger side 240z fender - $75 280z fenders - Will fit 240/260z - $80 each or $150 for pair 280z motor (1975-76) Compression tested 160psi all 6 cylinders - $150 280zx turbo hood complete with vents - $75 Passenger side 280zx fender - $50 280zx headlight buckets - $25/each Misc interior parts - $10-35 clutch pedal assembly (For those who want to convert auto to manual) - $40 z steering wheels w/ horn pad - $30/each Slotted mag wheels in great condition - $300 72 z parts/bucket driver w/ 2.4L, 5 speed trans, and slotted mags - $700 Prices are negotiable. maybe this guy too ... Reply to: anon-38985088@craigslist.org Date: 2004-08-10, 3:26PM PDT Hi i will give you guys a very detailed description of this car. i purchased my 1977 280z last september for 300 dollars. the frame is in very good shape and has very minor rusts spots on the rear hatch and under the passanger door. the car was purchased from the original owner. since then i have replaced the MAS as well as the relay that supplied power to the fuel pump. the fuel pump was frozen and was also replaced. the car was able to start before the fuel pump was installed on starter fluid and the engine sounded in good conditoin. after the fuel pump was installed the car ran on new gas (i drained out the old stuff) but only ran for a few minutes before the fuel lines bursted. the fuel lines bursted due to old age. i have since then gone out and gotten a alluminium fuel rail off a 280zx. i have not installed it yet but it is included with the car. also included are enough parts to due a major tune up. i have already replaced the spark plugs, airfilter, and oil filter. i will include coolant, transmission and differential fluid, some brake fluid, radiator flush cleaner, rotor and cap, even spare in good condition power antenna. the car is a 4 speed. and will also come with 3 sets of extra rims. this is a 2 seater not a 2+2. with the price of all the parts and the cost of trouble shotting all teh problems i have spent roughly 1500 dollars. this car shoudl run smoothly after the fuel rail is on. i simply dont have the ambition nor the means to finish this project. only serious inquires please E-mail me or call me at (650) 307-2300 http://images.snapfish.com/33%3A%3C8%3A8%3B23232%7Ffp4%3Enu%3D3243%3E7%3A3%3E2%3B4%3EWSNRCG%3D323266%3B7789%3A5nu0mrj http://images.snapfish.com/33%3A%3C8%3A8%3B23232%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E2334%3D894%3D3%3A5%3DXROQDF%3E232357%3A86%3C7%3C%3Bot1lsi http://images.snapfish.com/33%3A%3C8%3A8%3B23232%7Ffp64%3Dot%3E2334%3D894%3D3%3A5%3DXROQDF%3E232357%3A86%3C349ot1lsi http://images.snapfish.com/33%3A%3C8%3A8%3B23232%7Ffp64%3Dot%3E2334%3D894%3D3%3A5%3DXROQDF%3E232357%3A86%3C%3B%3C8ot1lsi http://images.snapfish.com/33%3A%3C8%3A8%3B23232%7Ffp47%3Dot%3E2334%3D894%3D3%3A5%3DXROQDF%3E232357%3A8734%3C6ot1lsi http://images.snapfish.com/33%3A%3C8%3A8%3B23232%7Ffp4%3Enu%3D3243%3E7%3A3%3E2%3B4%3EWSNRCG%3D323266%3B77%3A%3B59nu0mrj i don't know either of these guys ... just an advertisement on local craigslist wayne

i agree ! that shipping estimator, when correct info is fed into it, is pretty accurate. i know i appreciate seeing it associated with an item i am bidding on. gives me a better idea of what i an actually going to end up paying.

the way around the shipping calculator is ... the seller puts the size, small med large or extra large, and weight of the package. this gives an estimate. by pumping up the size and the weight, the seller gets more for shipping than the actual shipping costs. but as you suggest, it is going to be closer to the actual shipping costs, than the 4 to 8 dollar profits that some sellers make on shipping charges. in my case, i under estimated the size of the boxes when i shipped those 6 spoke wheels i sold ( the guide included was wrong ), cost me 40 bucks more than my estimated shipping cost. buyer refused to make up the difference. ended up selling em for less than i paid for em. if the shipping had been correct, i'd a broke even, and that was all i wanted. oh well ...

i bought a few items from redat he advertises nissan parts, they are instead items that will work, but are not the correct nissan parts ( at least what he sent me ). nissan dealership presented me the same rivets. i had the dealer special order rivets for my 72, when they arrived, the special order rivets have the correct post in the middle. the rivets sold by redat are press in rivets, no center post, same as what the nissan dealer had in stock. he doesn't list his shipping costs until after the sell, which is understandable, when one doesn't know when and where ( i sell things on ebay ), however as has been suggested, he added over half the cost of my items for shipping. items were packaged in a left over box ( i'm all for recycling that's not an issue ), the issue is he charged me 6 bucks and change for shipping. items that cost him a buck 34 to ship. no where does he say that he charges for handling. i would not have bid, had i known there was going to be a 4 dollar surcharge. when i bought the items, i figure ... i ship stuff, 2 bucks 50 at tops, $3 if he uses one of those jiffy bags from the post office. i was told, against california law to charge handling and not state it as such. items arrive, wrong interior rivets, after assuring me that they were the correct ones. the firewall heater grommets will work, but they are not right for a restoration. shipping was fast, he is extremely courteous, and responded to every e mail. i think he doesn't know his market, has universal parts that work for several cars and makes. probably figures he is doing buyers a favor by putting these parts out there. kinda like the tools at the dollar store, might work in a pinch. i don't believe he is a rip off artist. i've dealt with rip off artists. i think he is just ignorant of the quality and intended purpose of what he is selling. i have no problem with anyone selling a universal part, that will function properly for my intended purpose. the issue is, i believed that i was buying the stock 1972 parts, not universal parts that will work. plus, not knowing they were universal parts, i bid as if i were purchasing either authentic reproductions, or period correct genuine nissan parts. he should state that while not exact, they will work, instead of inferring the parts are an exact replacement. all that said, i suggest if looking for quality restoration parts, don't buy from redat. on the other hand, if your heap is in need of some parts and there are no z's in the wreckers near you, and you can deal with used parts, or universal parts, where function is more important than correctness, something to get you on the road, like those tools at the dollar store, then go ahead and deal with him. but don't pay premium dollars for dollar store parts. pass the word. wayne oh, i tried to leave that info the feedback i left.

on the proportioning valve issue, i stand corrected. appears i was misinformed. had been told by factory trained mechanics that they were residual valves. i stand by the rest of the information regarding rear drums vs. rear discs. in the brake section of the 1973 nissan factory service manual ... page br-2 1973 factory service manual, 9th line down ... moreover, the brake system is equipped with a proportioning valve to prevent skid due to early rear wheel locking. page br-5, header "brake line", in addition, the rear wheel side circuit is equipped with the proportioning valve ... in the 1973 fsm, the proportioning valve is referred to as the NP valve, it is located under or near the master brake cylinder, ahead of the distribution block ( where the brake tubes/lines split to go to front brakes and rear brakes ). see figure br-7 on page br-5 there is no mention, nor diagram in the 73 manual regarding proportioning valves at the rear of the z ... i have not seen this NP valve on my 72 z, it has valves at the rear of the car. unfortunately, i can't seem to locate my 72 fsm. as far as newer z cars in the 30 series , according to the 1973 factory service manual, appears that 73 and later z cars have NP valves. it works in conjunction with a warning light that comes on and warns the driver when there is an incorrect difference in pressure between the front and rear brakes. an unbalance of pressure could cause the rear brakes to lock prematurely. was this NP valve added late in the 73 year ? the haynes manual refers to the rear valves as pressure regulating valves ... i take that to mean proportioning valves and haynes indicates that they are located at the rear of z. according to haynes the NP valve wasn't used on the 240z, only on the 260 and 280z cars. the factory manual shows em on the 73 models. strange. i don't remember seeing one on my old 73 z either. it had valves in the rear ... my factory manual has a foreward saying, manual to assist dealers in servicing the 1973 240z. so, for sure, that and the cover of my fsm, make it a 73 manual. i know that when i 1st started thinking of adding 280zx rear disc brakes to my last 72 240z, back around 7 or 8 years ago, i was told to remove the residual valves, as they would maintain a 10 lb pressure on the discs and the rear brakes would be seized, the 2nd time i pushed on the brake pedal. it was suggested, that i use the true proportioning valves from the 280zx, or add an inline proportioning valve ahead of the split of the rear brake lines. according to the f s manual, the residual valve ( check valve ) is located in the master cylinder and the devices at the rear of the car are indeed a drum brake proportioning valves. i do know that if one should use the early master cylinder with rear disc brakes, the check valve that must be removed, or the rear calipers will be locked up, the 2nd time you press the brake pedal. i bow and admit my mistake ... residual valve ( check valve ) is in the master cylinder. the rear valves are indeed drum brake proportioning valves. i went back over some of my old info from, the been there done that people, that have done the disc brake swap. some of them refer to the rear devices as residual valves. i didn't find any info indicating that any of them attempted to use the 240z drum brake proportioning valves. they either gutted em and used a firewall mounted proportioning valve or replaced the rear valves with those from a 280zx. sorry for any confusion ! again, it is suggested the drum brake proportioning valves be removed when doing a rear disc conversion. to be replaced with a disc brake proportioning valves or the drum brake proportioning valves be gutted and an inline proportioning valve used. your choice, change to the zx master, or keep the 240 master if using the 240z master, remove the check valve. in the factory manual it gives info on how to test to see if the rear proportioning valve is working. it involves a large parking lot or empty stretch of road and a few panic stops on dry pavement, from 30 mph. says rears should lock at same time as fronts or fronts a few seconds ahead of the rear. the rears should never lock before the front. this test should be done every 24,000 miles. be sure to have the manual in your z, to show the officer that is curious as to what you are doing. :-) wayne

the residual valve maintains a bit of pressure on the rear wheel cylinders, so that the brake shoes don't have as far to travel. i am not exactly sure how to explain it ... it sounds wrong ... but it is correct. the shoes are not engaged, just anxiously sitting waiting on the side lines to get into the game. here i borrowed this from a web site ... might do a better job of explaining than i did. and that issue of Grass Roots Motor Sports (man, i can't exagerate how great a magazine it is ... browse an issue at barnes and nobles ) anyway the info on p valves is in the may 2004 issue. here's what i borrowed ... hope this helps !!! wayne from the Mp brake web site ... What does a proportioning valve do? A proportioning valve is used in the rear to decrease the rate of pressure rise to the drums relative to the pedal force as weight is shifted to the front during braking. This prevents the rear from locking up under hard braking conditions. What are the symptoms of a bad proportioning valve? If your prop valve has gone bad your rear wheels will lock up easily, especially on wet surfaces. What does a metering valve do? A metering valve or "hold off valve" is used in the disc portion of a disc/drum system to hold off the application of the front discs slightly allowing the slower reacting rears to catch up. This provides rear stability on wet surfaces and reduces excessive pad wear. What are the symptoms of a bad metering valve? Your car will nose dive and the front pads will wear too fast. What does a residual valve do? There are two different uses for residual valves. The 10 lb valve is used to hold a residual pressure to the drum brakes to keep the shoes out close to the drums giving a higher firmer pedal. The 2 lb valve is used in the disc when the master cylinder is lower than the calipers to prevent back siphoning of the fluid from the master. What are the symptoms of a bad residual valve? The brakes will be very spongy and you will need to pump the pedal to get good brakes. What is a combination valve? A combination valve incorporates metering and proportioning into one valve providing all necessary valving for disc/drum systems. See below Should I use an adjustable proportioning valve? Not if you can help it. The adjustable valve will only provide the proportioning function and not the metering that is needed. VALVING VALVE TYPE DESCRIPTION METERING The metering or hold off valve is used in the brake system to better balance the front to rear brakes. The valve does not allow the pressure to rise at the front disc brakes until the pressure at the rear drums has risen sufficiently to overcome the brake shoe springs. At this point the valve opens to allow full pressure to build at the front brakes. PROPORTIONING The proportioning valve modulates the pressure to the rear brakes. The modulation is necessary to minimize rear wheel lock up found in heavy braking and to compensate for the differences in braking conditions in front disc / rear drum systems. As pressure is applied to the system full pressure is allowed to the rear drums up to a certain point. Beyond that point the pressure to the rear is reduced preventing rear brake lock up. RESIDUAL There are two different residual valves. A ten pound residual valve will maintain a line pressure to the rear to keep the drum brake shoes out close to the drums giving a higher firmer pedal. Without a ten pound residual pressure to the rear you will experience a spongy pedal. A two pound residual valve is required whenever the master cylinder is lower than the calipers to prevent backflow of fluid from the calipers to the master. COMBINATION A combination valve incorporates metering and proportioning into one valve. These are available for disc/drum or drum/drum systems. ADJUSTABLE PROP VALVE The adjustable proportioning valve is used when you have a special rear condition that requires higher or lower pressure than a normal condition. You should always use a metering valve to the front when using the adjustable

the rear valve on the 240z is not a proportioning valve. it is a residual valve, retains a bit of pressure on the rear brake wheel cylinders ( rwc ). means, rear brake cylinders don't require a large amount of pressure to engage ( kinda like booster ). a proportioning valve allows one to balance the rear brakes to the front. the front brakes need to engage way before the rears ( too much rear brake bias, and the arse end of the car is going to be coming around the front ). datsun engineers did a pretty good job of balancing the rear braking to the front brakes, by the size of the rear shoes, size of the drums, the size of the rotors, pads and the pressure exerted from the master cylinder. they did not use a proportioning valve. again, the residual valve on the 240z is not a proportioning valve. remember, when you brake, weight shifts forwards, rear of the car becomes lighter. less tire contact on the road, hit those brakes, too much brake at the rear, tires get loose, start skipping and sliding. with a proportioning valve, you may change the bias. more brake on the front, less on the rear, of if you like, more on the rear less in front. brakes !!! energy !!! by using the brakes we are converting kinetic energy into thermal energy. oddly enough, the quicker you can get your brakes hot, the quicker you will stop. that said, the heat from braking, must be shunted off. the shoes, drums, pads, rotors, must be brought back within a range, where they can absorb more heat. when they reach a point where they can't get rid of the heat quicker than they absorbing it, the car won't stop. what we need is a way to transfer the heat away from he braking components as quickly as possible. disc brakes do this better than drum brakes. thus, they stop a car quicker than drum brakes. are disc brakes necessary on the rear of a 240z ? read on ... the 240z is a fairly light car. many of the racers use just the stock braking components with a better material for the shoes and pads. they make sure that all these components are at their best. they flush the fluid after each race, clean cool brake fluid. hot brake fluid absorbs water. water compresses at a different rate than brake fluid. makes the brakes feels spongy, brakes don't work as well. if the fluid boils, big trouble, steam doesn't compress well in a brake system. water turns to steam quicker than brake fluid. change the fluid, dump the water. back to components ... if i remember correctly, something like 70% of the braking is done by the front. this is the reason, rear discs on the 240z are really wasted as far as street performance rear brakes. a good set of finned drums dissipate the heat better than non finned drums, an excellent cost effective upgrade. plus you get rid of some unsprung weight as well. the finned drums get rid of the heat in a hurry and get you stopped. why not discs on the rear ??? don't need em, are over kill. remember the part about heat exchange ? well, with the front doing the majority of the work. on the z car, there's not much heat exchanging going on in rear. the rear can only work so hard. everytime you stop, the front gets heavier and the rear lighter. lighter in the rear, means less energy to convert into heat. less heat means less to cool. why disc brakes ? because they cool faster, thus you stop faster . but ... if the drum brakes cool as fast as the discs ( under the same conditions ), there is little or no advantage ( as far as stopping ) to using discs over drums. heat exchange is roughly the same. analogy ... you haul a quarter ton of dirt in a half ton truck. easily gets the job done. neighbor has a 5 ton truck. can you haul your 1/4 ton of dirt in the 5 ton truck ? sure. do you need to ? no. is it over kill ? yes. does it look cooler ? sure it does. if your rear drums in good condition, they do a very good job of turning kinetic energy into thermal energy. they are also good at transferring that thermal energy into the air and cooling back down, maintaining a balance of energy transfer that allows the 240z to stop the way it should. on the street and for most track racing, disc brakes on the rear of a 240z are over kill, the average driver will not notice the difference in performance. most people upgrade the fronts and add the rear discs at the same time, so for them, yes they notice an improvement. i'd guess, 98% from the front and 2% from the rear. the 280zx got rear discs, mainly as a keeping up with the Jones thing. not because it needed em. most high performance cars have 4 wheel discs. most of the high performance cars are bloated pigs, when compared to the weight of a 240z. when braking, they still have a lot of weight on the rear wheels. with all that weight, the discs do a better job of converting kinetic energy into heat and cooling back down, than a set of drum brakes would. the 240z doesn't have a fat arse to haul down, thus doesn't need rear discs. am i saying don't install rear discs ??? no way !!! your car, you do as you wish. ( remember SAFETY !!! do it correctly. ). does a 240z need rear discs ? no, it doesn't. will it improve your overall braking ? marginally, but you probably won't notice. money is better spent on front brake upgrades, stainless steel brake hoses, better pads, finned aluminum drums and better shoes. remember, front brakes do most of the work. make them work better, car stops better. that said ... i plan on discs on the rear of my 240z. why ? easier to work on, and the cool factor. i want em, bought em from a fellow member, they are in a box in the garage. one of my some day projects. what am i running now ??? early toyota 4 runner calipers, on stock nonvented rotors. in the rear ? finned aluminum drums, with nismo racing green shoes. all new wheel cylinders, master cylinder, clean new dot 3 brake fluid. stops pretty good. doubt that i will see any improvement, once i swap the rear drums for discs. i have beat on a few doors before deciding how i wanted to go about this. most of the time, you can use the original master cylinder. you need to remove a check valve from the drum brake master cylinder ( see repair manual ) if you want to use it. you can install a proportioning valve ahead of the point where the brake line splits to each rear wheel. you can then gut the residual valves ( located at rear of the car, usually ahead of the rear axle ) or remove em. i have been told ( and i think i am going to try this myself ), that you can remove the factory proportioning valves from the 79 thru 81 ( may be thru 83 ) 280zx and use them in place of the 240z residual valves. this would be much easier than installing and adjusting a proportioning valve. last month, or the month before, grass roots racing magazine had a great 4 or 5 page article on brakes and the use of proportioning valves. suggest it as a read before diving into this project. again, do we need rear discs to improve braking ... No ! the z is too light a car, to truly benefit from em, and the arse end gets really light when braking, finned aluminum drums, good brake shoes, wheel cylinders,and clean dry air free, brake fluid works just fine at stopping the z. will upgrading the front brakes improve a z car's stopping power ? Yes indeed !!! do you need to ? No, the factory discs are almost more than one needs for the average street driven 240z. if you have increased horsepower, by more than half ? then maybe you should think about upgrading the front. just want better brakes ? upgrade the front before adding rear discs. that is the best performance improvement for the money spent. want rear disc brakes ? go for it ! need em ? nope, most likely, you don't. again spend your money anyway you want. your car, do as you wish. please be safe, pay attention to details, do it right. want to hear from you again. time for me to get off my soap box. sorry for being so long winded. wayne

back around 76, still living at home, i had a 31 chevy pick up. a very driveable, dependable project. my interests moved to a 65 gto, so the truck sat in my parent's driveway. my mom filled the bed up with dirt and planted strawberries in it. i didn't get to drive the truck, until the end of the season.

Ash, sorry for the bad news, but maybe it saved you some time ;-) if they are late doors, they oughta work. there are a pair of 280 doors on e bay and i think over at hybridz.org, a guy is parting out a 280z. of course location is an issue. if close enough, maybe, make a mini vacation out of picking em up ??? good luck, wayne

Ash, you noticed the difference, and that's what makes em not inter change ... 69 to 73 240 z ( the american version ), doors are the same. early 260 z doors will work on the 69 thru 73 240z. the later, big bumper 260z doors will not work on the earlier years. federal safety requirements changed, side impact, and doors staying closed ( secured ) in the event of an accident, those requirements were increased. the doors on the later 260z cars were changed. so ... any door, 1969 thru 1973, is interchangeable, you can also include the early small bumper 260. but only for those model years. late 74 260 thru 1978 280z doors interchange. again, only for those years. late 74 thru 78 doors will not work on any 240z. 69 through early 74 doors will not work on any 280z. have i confused you ??? wayne

Big rear brake conversion 240sx 4 x 4 1/2 lugs 79-81 280zx master 15/16 89-98 240sx calipers and hangers 84-85 300zx rear rotors 4x4 1/2 lug pattern 86-80 FWD maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets both bored, cut and welded with correct offset. rear axles must be removed to install brackets make brake cable extenders Small rear brake conversion 79-81 280zx master 15/16 82-53 280zx rear calipers and hangers 82-83 280zx rear rotors 86-89 FWD maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets ... cut and welded with correct off set OR 80-84 nissan 810, maxima sedan rear brackets that have floating dust shield rear axle must be removed to install bracket Big rear brake conversion 280zx 79-81 280zx master 15/16 82-83 280zx calipers and hangers 84-85 300zx rear rotors 4 x 4 1/2 lugs 86-89 FWD maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets ... bored cut and welded with correct off set bone stock small rear brake conversion Maxima 4x4 1/2 lugs 79-81 280zx master 15/16 79-81 280zx rear calipers and hangers 79-81 280zx rotors 4x4 1/2 lugs 80-84 810, maxima sedan rear brackets that have screw on dust shields rear axles must be pulled on all to install brackets from brokebolt ... he allowed me to save it and repost it ... Mike is a nice guy. went out of his way to make sure that i got all the right info to make my decision. hope this info helps wayne

Carl, you are absolutely correct, the front konig center caps will not work on the front. i haven't yet investigated what might fit. while the wheels still show up on the konig web site, they were discontinued, roughly 2 years ago. i contacted the company, e-mail. reply from company, indicated, they keep the discontinued wheels on the web site to see, if any interest, if enough interest, they consider making the wheels again. i have a set on my 72. 14X7 front and rear, silver grey. bought em from Gabriel. can't say enough nice things about his sales and service. i think i had the wheels, before my check cleared his bank. i am running 225/60/14 on rear and 215/60/14 on the front. with the 14X7 wheels and the offset, this combo, looks great, tires look much wider than they are. the stance is great. pix should be in my gallery. wayne

i'm impressed ... need to repair mine in the same place. i have a panel from british victoria. but, 1st i need to learn to weld. i need to fix the dog legs as well, have those repair panels as well. plus 2 rocker panels, just incase the dog leg damage is more than i suspect. thanks for the pix ...